Lucca

My guide books says that this is a place you could just spend hours wandering around, and that’s exactly what I have spent the morning doing. The picture here is actually a very untypical view of the city; most streets are long, thin and windy interrupted with the […]

On The Tourist Trail

“Greg, do you wanna go up this thing?” someone just shouted. It’s not even 9 o’clock and the Campo dei Miracoli is already heaving. It is a beautiful open area; I just dread to think what it will be like later in the day. Lots of people are […]

To Pisa: The Details

I have to say, this is one of the best equipped campsites so far on the Eurovelo 5. You can see in the picture that there are nets above the tents to keep things cool in the sun (not sure how they would cope with the rain; hope […]

Statistics For The Day To Pisa

Cycling time: 7 hrs 3 mins 47 secs Distance: 150.57 kms (Is that a record? How many did I do en route to Luxembourg?) Average: 21.3 kms/hr Maximum speed: 49.4 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,227.8 kms If those figures don’t deserve this cheese, I don’t know what does. […]

Pisa

Today certainly put the ‘cycling’ into ‘cycling holiday’. 7 hours in the saddle! But I have arrived at my intended destination and am looking forward to a day off tomorrow in Lucca and Pisa itself. I may even try and use the train to give me a real […]

La Spezia

Three hours predominantly downhill and 70 kilometres after leaving the Hobbits in their village, we arrive with all our spokes in tact at the sea. My aspiration yesterday of being able to spot the Mediterranean by the end of the day was on the assumption that you might […]

Al Mare!

To the sea! If all goes well I should see the sea today and poke my toes into it. This is Bercato by the way; quite a large place when you consider where it is. Just had foccacia for breakfast (have you set fire to that yet David? […]

Salsomaggiore To Berceto

Here are the statistics for the day; Cycling time: 5 hrs 20 mins 52 secs Distance: 99.75 kms Average speed: 18.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 40.9 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,076.9 kms When I got to 2,000 kilometres I was hoping to take a picture similar to when I […]

Hobbit Village In The Hills

Who needs an expensive film set in New Zealand when you could come to make your film at Camping Pianelli, just outside Berceto? I half expect Bilbo Baggins to pop his head round the corner of the reception or for Gandalf to summon me to his cottage. Probably […]

Del Sante To The Rescue

In sending me off down the road to Parma, Angelo told me to find a bike shop called Del Sante first; they were the best in town. 20 odd kilometres later after battling the heavy traffic on the road to the home of Italian ham and hard cheese, […]

Help From An Angel

On leaving the campsite I was chatting to the old guy who ran the place and his son; I explained that I had a problem with the bike and they said that I would actually be much better going to the nearby town of Fidenza. Their logical argument […]

Camping Arizona to ?

In fact lots of question marks today but the old guy who runs this place could cheer anyone up; I didn’t need the bottle of Montpulciano alone! So here is the plan; cycle back into Salsomaggiore Terme and see if either of the two bike shops that have […]

Moo Hoo

This (plastic) cow looks about as happy as me right now. Within five minutes of Simone cycling off in the other direction, I heard a tangle of metal behind me. No prizes for guessing that another spoke on the back wheel had gone. Arghh! I have tentatively arrived […]

Ciao Simone

What a great guide and a great introduction to Italy but sadly Simone is off back to Pavia. Hopefully I’ll see him and Elettra soon. In the timebeing I need to continue cycling and get to Castell’Arquato. More later.

Planning Pavia to Rome

I have an App on the iPhone that lists campsites in Italy… just not all of them! For example there is a site in Pavia but it isn’t mentioned on the App. Notwithstanding, I’ve just put lots of little triangles on the map of sites between here in […]

Ristorante Da Giulio, Pavia

Just returned to Simone’s flat after a lovely evening meal at this fantastic restaurant full of Italians, not tourists. Very authentic. I ate probably the largest pizza I have ever put knife and fork to; delicious! What’s more, Simone and Elettra have moved out of their studio flat […]

Pavia

Before I start, a big than-you to recent donations to the charity fund; it now stands at 87% of the total! This afternoon’s cycle was mainly along a very straight canal than leads from the southern suburbs of Milan to Pavia and we arrived in Pavia a few […]

Milano

A beautiful blue sky has accompanied Simone & Alan, Reggie & myself down to Milan. Alan by the way is Simone’s bike; I’m not the only one you see! Much of the cycle was through the extended suburbs of Milan which seem to stretch as far as Como […]

Como

Not a bad view if you are having an afternoon drink like me or indeed if you are waiting for a bus (green pole on the left). The statistics for the day are as follows; Cycling time: 4 hrs 27 mins 17 secs Distance: 75.00 kms Average speed: […]

Lugano

What a beautiful place; I have suddenly arrived in southern Europe! I set off this morning at around 8 o’clock. It was not difficult to pick up Swiss route 3 as it ran right past the entrance to the campsite. Avoiding Bellinzona itself (I’ll come back to that […]

Half-Way

I’m not sure whether it is or not but crossing over into Italy at some point tomorrow will feel like it. I’ve notched up just under 1,600 kilometres in two and a half weeks; the estimate was for a total of between 3,000 and 3,500 over five weeks […]

Responses To Your Comments

I have failed to get hooked up to the Internet via Wi-Fi here at the campsite so instead I have just been through all the comments made over the last couple of days, made some notes and below are your individual responses. Some comments might only make sense […]

Good Morning?

Last night we had an almighty storm; it’s a pity that I only heard it rather than watched it because there were more flashes of light than at a celebrity wedding. The downside is that it is continuing to rain. Perhaps rain in these parts is sponsored by […]

I Spoke Too Soon

Only the other day I was saying on here how well the bike was performing… Claus Zimmerman, teacher from southern Germany told me not to take the old cobbled road down the other side of the Gotthard Pass. Claus (different Claus by the way from Stuttgart Claus who […]

Passing Through The Pass

It seems a world away from the classy tourist trap of Lucerne up here at the Gotthard pass. It’s more in line with what you find at Land’s End or even Stone Henge. There is a museum which, if it were free I would have wandered round but […]

The St. Gotthard Pass

I made it! And so did lots of other people in cars… Here are the stats for the ride from Andermatt to the pass; Cycling time: 1 hr 31 mins 20 secs Distance: 12.62 kms Average speed: 8.2 kms/hr Maximum speed: 25.6 kms/hr Now off to explore the […]

Lucerne to…

Perhaps it was in the water (there is plenty of it). When I wasn’t sure whether I had actually booked a place in the campsite at Altdorf. When I spoke to the South African chap at the site this morning and talked about how nice it was not […]

Which Way Now?

My direction is route number 3, Altdorf, 32 kms away from this place called Stans. Wonder if there is an Ogdens nearby? In taking this photo a little old lady came up to me and, half in English, half in German, told me to take the direct road. […]

Leaving Lucerne

It’s 8 o’clock and I’m packed and ready for the off. Needless to say a little damp as it continued to rain all night, but with great timing, after having packed everything into the panniers while inside the tent (not an easy task when it is barely barely […]

Approaching The Big One

I’ve been taking pictures like this one all day today as I have bounced backward and forward between the shoreline of Lake Lucerne (or Vierwaldstättersee as we should call it if only we could pronounce it) and the town itself. Lucerne has a few interesting bits and pieces […]

British Weather, British Pint

I have sold my soul to the tourist trail devil and have sat down for a pint of beer in an British-styled pub; Mr Pickwick Pub. I did make a point of choosing a Swiss beer rather than Fosters. You would not believe how it is continuing to […]

Lucern

I arrived in Lucern about an hour and a half ago. The waterfront is striking. Split into two halves by the river that runs like a torrent through the middle of the town, one side is what you would expect a Swiss lakeside view to look like; pretty […]

Status Report

More people have been curious as to how the bike is holding up rather than me! I’ll take that as a positive vote of confidence in my abilities to get through this in one piece. So the bike, Reggie Ridgeback Panorama. He appears to be fine. Initial annoyances […]

Stress En Suisse

Let’s start with the stats; Cycling time: 6 hrs 14 mins 34 secs Distance: 103.41 kms Average speed: 16.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: 51.6 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 total: 1,426.6 kms Just a note on the statistics; they are a reflection of where the bike goes between setting off in […]

Out Of The Comfort Zone

I am, finally in Switzerland. In the centre of Basle in the square outside the train station. The general consensus of opinion at the campsite last night was to watch the fireworks in Basel to celebrate the Swiss national day from the bridge in the picture. The campsite […]

A User’s Guide To eurovelo5.com

A big thank you to the many people who have been posting comments on this blog. It is a real delight when I send my own posts to the blog to receive the messages that you have been sending either via the blog itself using the “comments” button […]

Huningue, France (Not Switzerland)

These pictures of campsites with tents and trees and the sun are becoming a bit repetitive aren’t they? Sorry, I’ll try be more imaginative tomorrow night. Here are today’s statistics; Cycling time: 4 hrs 39 mins 9 secs Distance: 99.07 kms Average speed: 21.3 kms/hr Maximum speed: 32.5 […]

Following Orders In Ottmarsheim

Well it does say “stop” on the sign, do I did, bought some lunch and ate it by this bell. Couldn’t understand the inscription but I’m thinking they (there is another one of the other side of the road) are from a long destroyed church. Lots of religious […]

Coffee In Colmar

I feel like a meercat (correct spelling?) when I wake up on a campsite; I desperately search out a bit of sun and bask in it for a while to heat up my body. Today was a classic example but I was assisted in my efforts by my […]

Eguisheim; The Good, The Bad, The Miserable

Firstly today’s statistics (which are all a bit affected by me pushing the bike from the campsite into the town, slowly….); Cycling time: 5 hrs 43 mins 20 secs Distance: 105.36 kms Average speed: 18.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: error!!! It says 129.5 kms/hr which is clearly nonsense. Probably […]

The Jury Is Still Out….

..on Camping des Trois Chateaux in Eguisheim; scrawny muddy pitch. The small town looks more promising and it’s only 200 metres away. Shower, change and explore that before I get too depressed. If it rains, it will not be fun in the morning.

Memorial A La Ligne Maginot

Bill Bryson would love this place! It’s the kind of museum he writes about so well in his travelogues. I’ll try to emulate his style… I mentioned the Maginot Line a few days ago when I was on the Franco-Belgian border. Maginot was the French minister of war […]

The Midday News From Marckolsheim

As I type the local church is ringing out that it is 12 o’clock and Reggie & myself have paused (he has no choice on the matter of course) in the village of Marckolsheim some 60 kilometres south of Strasbourg. About three quarters of this morning’s cycle has […]

Onward & Southward

I’m tempting fate by saying this but if you split my route into three parts, part 1 being from Reading to Strasbourg, part 2 from Strasbourg to the Swiss-Italian border and part 3 being the entire length of Italy, part 2 is the “easy” bit when it comes […]

Day Off In Strasbourg

I came down from the cathedral and went off to meet up with Claus, my friend from Stuttgart. I had thought that it might be difficult trying to find him in a city that I certainly didn’t know well and that he had visited only fairly sporadically but […]

Change of Plan

Stuttgart Claus offered to come to Strasbourg today rather than tomorrow which is good news as I can now “bank” the extra rest day for future use and head off down the Rhine tomorrow morning. It just means that I have to do Strasbourg in 24 rather than […]

Water-Based Activities in Strasbourg

There are two amazing things about this picture of the cathedral in Strasbourg. Firstly the church itself; amazing colour, amazing size, amazingly intricate detail – I’ll come back and explore tomorrow. Secondly the sky; it is blue. After the rain that I have endured today, both when cycling […]

Mouillé, Mouillé, Mouillé

Cycling down from the “Porte des Vosges” could have been the most enjoyable ride so far; the long decent through deeply forested hills, opening out onto a plane full of colour, both from the crops in the fields and in the pretty villages with their brightly painted houses […]

Michael & Jeanete

It is so nice to meet people en route who are interested in what I am doing. This morning it was the guy at the entrance to Metz campsite, tonight it is my neighbours on the site here in Dabo. They were heading back to southern Germany (near […]

The Best Day So Far?

What a fabulous day! The question mark in the title is merely because I have now been doing this for so many days that I am beginning to forget all of the great days I have had. This afternoon’s cycle from Morhange to Sarrebourg continued in the same […]

Stats: Metz to Dabo

An important psychological achievement today; my first 1,000 kilometres. Here is the rest of the information: Cycling time: 6 hrs 8 mins 28 secs Distance: 120.05 kms Average speed: 19.5 kms/hr Maximum speed: 49.9 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 1,051.8 kms

Morhange & The French Economic Miracle

This is Morange, 50 kilometres from Metz and just under half way I reckon to Sarrebourg, my destination. This morning’s ride was nice; rolling countryside, the odd little climb to keep me awake, a mixture of sun and cloud to heat me up but then cool me down […]

Morning in Metz

This coffee tastes as good as it looks. The weather is looking up; blue sky without any threatening clouds. Fingers crossed. I was changing the dressing on my foot at the campsite entrance this morning when a French chap struck up conversation. He had watched me pack my […]

Alsace & Lorraine Trigonometry

Think of a right-angle triangle with the right angle (the one that is 90 degrees for those of you who struggled in the CSE maths class) in the bottom left. The triangle is wider than it is tall (like a widescreen TV – this is differentiated blogging!). Hopefully […]

Metz

Reggie, Henry (that’s the tent by the way; Henry Helium 100) & I arrived about an hour ago in Metz and it was very wet. Horrible, boring rain that depresses you, not the Wagnerian stuff that I so much enjoyed the other day in Meuse country. There was […]

Thionville – Don’t Rush

Does 3,20€ seem a lot for a bottle of Diet Coke? Just paused for lunch (which they can’t serve me in this bar…) at Thionville. Not a pretty place so I won’t be stopping long. This is very different country from the Meuse of last week. The vineyards […]

Schengen

Having picked my way south east across the corn fields of Luxembourg, a task made a little more difficult by the stiff, cold wind trying to push me back to the capital, it was a relief to arrive at the Moselle valley. Immediately below me, apart from the […]

Back On The Eurovelo 5

Hotels are all very good but they don’t half spoil you! I’ve just had another slap up breakfast after another extremely good night’s sleep. But I’m desperate to get back on the road again!! Cooped up in a little box is no fun once the novelty has worn […]

24 Hour Eating at Pizza Hut

I’m facing 12 on the terrace of Pizza Hut in central Luxembourg city. Behind me at 7 are three Americans in their 20s, full of tall stories and tales of their European adventures. They speak English to the waitress without hesitation. True to type, everyone can hear them […]

A Day in Luxembourg

I have loved the last six days of cycling but it has been equally good to have a very relaxing day off in a laid back place like Luxembourg. After a full English breakfast (!) at the hotel I strolled the 200 metres or so into the city […]

As I Was Saying…

….before my eyes shut while typing the previous post last night. Much of yesterday’s route was dotted with remnants from the Second World War; lots of pillar boxes and a couple of monuments. The number of names of American soldiers who were either killed or lost in action […]

Luxury in Luxembourg

What a domestic scene this is… But it is well-rewarded after the longest day so far. I was woken this morning by Michael Jackson. Fear not, he had not come back to life to visit a campsite in the Ardennes at 5.30am; his music was being played at […]

Mouzon to ?

A bit of indecision this morning as to which direction to head in. Verdun was a possibility but it doesn’t seem to have much to offer other than a battlefield. So Luxembourg it still is; quite a distance but if the weather stays like this and the towns […]

The Magnificent Meuse

When I woke up this morning, I would have been hard pressed to tell you that the Meuse was in France let alone in the area I was travelling in. It has, however, transformed what was becoming a bit of a pedestrian cycle (can I say that?) ride […]

Papiers!

Just coming back into France after another, much more rewarding (and well surfaced) excursion into Belgium. This border post is still standing; today empty and the benefits to all are clear. But there is something adventurous about border crossings, the fact perhaps that you may not be let […]

Très Wet in Trélon

Rain set in about an hour ago – hail at the start! – and it looks as if it will continue. The countryside initially was just like West Yorkshire. Very strange and I really feel that I have yet to escape the north of France.