If you are reading this then it is probably at least Friday, if not Saturday or Sunday. My phone no longer wants to “connect to the data network”. Apologies. You probably all think I have been murdered if you aren’t used to using the Spot tracker link just […]
I will have to spend the rest of today reflecting carefully upon my visit to Benevento, Massimo, his ideas, his promises and his actions. It was an “interesting” experience to have spent 48 hours with him. The inverted commas say much. For the time being I’ll stick to […]
Massimo has a flat next to his parents’ flat and his parents live in his house somewhere else. So… while Massimo was in his parents’ flat, I was next door in his flat. Does that make sense? Anyway, once I had got myself up and out of the […]
Apollosa is a village in the hills somewhere near Benevento and the place where Massimo lives. I’m sitting in the small square just beneath the church watching the world go by…. The clock is striking 11…. people are chatting outside the bar and small supermarket…. old blokes have […]
It is now past 1am and I am so glad that later today I have a day off! The last two days cycling have been two of the most tiring so far; long, long days in the saddle towards the end of a long, long journey… In retrospect […]
I’ll explain later, but I have arrived safe and sound in Benevento and now at a concert in this village 30 kilometres east of the town.
My energy is fading… I’ve paused at this ESSO service station and just consumed one of those hypercritically ironic food-drink combinations: a Magnum ice-cream and a Diet Coke. I am content for a few moments to just stare at those mountains; aren’t they magnificent? Sorry about the awning; […]
This is yet another town built around a long straight road; it seems to be the way to do it in this area. I’ve never been to South America but a lot of the places have the feel of towns you imagine exist down there. The long straight […]
I think the building up there is the Abbey of Montecassino but I’m not really up for the climb so will never find out for sure. The Rough Guide doesn’t sing the praises of the place so I’ll content myself with the town of Cassino itself here at […]
Another new experience tonight; spending an evening on a working farm. Obviously my involvement in the farm is fleeting to say the least; the most I contributed was helping with the washing up. The place is run by guy called Antonello who has lived here all his life. […]
Massimo’s friend Tomasso arrived within minutes of me sending the previous message and escorted me to the farm just outside the town itself. Here is a picture of the main house Here are the statistics for Rome to Sora – another long day! Cycling time: 8 hrs 7 […]
Waiting at the railway station in Sora for Tomasso…. No sign of him yet. Due to meet at 6pm and it’s now nearly 6.30pm. I went for a beer in the bar in the picture and there was a punch up! Tables turned over, glasses smashed on the […]
Fiuggi is a nice find. Even nicer when it’s the place you manage to get your iPhone working again. It also thinks big; I have just had a couple of sandwiches (they were sandwiches, not panini, complete with the crusts removed!) in the Gran Caffè Martini and just […]
I left Rome early today; it made sense to do so as Marcello was off to work and with some hot weather finally being promised, I need to maximise the amount of time spent cycling when it is a little bit cooler. And it was certainly nice and […]
I set off exactly four weeks ago today and with any luck, I should be in Brindisi this time next Sunday meaning I will have completed the entire route from Reading to Brindisi about two days ahead of schedule. The plan for the coming week is as follows; […]
The view from the very top of the Vittorio Emanuele monument is amazing; here is the Coliseum and the hills beyond… which turn my thoughts to cycling south on the morning. I’ll start making my way back to Marcello’s flat soon to plan. Vittorio is a good name […]
If you can remember that far back, when I was in Luxembourg a few weeks ago, I visited an excellent museum all about the history of the city itself. It was well-presented, informative, interesting and told a complete picture that enabled me later, when wandering around the town, […]
It’s easier to get a better picture of the crowd than it is the fountain itself. So that’s what you’ve got I’m afraid. I walked from Marcello’s flat which is in the area behind the main railway station into the centre. It took me about half an hour; […]
9am. Need to go off and explore!
Here is Marcello. Great guy. He lives in this flat just to the east of the centre of Rome with his girlfriend and dog, Ambra. His girlfriend is away this weekend so it was Marcello, myself and the dog who had “hot” chicken curry tonight. Well, the dog […]
You know that I’m not on a pilgrimage but it was the first thing I bumped into… The statistics; Cycling time: 7 hrs 17 mins 44 secs Distance: 134.5 kms Average speed: 18.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: 50.6 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,601.9 kms Now off along the cobbles […]
As you can see it has a big castle! It’s a bit similar to Bolsena in that it sits next to and gives its name to a lake. Apart from that, can’t really tell you that much about it. I probably never will as it is mere curiosity […]
It is cold. There is constant drizzle. The wind is hell. All I am doing is putting my head down and watching tarmac to make sure I avoid the holes in the road. No fun whatsoever. Not one bit.
This picture sums up the glamour of this morning’s ride so far. I re-oiled the chain after yesterday’s drenching but still had a very annoying squeak on the back wheel. I put it down to the lubrication in the wheel itself being washed away along with the chain […]
It’s Marcello in Rome! Not Claudio…. Mi scusi. Another error on my part; today is Saturday; I’ve been a day behind all this week. This cycling lark is making me befuddled 🙂
Clearly not true; I could turn back and head to the UK but the one that I will be continuing on today – the SS2 – certainly does. And an important milestone en route to Brindisi. Most people stop their walk or cycle in the Italian capital so, […]
We are no longer in Tuscany but I shan’t quibble about the name; there is Peking Palace in Reading and dozens of Aberdeen Steakhouses in London. I only have half a clock to analyse tonight as from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock there is a wall. So, apart […]
Nearly forgot! Cycling time: 6 hrs 23 mins 6 secs Distance: 121.69 kms Average speed: 19.0 kms/hr Maximum speed: 51.2 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,466.6 kms
What an amazing little place! The storm clouds have disappeared and the view from here on the terrace of the castle – the last thing I was expecting – is stunning. After the 2,50€ beverage, I crossed over to the tourist office and enquired about budget accommodation. They […]
You are looking at one of the best that I have found so far on my Italian odyssey; a large (40cl) beer for 2,50€. Bloody amazing. They clearly saw me coming, drenched and identified me as a potential customer who needed cheering up with a cheap drink. I […]
The name of the town is very appropriate. When I left San Quirico d’Orcia the rain had almost stopped. It seemed the passing storm had indeed passed. Storms move faster than cyclists so although it was heading in the same direction as me, I thought we were in […]
90 degrees to the left there is a biblical storm the likes of which I have only ever seen in films with Charlton Heston; black sky, thunder, lightening, frogs and errr… a nun just walking past with an umbrella. I timed my arrival in San Quirico d’Orcia well […]
Mid morning coffee in this beautiful out-of-way (well not really as it’s on the main road to Rome) village 25 kilometres south of Siena. Nice & quiet however; a world away from Siena and the excitement of the Palio. And the two 85 cent coffees certainly hit the […]
As per your combined recommendations, I am now the proud owner of two cans of Autan and a packet of antihistamine tablets! Thank you. As for my travels, well, Siena wasn’t working for me which is a pity as I would have loved to have had a proper […]
Thanks for all the comments to the previous post; Autan it is; I shall stop st the first pharmacy I see. Off to Siena for a bit and then south to the Lago di Bolsena and beyond….
For the first time tonight I’m feeling bit depressed. 🙁 Well, not really depressed, just a mixture of feeling sorry for myself; all the bites that I have suffered and which are making me feel uncomfortable for much of the time, especially when I am not cycling and […]
Cycling time: 5 hrs 57 mins 19 secs Distance: 116.88 kms Average speed: 19.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 47.3 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,344.8 kms
Another cycle traveller, Tricia Graham, you may want to follow at the following website; http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/ambertrail
In the last five kilometres, the distance to Siena following the SR2 has been; firstly 18.5 kms, then 24 kms, then 19 kms and look! It’s back up to 25 kms!! Is there a game I’m missing out on here? The picture was taken in Castellina Scalo by […]
I arrived in Castelfiorentino at precisely 12 noon; the clock was striking as I cycled into what appeared to be a fairly modern place. With a name like Castelfiorentino, I suppose I could have imagined something similar to what I imagined for Montopoli in Val d’Arno earlier. I […]
When I plugged Pisa and Siena into Via Michelin (bike option) at the campsite last night – there was a desktop computer available for campers – it came up with the route I’m now following. Montopoli In Val d’Arno immediately stood out as an potentially interesting place simply […]
When I look at the map, Pisa sits in a lowland area with lots of blue lines indicating both natural and man-made waterways. The tower is / was sinking into the swamp / bog upon which Pisa is built. I can only hope that this means that as […]
There are three people (that I know of) who have just or are about to start cycling kind of the same route as me. Bill is cycling from Orkney to Rome, Chris is cycling from Brussels to Kephalonia, and Sue is cycling from the Austrian Tyrol to Christchurch […]
Good phone reception up here. I can’t get out of my mind the tower in Pavia that collapsed without warning…
My guide books says that this is a place you could just spend hours wandering around, and that’s exactly what I have spent the morning doing. The picture here is actually a very untypical view of the city; most streets are long, thin and windy interrupted with the […]
Just bought this bike for next year’s trip. Need three people to join me. Any takers?
“Greg, do you wanna go up this thing?” someone just shouted. It’s not even 9 o’clock and the Campo dei Miracoli is already heaving. It is a beautiful open area; I just dread to think what it will be like later in the day. Lots of people are […]
..which I am enjoying from the Wi-Fi zone next to the reception. Any requests?
I have to say, this is one of the best equipped campsites so far on the Eurovelo 5. You can see in the picture that there are nets above the tents to keep things cool in the sun (not sure how they would cope with the rain; hope […]
Cycling time: 7 hrs 3 mins 47 secs Distance: 150.57 kms (Is that a record? How many did I do en route to Luxembourg?) Average: 21.3 kms/hr Maximum speed: 49.4 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,227.8 kms If those figures don’t deserve this cheese, I don’t know what does. […]
Today certainly put the ‘cycling’ into ‘cycling holiday’. 7 hours in the saddle! But I have arrived at my intended destination and am looking forward to a day off tomorrow in Lucca and Pisa itself. I may even try and use the train to give me a real […]
Three hours predominantly downhill and 70 kilometres after leaving the Hobbits in their village, we arrive with all our spokes in tact at the sea. My aspiration yesterday of being able to spot the Mediterranean by the end of the day was on the assumption that you might […]
You’ll never believe what that woman is selling…
Only half the height of the St. Gotthard but still a cracking view. And nobody selling sausages or stuffed animals!
To the sea! If all goes well I should see the sea today and poke my toes into it. This is Bercato by the way; quite a large place when you consider where it is. Just had foccacia for breakfast (have you set fire to that yet David? […]
Just spent a few minutes replying to people via http://www.eurovelo5.com and Facebook; check as I may have replied to you. Thanks for everyone’s continued supportive messages and useful advice and guidance!
Here are the statistics for the day; Cycling time: 5 hrs 20 mins 52 secs Distance: 99.75 kms Average speed: 18.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 40.9 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,076.9 kms When I got to 2,000 kilometres I was hoping to take a picture similar to when I […]
Who needs an expensive film set in New Zealand when you could come to make your film at Camping Pianelli, just outside Berceto? I half expect Bilbo Baggins to pop his head round the corner of the reception or for Gandalf to summon me to his cottage. Probably […]
In sending me off down the road to Parma, Angelo told me to find a bike shop called Del Sante first; they were the best in town. 20 odd kilometres later after battling the heavy traffic on the road to the home of Italian ham and hard cheese, […]
On leaving the campsite I was chatting to the old guy who ran the place and his son; I explained that I had a problem with the bike and they said that I would actually be much better going to the nearby town of Fidenza. Their logical argument […]
In fact lots of question marks today but the old guy who runs this place could cheer anyone up; I didn’t need the bottle of Montpulciano alone! So here is the plan; cycle back into Salsomaggiore Terme and see if either of the two bike shops that have […]
1. I have a place to sleep tonight in a very busy but very friendly site somewhere that I can’t spell without looking at the map (and that would mean standing up and I can’t be bothered) but about 30 kilometres south of Parma 2. I have just […]
This (plastic) cow looks about as happy as me right now. Within five minutes of Simone cycling off in the other direction, I heard a tangle of metal behind me. No prizes for guessing that another spoke on the back wheel had gone. Arghh! I have tentatively arrived […]
What a great guide and a great introduction to Italy but sadly Simone is off back to Pavia. Hopefully I’ll see him and Elettra soon. In the timebeing I need to continue cycling and get to Castell’Arquato. More later.
Including some delicious Stracchino cheese!
I have an App on the iPhone that lists campsites in Italy… just not all of them! For example there is a site in Pavia but it isn’t mentioned on the App. Notwithstanding, I’ve just put lots of little triangles on the map of sites between here in […]
Just returned to Simone’s flat after a lovely evening meal at this fantastic restaurant full of Italians, not tourists. Very authentic. I ate probably the largest pizza I have ever put knife and fork to; delicious! What’s more, Simone and Elettra have moved out of their studio flat […]
Before I start, a big than-you to recent donations to the charity fund; it now stands at 87% of the total! This afternoon’s cycle was mainly along a very straight canal than leads from the southern suburbs of Milan to Pavia and we arrived in Pavia a few […]
A beautiful blue sky has accompanied Simone & Alan, Reggie & myself down to Milan. Alan by the way is Simone’s bike; I’m not the only one you see! Much of the cycle was through the extended suburbs of Milan which seem to stretch as far as Como […]
Just met Simone from Pavia at Como station for a journey that will take us to his home town via Milan for coffee!
The food is fine; I’ve just had a Big Mac and fries for the first time in years and it was great. I don’t have an issue with what they sell at all as long as people don’t live off the stuff. I know some do which is […]
Not a bad view if you are having an afternoon drink like me or indeed if you are waiting for a bus (green pole on the left). The statistics for the day are as follows; Cycling time: 4 hrs 27 mins 17 secs Distance: 75.00 kms Average speed: […]
My final country but the longest of the five by far!
What a beautiful place; I have suddenly arrived in southern Europe! I set off this morning at around 8 o’clock. It was not difficult to pick up Swiss route 3 as it ran right past the entrance to the campsite. Avoiding Bellinzona itself (I’ll come back to that […]
With some colourful graffiti to send me on my may. Non piove e il venti è con il mio! (Does that make sense you Italian speakers?)
I’m not sure whether it is or not but crossing over into Italy at some point tomorrow will feel like it. I’ve notched up just under 1,600 kilometres in two and a half weeks; the estimate was for a total of between 3,000 and 3,500 over five weeks […]
I have failed to get hooked up to the Internet via Wi-Fi here at the campsite so instead I have just been through all the comments made over the last couple of days, made some notes and below are your individual responses. Some comments might only make sense […]
My one-day lay off from the cycling has at least allowed me to catch up on the domestics, notably the washing but also a shave for the first time in the best part of a week. It has also given me the chance to explore the town of […]
On the left you have a classic example of a Zug Adora L, circa 1985. On the right a Blomberg spin dryer; top of the range by the looks of it with one large dial that turns in not one but two directions. Both are powered by their […]
Last night we had an almighty storm; it’s a pity that I only heard it rather than watched it because there were more flashes of light than at a celebrity wedding. The downside is that it is continuing to rain. Perhaps rain in these parts is sponsored by […]
Only the other day I was saying on here how well the bike was performing… Claus Zimmerman, teacher from southern Germany told me not to take the old cobbled road down the other side of the Gotthard Pass. Claus (different Claus by the way from Stuttgart Claus who […]
Thank you all for your supportive comments this afternoon. There is a tale to tell about what happened after I reached the top of the pass. More later!
It seems a world away from the classy tourist trap of Lucerne up here at the Gotthard pass. It’s more in line with what you find at Land’s End or even Stone Henge. There is a museum which, if it were free I would have wandered round but […]
I made it! And so did lots of other people in cars… Here are the stats for the ride from Andermatt to the pass; Cycling time: 1 hr 31 mins 20 secs Distance: 12.62 kms Average speed: 8.2 kms/hr Maximum speed: 25.6 kms/hr Now off to explore the […]
… as the road splits into old and new 3 kms from the top.
This is looking back upon (a bit of) what I have cycled so far this morning…
..is somewhere over that hill!
Because I could probably eat one. What was that? Oh yes, this is Switzerland not France. The bottle of wine, before you puritans comment, is a 50 cl bottle by the way.
Cycling time: 7 hrs 8 mins 20 secs Distance: 112.09 kms Average speed: 15.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 47.7 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 1,573.5 kms
Perhaps it was in the water (there is plenty of it). When I wasn’t sure whether I had actually booked a place in the campsite at Altdorf. When I spoke to the South African chap at the site this morning and talked about how nice it was not […]
At bizarrely, exactly 1,500 kms from Reading, I’m on another ferry. This one seems to be lacking anyone drinking pints of lager in the morning. in fact there are only about ten people on the boat. Very sedate….
My direction is route number 3, Altdorf, 32 kms away from this place called Stans. Wonder if there is an Ogdens nearby? In taking this photo a little old lady came up to me and, half in English, half in German, told me to take the direct road. […]
It’s 8 o’clock and I’m packed and ready for the off. Needless to say a little damp as it continued to rain all night, but with great timing, after having packed everything into the panniers while inside the tent (not an easy task when it is barely barely […]
I’ve been taking pictures like this one all day today as I have bounced backward and forward between the shoreline of Lake Lucerne (or Vierwaldstättersee as we should call it if only we could pronounce it) and the town itself. Lucerne has a few interesting bits and pieces […]
I have sold my soul to the tourist trail devil and have sat down for a pint of beer in an British-styled pub; Mr Pickwick Pub. I did make a point of choosing a Swiss beer rather than Fosters. You would not believe how it is continuing to […]
I arrived in Lucern about an hour and a half ago. The waterfront is striking. Split into two halves by the river that runs like a torrent through the middle of the town, one side is what you would expect a Swiss lakeside view to look like; pretty […]
More people have been curious as to how the bike is holding up rather than me! I’ll take that as a positive vote of confidence in my abilities to get through this in one piece. So the bike, Reggie Ridgeback Panorama. He appears to be fine. Initial annoyances […]
