Cesareo, East Of Rome
I left Rome early today; it made sense to do so as Marcello was off to work and with some hot weather finally being promised, I need to maximise the amount of time spent cycling when it is a little bit cooler. And it was certainly nice and […]
Eurovelo 5: The Final Week
I set off exactly four weeks ago today and with any luck, I should be in Brindisi this time next Sunday meaning I will have completed the entire route from Reading to Brindisi about two days ahead of schedule. The plan for the coming week is as follows; […]
Rome: Il Vittoriano
The view from the very top of the Vittorio Emanuele monument is amazing; here is the Coliseum and the hills beyond… which turn my thoughts to cycling south on the morning. I’ll start making my way back to Marcello’s flat soon to plan. Vittorio is a good name […]
Rome: Piazza Navona
If you can remember that far back, when I was in Luxembourg a few weeks ago, I visited an excellent museum all about the history of the city itself. It was well-presented, informative, interesting and told a complete picture that enabled me later, when wandering around the town, […]
Rome: The Trevi Fountain
It’s easier to get a better picture of the crowd than it is the fountain itself. So that’s what you’ve got I’m afraid. I walked from Marcello’s flat which is in the area behind the main railway station into the centre. It took me about half an hour; […]
Buongiorno Roma!
9am. Need to go off and explore!
Rome: Marcello’s Flat
Here is Marcello. Great guy. He lives in this flat just to the east of the centre of Rome with his girlfriend and dog, Ambra. His girlfriend is away this weekend so it was Marcello, myself and the dog who had “hot” chicken curry tonight. Well, the dog […]
The Vatican City
You know that I’m not on a pilgrimage but it was the first thing I bumped into… The statistics; Cycling time: 7 hrs 17 mins 44 secs Distance: 134.5 kms Average speed: 18.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: 50.6 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,601.9 kms Now off along the cobbles […]
Bracciano
As you can see it has a big castle! It’s a bit similar to Bolsena in that it sits next to and gives its name to a lake. Apart from that, can’t really tell you that much about it. I probably never will as it is mere curiosity […]
No Fun On The Road To Rome
It is cold. There is constant drizzle. The wind is hell. All I am doing is putting my head down and watching tarmac to make sure I avoid the holes in the road. No fun whatsoever. Not one bit.
Viterbo
This picture sums up the glamour of this morning’s ride so far. I re-oiled the chain after yesterday’s drenching but still had a very annoying squeak on the back wheel. I put it down to the lubrication in the wheel itself being washed away along with the chain […]
Correction!
It’s Marcello in Rome! Not Claudio…. Mi scusi. Another error on my part; today is Saturday; I’ve been a day behind all this week. This cycling lark is making me befuddled 🙂
All Roads Lead To Rome
Clearly not true; I could turn back and head to the UK but the one that I will be continuing on today – the SS2 – certainly does. And an important milestone en route to Brindisi. Most people stop their walk or cycle in the Italian capital so, […]
12 Hour Eating At Il Ristorante Toscane
We are no longer in Tuscany but I shan’t quibble about the name; there is Peking Palace in Reading and dozens of Aberdeen Steakhouses in London. I only have half a clock to analyse tonight as from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock there is a wall. So, apart […]
Statistics: Siena to Bolsena
Nearly forgot! Cycling time: 6 hrs 23 mins 6 secs Distance: 121.69 kms Average speed: 19.0 kms/hr Maximum speed: 51.2 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,466.6 kms
Beautiful!
What an amazing little place! The storm clouds have disappeared and the view from here on the terrace of the castle – the last thing I was expecting – is stunning. After the 2,50€ beverage, I crossed over to the tourist office and enquired about budget accommodation. They […]
Bolsena; The Best & Worst Of Italy
You are looking at one of the best that I have found so far on my Italian odyssey; a large (40cl) beer for 2,50€. Bloody amazing. They clearly saw me coming, drenched and identified me as a potential customer who needed cheering up with a cheap drink. I […]
Acquapendente
The name of the town is very appropriate. When I left San Quirico d’Orcia the rain had almost stopped. It seemed the passing storm had indeed passed. Storms move faster than cyclists so although it was heading in the same direction as me, I thought we were in […]
San Quirico D’Orcia
90 degrees to the left there is a biblical storm the likes of which I have only ever seen in films with Charlton Heston; black sky, thunder, lightening, frogs and errr… a nun just walking past with an umbrella. I timed my arrival in San Quirico d’Orcia well […]
Buonconvento
Mid morning coffee in this beautiful out-of-way (well not really as it’s on the main road to Rome) village 25 kilometres south of Siena. Nice & quiet however; a world away from Siena and the excitement of the Palio. And the two 85 cent coffees certainly hit the […]
Following Advice
As per your combined recommendations, I am now the proud owner of two cans of Autan and a packet of antihistamine tablets! Thank you. As for my travels, well, Siena wasn’t working for me which is a pity as I would have loved to have had a proper […]
Gracie
Thanks for all the comments to the previous post; Autan it is; I shall stop st the first pharmacy I see. Off to Siena for a bit and then south to the Lago di Bolsena and beyond….
Downtown Siena
For the first time tonight I’m feeling bit depressed. 🙁 Well, not really depressed, just a mixture of feeling sorry for myself; all the bites that I have suffered and which are making me feel uncomfortable for much of the time, especially when I am not cycling and […]
Statistics: Pisa To Siena
Cycling time: 5 hrs 57 mins 19 secs Distance: 116.88 kms Average speed: 19.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 47.3 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,344.8 kms
From The North Sea To The Adriatic
Another cycle traveller, Tricia Graham, you may want to follow at the following website; http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/ambertrail
How Far To Siena?
In the last five kilometres, the distance to Siena following the SR2 has been; firstly 18.5 kms, then 24 kms, then 19 kms and look! It’s back up to 25 kms!! Is there a game I’m missing out on here? The picture was taken in Castellina Scalo by […]
Castelfiorentino
I arrived in Castelfiorentino at precisely 12 noon; the clock was striking as I cycled into what appeared to be a fairly modern place. With a name like Castelfiorentino, I suppose I could have imagined something similar to what I imagined for Montopoli in Val d’Arno earlier. I […]
Montopoli In Val d’Arno
When I plugged Pisa and Siena into Via Michelin (bike option) at the campsite last night – there was a desktop computer available for campers – it came up with the route I’m now following. Montopoli In Val d’Arno immediately stood out as an potentially interesting place simply […]
Mosquitoes, Manholes & Miracles
When I look at the map, Pisa sits in a lowland area with lots of blue lines indicating both natural and man-made waterways. The tower is / was sinking into the swamp / bog upon which Pisa is built. I can only hope that this means that as […]
Long-Distance Cyclists Just Setting Off
There are three people (that I know of) who have just or are about to start cycling kind of the same route as me. Bill is cycling from Orkney to Rome, Chris is cycling from Brussels to Kephalonia, and Sue is cycling from the Austrian Tyrol to Christchurch […]
The View From The Torre Guinigi
Good phone reception up here. I can’t get out of my mind the tower in Pavia that collapsed without warning…
Lucca
My guide books says that this is a place you could just spend hours wandering around, and that’s exactly what I have spent the morning doing. The picture here is actually a very untypical view of the city; most streets are long, thin and windy interrupted with the […]
My New Bike
Just bought this bike for next year’s trip. Need three people to join me. Any takers?
On The Tourist Trail
“Greg, do you wanna go up this thing?” someone just shouted. It’s not even 9 o’clock and the Campo dei Miracoli is already heaving. It is a beautiful open area; I just dread to think what it will be like later in the day. Lots of people are […]
The Jazz Band…
..which I am enjoying from the Wi-Fi zone next to the reception. Any requests?
To Pisa: The Details
I have to say, this is one of the best equipped campsites so far on the Eurovelo 5. You can see in the picture that there are nets above the tents to keep things cool in the sun (not sure how they would cope with the rain; hope […]
Statistics For The Day To Pisa
Cycling time: 7 hrs 3 mins 47 secs Distance: 150.57 kms (Is that a record? How many did I do en route to Luxembourg?) Average: 21.3 kms/hr Maximum speed: 49.4 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,227.8 kms If those figures don’t deserve this cheese, I don’t know what does. […]
Pisa
Today certainly put the ‘cycling’ into ‘cycling holiday’. 7 hours in the saddle! But I have arrived at my intended destination and am looking forward to a day off tomorrow in Lucca and Pisa itself. I may even try and use the train to give me a real […]
La Spezia
Three hours predominantly downhill and 70 kilometres after leaving the Hobbits in their village, we arrive with all our spokes in tact at the sea. My aspiration yesterday of being able to spot the Mediterranean by the end of the day was on the assumption that you might […]
Passo Della Cisa II
You’ll never believe what that woman is selling…
Passo Della Cisa
Only half the height of the St. Gotthard but still a cracking view. And nobody selling sausages or stuffed animals!
Al Mare!
To the sea! If all goes well I should see the sea today and poke my toes into it. This is Bercato by the way; quite a large place when you consider where it is. Just had foccacia for breakfast (have you set fire to that yet David? […]
Responses To Comments
Just spent a few minutes replying to people via http://www.eurovelo5.com and Facebook; check as I may have replied to you. Thanks for everyone’s continued supportive messages and useful advice and guidance!
Salsomaggiore To Berceto
Here are the statistics for the day; Cycling time: 5 hrs 20 mins 52 secs Distance: 99.75 kms Average speed: 18.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 40.9 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 2,076.9 kms When I got to 2,000 kilometres I was hoping to take a picture similar to when I […]
Hobbit Village In The Hills
Who needs an expensive film set in New Zealand when you could come to make your film at Camping Pianelli, just outside Berceto? I half expect Bilbo Baggins to pop his head round the corner of the reception or for Gandalf to summon me to his cottage. Probably […]
Del Sante To The Rescue
In sending me off down the road to Parma, Angelo told me to find a bike shop called Del Sante first; they were the best in town. 20 odd kilometres later after battling the heavy traffic on the road to the home of Italian ham and hard cheese, […]
Help From An Angel
On leaving the campsite I was chatting to the old guy who ran the place and his son; I explained that I had a problem with the bike and they said that I would actually be much better going to the nearby town of Fidenza. Their logical argument […]
Camping Arizona to ?
In fact lots of question marks today but the old guy who runs this place could cheer anyone up; I didn’t need the bottle of Montpulciano alone! So here is the plan; cycle back into Salsomaggiore Terme and see if either of the two bike shops that have […]
Reasons To Be Cheerful, Uno, Due, Tre…
1. I have a place to sleep tonight in a very busy but very friendly site somewhere that I can’t spell without looking at the map (and that would mean standing up and I can’t be bothered) but about 30 kilometres south of Parma 2. I have just […]
Moo Hoo
This (plastic) cow looks about as happy as me right now. Within five minutes of Simone cycling off in the other direction, I heard a tangle of metal behind me. No prizes for guessing that another spoke on the back wheel had gone. Arghh! I have tentatively arrived […]
Ciao Simone
What a great guide and a great introduction to Italy but sadly Simone is off back to Pavia. Hopefully I’ll see him and Elettra soon. In the timebeing I need to continue cycling and get to Castell’Arquato. More later.
La Colazione A Pavia
Including some delicious Stracchino cheese!
Planning Pavia to Rome
I have an App on the iPhone that lists campsites in Italy… just not all of them! For example there is a site in Pavia but it isn’t mentioned on the App. Notwithstanding, I’ve just put lots of little triangles on the map of sites between here in […]
Ristorante Da Giulio, Pavia
Just returned to Simone’s flat after a lovely evening meal at this fantastic restaurant full of Italians, not tourists. Very authentic. I ate probably the largest pizza I have ever put knife and fork to; delicious! What’s more, Simone and Elettra have moved out of their studio flat […]
Pavia
Before I start, a big than-you to recent donations to the charity fund; it now stands at 87% of the total! This afternoon’s cycle was mainly along a very straight canal than leads from the southern suburbs of Milan to Pavia and we arrived in Pavia a few […]
Milano
A beautiful blue sky has accompanied Simone & Alan, Reggie & myself down to Milan. Alan by the way is Simone’s bike; I’m not the only one you see! Much of the cycle was through the extended suburbs of Milan which seem to stretch as far as Como […]
Simone Sacchi
Just met Simone from Pavia at Como station for a journey that will take us to his home town via Milan for coffee!
A Good Reason To Dislike McDonald’s
The food is fine; I’ve just had a Big Mac and fries for the first time in years and it was great. I don’t have an issue with what they sell at all as long as people don’t live off the stuff. I know some do which is […]
Como
Not a bad view if you are having an afternoon drink like me or indeed if you are waiting for a bus (green pole on the left). The statistics for the day are as follows; Cycling time: 4 hrs 27 mins 17 secs Distance: 75.00 kms Average speed: […]
….Buongiorno Italia!
My final country but the longest of the five by far!
Arriverderci Svizzera….
Lugano
What a beautiful place; I have suddenly arrived in southern Europe! I set off this morning at around 8 o’clock. It was not difficult to pick up Swiss route 3 as it ran right past the entrance to the campsite. Avoiding Bellinzona itself (I’ll come back to that […]
Vado In Italia
With some colourful graffiti to send me on my may. Non piove e il venti è con il mio! (Does that make sense you Italian speakers?)
Half-Way
I’m not sure whether it is or not but crossing over into Italy at some point tomorrow will feel like it. I’ve notched up just under 1,600 kilometres in two and a half weeks; the estimate was for a total of between 3,000 and 3,500 over five weeks […]
Responses To Your Comments
I have failed to get hooked up to the Internet via Wi-Fi here at the campsite so instead I have just been through all the comments made over the last couple of days, made some notes and below are your individual responses. Some comments might only make sense […]
At Half Speed In Bellinzona
My one-day lay off from the cycling has at least allowed me to catch up on the domestics, notably the washing but also a shave for the first time in the best part of a week. It has also given me the chance to explore the town of […]
More Glamour On The EV5 Grand Tour
On the left you have a classic example of a Zug Adora L, circa 1985. On the right a Blomberg spin dryer; top of the range by the looks of it with one large dial that turns in not one but two directions. Both are powered by their […]
Good Morning?
Last night we had an almighty storm; it’s a pity that I only heard it rather than watched it because there were more flashes of light than at a celebrity wedding. The downside is that it is continuing to rain. Perhaps rain in these parts is sponsored by […]
I Spoke Too Soon
Only the other day I was saying on here how well the bike was performing… Claus Zimmerman, teacher from southern Germany told me not to take the old cobbled road down the other side of the Gotthard Pass. Claus (different Claus by the way from Stuttgart Claus who […]
Thanks!
Thank you all for your supportive comments this afternoon. There is a tale to tell about what happened after I reached the top of the pass. More later!
The Long & Winding Road To Ticino
Passing Through The Pass
It seems a world away from the classy tourist trap of Lucerne up here at the Gotthard pass. It’s more in line with what you find at Land’s End or even Stone Henge. There is a museum which, if it were free I would have wandered round but […]
The St. Gotthard Pass
I made it! And so did lots of other people in cars… Here are the stats for the ride from Andermatt to the pass; Cycling time: 1 hr 31 mins 20 secs Distance: 12.62 kms Average speed: 8.2 kms/hr Maximum speed: 25.6 kms/hr Now off to explore the […]
The Cobbles Start….
… as the road splits into old and new 3 kms from the top.
En Route To The Pass
This is looking back upon (a bit of) what I have cycled so far this morning…
The Final Frontier….
..is somewhere over that hill!
Do You Serve Horse?
Because I could probably eat one. What was that? Oh yes, this is Switzerland not France. The bottle of wine, before you puritans comment, is a 50 cl bottle by the way.
The Statistics to Andermatt
Cycling time: 7 hrs 8 mins 20 secs Distance: 112.09 kms Average speed: 15.6 kms/hr Maximum speed: 47.7 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 distance: 1,573.5 kms
Lucerne to…
Perhaps it was in the water (there is plenty of it). When I wasn’t sure whether I had actually booked a place in the campsite at Altdorf. When I spoke to the South African chap at the site this morning and talked about how nice it was not […]
Ferry From Beckenried To Gersau
At bizarrely, exactly 1,500 kms from Reading, I’m on another ferry. This one seems to be lacking anyone drinking pints of lager in the morning. in fact there are only about ten people on the boat. Very sedate….
Which Way Now?
My direction is route number 3, Altdorf, 32 kms away from this place called Stans. Wonder if there is an Ogdens nearby? In taking this photo a little old lady came up to me and, half in English, half in German, told me to take the direct road. […]
Leaving Lucerne
It’s 8 o’clock and I’m packed and ready for the off. Needless to say a little damp as it continued to rain all night, but with great timing, after having packed everything into the panniers while inside the tent (not an easy task when it is barely barely […]
Approaching The Big One
I’ve been taking pictures like this one all day today as I have bounced backward and forward between the shoreline of Lake Lucerne (or Vierwaldstättersee as we should call it if only we could pronounce it) and the town itself. Lucerne has a few interesting bits and pieces […]
British Weather, British Pint
I have sold my soul to the tourist trail devil and have sat down for a pint of beer in an British-styled pub; Mr Pickwick Pub. I did make a point of choosing a Swiss beer rather than Fosters. You would not believe how it is continuing to […]
Lucern
I arrived in Lucern about an hour and a half ago. The waterfront is striking. Split into two halves by the river that runs like a torrent through the middle of the town, one side is what you would expect a Swiss lakeside view to look like; pretty […]
Status Report
More people have been curious as to how the bike is holding up rather than me! I’ll take that as a positive vote of confidence in my abilities to get through this in one piece. So the bike, Reggie Ridgeback Panorama. He appears to be fine. Initial annoyances […]
Stress En Suisse
Let’s start with the stats; Cycling time: 6 hrs 14 mins 34 secs Distance: 103.41 kms Average speed: 16.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: 51.6 kms/hr Eurovelo 5 total: 1,426.6 kms Just a note on the statistics; they are a reflection of where the bike goes between setting off in […]
Out Of The Comfort Zone
I am, finally in Switzerland. In the centre of Basle in the square outside the train station. The general consensus of opinion at the campsite last night was to watch the fireworks in Basel to celebrate the Swiss national day from the bridge in the picture. The campsite […]
A User’s Guide To eurovelo5.com
A big thank you to the many people who have been posting comments on this blog. It is a real delight when I send my own posts to the blog to receive the messages that you have been sending either via the blog itself using the “comments” button […]
Huningue, France (Not Switzerland)
These pictures of campsites with tents and trees and the sun are becoming a bit repetitive aren’t they? Sorry, I’ll try be more imaginative tomorrow night. Here are today’s statistics; Cycling time: 4 hrs 39 mins 9 secs Distance: 99.07 kms Average speed: 21.3 kms/hr Maximum speed: 32.5 […]
Following Orders In Ottmarsheim
Well it does say “stop” on the sign, do I did, bought some lunch and ate it by this bell. Couldn’t understand the inscription but I’m thinking they (there is another one of the other side of the road) are from a long destroyed church. Lots of religious […]
Coffee In Colmar
I feel like a meercat (correct spelling?) when I wake up on a campsite; I desperately search out a bit of sun and bask in it for a while to heat up my body. Today was a classic example but I was assisted in my efforts by my […]
Eguisheim Wine Festival
I learnt so much tonight about Alsatian wine from these two guys…. But don’t remember much of the details. Enough said.
Eguisheim; The Good, The Bad, The Miserable
Firstly today’s statistics (which are all a bit affected by me pushing the bike from the campsite into the town, slowly….); Cycling time: 5 hrs 43 mins 20 secs Distance: 105.36 kms Average speed: 18.4 kms/hr Maximum speed: error!!! It says 129.5 kms/hr which is clearly nonsense. Probably […]
The Jury Is Still Out….
..on Camping des Trois Chateaux in Eguisheim; scrawny muddy pitch. The small town looks more promising and it’s only 200 metres away. Shower, change and explore that before I get too depressed. If it rains, it will not be fun in the morning.
Memorial A La Ligne Maginot
Bill Bryson would love this place! It’s the kind of museum he writes about so well in his travelogues. I’ll try to emulate his style… I mentioned the Maginot Line a few days ago when I was on the Franco-Belgian border. Maginot was the French minister of war […]
The Midday News From Marckolsheim
As I type the local church is ringing out that it is 12 o’clock and Reggie & myself have paused (he has no choice on the matter of course) in the village of Marckolsheim some 60 kilometres south of Strasbourg. About three quarters of this morning’s cycle has […]
The Canal Of The Rhone To The Rhine
Onward & Southward
I’m tempting fate by saying this but if you split my route into three parts, part 1 being from Reading to Strasbourg, part 2 from Strasbourg to the Swiss-Italian border and part 3 being the entire length of Italy, part 2 is the “easy” bit when it comes […]
