Big Jim’s Big Boozy Bike Trip to Braemar

Cycling contact Simon Johnson sent through a link to this video a few days ago. We tend to think we innovate in cycling but much of what we do is simply reinventing the past. Off-road adventure cycling is nothing new… “Join Big Jim Collie – a Scottish crofter who lives alone in a bothy in the foothills of the Cairngorms – as he embarks on one of his epic cross-highland trips. Jim is on his way to Braemar, which is 60 miles away – if you plan on sticking to the roads. Luckily, Big Jim knows a shortcut through the Lairig Ghru – the highest mountain pass in the highest mountain range in Britain – that brings the journey down to a more manageable 22 miles, albeit over some of the harshest terrain in Scotland. Fortunately, Big Jim has a secret weapon; the Lairig Flyer, a rickety old bicycle. Furthermore, he has a wealth of experience – this is his 105th crossing of the Lairig Ghru. Perhaps most importantly of all, he has strategically stashed an armful of whisky bottles along the route – just the thing to keep his spirits up.”

The Northern Isles: Day 12 – Stromness To Kirkwall

The final day on Orkney and a journey around the west, north and east coast of the western wing of the mainland. Skara Brae was impressive – very well presented – but the Brough of Birsay was the highlight. A great place to sit and watch the world go by in front of a magnificent backdrop. Once back in Kirkwall, I bumped into other cycle tourists I had come to know a little in recent weeks for a drink and then meal. As I stand here in Aberdeen station, we have all gone our separate ways, homeward bound. Where next?

The Northern Isles: Day 11 – Stromness

No cycling today. Just a slow wander along the flagged Main Street of Stromness and back again, via the Khyber Pass… Tomorrow is my final day, but it will be a long one as the ferry taking back to Aberdeen doesn’t leave Kirkwall until 23:45. I’m booked in to visit Skara Brae (11 km) at 11:30 and the Orkney Brewery is close by (4 km) leaving either a direct return to Kirkwall (30 km) or a cycle around the northern side of the mainland (50 km). I have plenty of time and will decide once I see how I feel leaving the brewery and / or the weather.

The Northern Isles: Day 10 – Hoy

A bit windy tonight…

The Northern Isles: Day 9 – Kirkwall To Stromness

There was a strange – but welcome – calm outside the hostel this morning. Barely a whisper of wind. Alas this encouraged the midges to start hovering around me as I was preparing to leave. Then the wind picked up. The wind does have advantages… The plan was to cycle straight to Stromness. As ever, the plan changed as I took a quieter road from the southern coastline of the ‘mainland’ to cut across in the direction of the Ring of Brodgar. It was a lucky decision as it happened to be open to the public. It’s often closed to limit numbers but they decide on conditions on the day itself. Weather is a factor. So is the presence of a cruise ship that might bring too many people on the grass paths. Impressive stone circle. From memory, far more impressive than Stonehenge or Callanish on the Outer Hebrides. Then onwards to Stromness, over a low hill and with the lump that is Hoy now dominating the view, a trundle through Stromness. What’s not to like? Beautiful little coastal town that – minus the cars on the narrow flagged street that runs almost as far as the campsite – could host a period film crew within minutes. Look forward to exploring more over the weekend. Is the museum worth £7.50? I’d be interested to know. Campsite location is fabulous, but exposed. It’s a busy place so choice of pitches was limited. I’m bang in the middle with limited (well, no…) shelter. If the wind picks up I could be in trouble. At least the view’s nice. As for the sign about the ‘walking and cycling friendly road’, surely it would be a lot more friendly if they changed the 40 for a 30 or even a 20… Tomorrow I might venture up the Khyber Pass (watch the video).

The Northern Isles: Day 8 – Kirkwall

I had low expectations for Kirkwall but actually it’s an interesting place. Certainly enough to keep me busy for a day. The cathedral was particularly impressive, as were the views looking down from the crumbling Bishop’s Palace. Tomorrow: cycle to Stromness.

The Northern Isles: Day 7 – Levenwick To Lerwick

Glorious start to day 7, my final morning on Shetland and the weather held to take in a visit to St Ninian’s Isle on the west coast of the Sumburgh peninsula. (Slightly marred by the collection of junk – including caravans and campervans – on the mainland side of the tombolo…) A relatively short (28 km) wind-assisted ride north brought me back to my starting point, Lerwick. A ‘small’ cruise ship (just 1,000 people rather than the 6,000 people that some ships can bring) was in town and Wanda’s belt drive provoked the usual spike of interest from passing ship-bound tourists. I met for coffee with Cycling UK’s newly appointed project coordinator on Shetland. An interesting chat! Then the very bumpy ferry to Kirkwall on Orkney. A late-night 4 km dash in the rain brought me (and several others) to the SYHA hostel. A former military base no less. My main preoccupation today is to find the local laundrette. I need some clean clothes… Tomorrow I will cycle west to Stromness for a final three nights of camping.

The Northern Isles: Day 6 – Scalloway To Sumburgh Head

A very different day from the previous two. Although quite misty and damp when leaving Scalloway, the rain all but held off. Just a few short showers in the morning and gradually the sun started shining. Never quite wall-to-wall blue sky but on occasions you could actually believe it was August. The road south in the direction of Sumburgh was another busy A road and there was a very close pass but that aside the traffic didn’t detract too much from the increasingly interesting scenery. Much nicer down here than up on bleak Yell. I paused at the campsite to erect the tent and continued sans panniers to the head. Crossing an airport runway was a novelty (although I have done this before when entering Gibraltar) and the road to the head itself – and the lighthouse – were delightful. Spectacular even once the lighthouse had been reached. A fabulous room framed the views perfectly. Superfluous on a day like today but often, no doubt, essential. Tomorrow I return to Lerwick and the ferry to Orkney. Before I leave Shetland, I’m hoping to visit nearby St Ninian’s ‘Isle’.

The Northern Isles: Day 5 – Brae To Scalloway

It rained. The wind blew. I got very wet.

The Northern Isles: Day 4 – Unst To Brae

Definitely type 2 fun today. Glad the cycling is over. The island of Yell is a bleak, unforgiving place. Very few traditional ‘attractions’ other than the vast expanse of remote moor. I spent much of the day cycling across it. Perhaps in normal times, an enjoyable slog. Today was not normal although probably more normal than I give it credit for. A relentless headwind. I’ve been anticipating it for days but when confronted, it’s only ‘fun’ when reflecting upon the experience in the local fish and chip shop – Frankie’s no less (it is, apparently, famous) – replenishing the body with calories. It has given returning to the mainland of Shetland extra meaning. I feel as though I have found civilisation again… There is, however, more wind to come tomorrow as I make my way south to Levenwick in the south where I will stay for two nights on the campsite.

The Northern Isles: Day 3 – Unst

I cycled to the northerly point on the National Cycle Network today. It’s beside a beautiful beach called Wick of Saw (see map below). It’s actually no longer on the National Cycle Network as Sustrans removed the designation of route 1 from the cycle route than runs up the spine of Shetland (as it’s an A road) but there you go… The sign marking the point is still there. Weather better today: just a few short heavy rain sheets encouraged by the wind. Talking of which, it was a battle after turning around and heading south back to the hostel…

The Northern Isles: Day 2 – Lerwick To Unst

A long – at times very wet – day in the saddle. The original plan was only to cycle to the southern side of Yell but I arrived at the ferry to Yell by late morning so it made sense to continue. More rain fell as I cycled towards the second ferry to Unst… but what a place to stay!

The Northern Isles: Day 1 – Lerwick

An early arrival in Lerwick after an on-off night of ‘sleep’ on the ferry. Four seasons (well, at least three) in one day but predominantly dry. Visited the main attractions of Lerwick which included a large short ride around the impressive headland at Knab Point. The museum was interesting; the deep fried halloumi in the café upstairs delicious. Now back at the ‘best hostel in the world’ (2011/12) to plan tomorrow’s ride north.

The Northern Isles: Day 0

Arrived in Lerwick this morning after a night on the ferry. Day 1 is half-way over but here’s a look back at Day 0: the journey from Yorkshire to Aberdeen and the ferry to Shetland…

Wild About Bikepacking: Mull, Jura, Islay And Bute

The new Bikepacking Argyll’s Islands route, created by Bikepacking Scotland and commissioned by CalMac Ferries and Wild About Argyll, maps a 496km-journey (308 miles) connecting the Isles of Mull, Jura, Islay and Bute on a mixture of gravel tracks, singletrail, cycle paths and roads. The route also makes great use of ScotRail’s Highland Explorer, which provides space for up to 20 bikes, including tandems. The newly introduced train carriage offers a bike-friendly train connection between Glasgow, host city of the UCI Cycling World Championships in 2023, and Oban, where the new route begins. Bikes travel free on trains and all ferries along the route.

The Outer Hebrides… On A Bike Called Wanda: The Film!

Britain offers some amazing places to explore on a bicycle, but there can be few locations within the UK that offer the remoteness, drama and sheer spectacle of the islands of The Outer Hebrides. The Hebridean Way takes cyclists from Vatersay in the south to the Butt of Lewis in the north: “10 islands, 6 causeways, 2 ferries and 1 unforgettable adventure”. The writer Andrew P. Sykes attempted the ride in the summer of 2021. This is his story.

The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 039 – Part 2 – The Hebridean Way… On A Bike Called Wanda (Harris And Lewis)

In episode 038 of The Cycling Europe Podcast, Andrew Sykes spoke to a number of travellers about their experiences of cycling The Hebridean Way. Now it’s his turn to get onto his bicycle, Wanda, and cycle from Vatersay in the south to Lewis in the north along one of Britain’s most spectacular rides. In part 1 of this episode of the podcast he travelled from the island of Vatersay to the island of Berneray. In this second part of the podcast we see him complete his journey across the Isles of Harris and Lewis to the Butt of Lewis and the end of the Hebridean Way.

The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 039 – Part 1 – The Hebridean Way… On A Bike Called Wanda (Vatersay To Berneray)

In episode 038 of The Cycling Europe Podcast, Andrew Sykes spoke to a number of travellers about their experiences of cycling The Hebridean Way. Now it’s his turn to get onto his bicycle, Wanda, and cycle from Vatersay in the south to Harris in the north along one of Britain’s most spectacular rides. In part 1 of the podcast he travels from the island of Vatersay to the island of Berneray. Part 2 of the podcast will see him complete his journey to the Butt of Lewis and it will be published on Sunday 19th September 2021.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: The Stats

I’m now in Glasgow and heading back to Yorkshire later this afternoon. Time to look back on the past two weeks. Here are some Hebridean Way statistics (including travel to / from the Outer Hebrides).

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 12

Another interesting day on the road, and back on the rails… It’s been day two of my three-day return to Halifax and not without incident nor cycling (which is why you are here I assume). Indeed there was just over 50 km of the stuff followed by a long two-stage journey back to Glasgow. That’s where today finished but it started back in Ullapool…

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 11

Not much text today, the story is told once again in video and photographic form. Highlight of my visit to Stornoway must surely be the excellent museum next to Lews Castle. Well with a visit if only to see the Lewis Chessmen, or some of them; the pesky British Museum are at it again keeping hold over the other 90 or so…

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 10

Today was a bit of a transitory day; moving from the business of cycling the Hebridean Way to thinking about the long journey back home. But it did have its moments, starting with a 6am paddle / wash in the sea. That was an envigorating way to start the day. I returned to the tent to make coffee but within minutes the tent had been surrounded by… cows! They can be dangerous animals so with this thought in mind, my tent was packed up in record time and I was heading – tentatively – towards the gate.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 9

A memorable end to the day, wild camping next to the beach, crashing waves and the setting sun at the north-western extremity of the Outer Hebrides. Perhaps even Britain. I arrived at the Butt of Lewis at around 4pm, the end of the Hebridean Way. My only regret that they didn’t manage to place the metal sign to mark the end of the route in a more photogenically accommodating position…

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 8

The headline of today is that, such was my progress on the bike, I am within 40km of the Butt of Lewis. And such was the weather today that, frankly, who wouldn’t want to cycle across some of Britain’s most spectacular landscapes to get to this point? My plan had been minimal; head north along the Hebridean Way and sort out accommodation later. That’s a formula that has never let me down and (spoiler alert) it didn’t do so today. I am now happily fed and watered on the small, friendly but quite busy site at Shawbost on the western side of Lewis.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Horgabost

Here’s the plan for my trip to the Outer Hebrides… …and here’s a podcast I made about cycling the Hebridean Way prior to setting off: More episodes of The Cycling Europe Podcast can be found on this page of CyclingEurope.org. And finally, since you’ve made it this far, […]

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 7

Tonight’s instalment of this trip to the Outer Hebrides will be brought to you mainly through the medium of video. Someone asked why I didn’t add a narration to these videos. Well, it adds an extra level of complexity to do so but, as the wind today was light (anything above a gentle breeze causes horrible distortion on the iPhone microphone), I’ve added a few comments as you’ll hear when you listen.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 6

Of all the islands that I have so far visited on this trip, the island of North Uist has been the least unexpected. That’s not a criticism, just an acceptance that what I cycled through today gave me pretty much all the things that come to mind when […]

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 5

Things have turned. In one way for the worse but in others for the better. Not that what preceded day 5 had been bad to turn against but you know what I mean… As I type I’m holed up in a small – minute one might say (‘snug’ an estate agent would say) – wooden shed on the south-western edge of South Uist but let me take you back to the start of the day at the campsite on Benbecula…

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 4

It’s been difficult to fault the Outer Hebrides so far (as you will continue to discover below). Only one very modern facet of life has let me down; mobile data coverage. Uploading text like this isn’t a problem. Photos need 3G and video needs 4G. Why am I telling you all this? Well, you may find that the usual mix of text, images and video (that you have become accustomed over the years…) takes a few days to upload. Today, North Uist offered me a Vodafone 4G signal so, for the first tome since arriving on Barra, I was able to upload videos. You may want to look again at the previous two posts to watch those videos before you read this. (And come back to this post tomorrow or the day after for today’s video…) On with the show!

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 3

I compared notes with my fellow wild campers this morning. None of us had slept particularly well on the dunes beside the beach at Vatersay. I think for all four of us it was a combination of the winds, a little rain but also middle age. When I opened the flap of the tent at around 6am the sun was shining, just. It had managed to pierce its way through a break in the thick clouds that were, on and off, continuing to deliver light showers. It was a sunrise, of sorts. What wasn’t ‘of sorts’ was the location. It is almost as if the tourist authorities behind the creation of the Hebridean Way had ordered a spectacular place for their ride to start and it had been delivered with enthusiasm.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 2

I had a good night’s sleep in my private room at the youth hostel. I was fearing that the ride from the train station to the accommodation last night might involve a hill; it didn’t. Far from it. Just a gentle cycle beside the harbour wall. The Rough Guide claimed it would be “a fair trek with a backpack from the ferry terminal [to the youth hostel]” but I can only imagine the authors have rarely hiked any distance with a backpack. A ‘fair trek’ it wasn’t. Mercifully. They also claim that the climb to McCaig’s Tower requires a “stiff ten-minute climb” from the centre of time. Again, they were stretching the point. I’ll let you know what they think about the Hebridean Way…

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Day 1

Trains. Three of them today to kick off this journey to the Western Isles. As I type I’m sitting in the third train which is rattling it’s way along the West Highland line towards my destination for the day, Oban. But back to this morning, or rather, last night.

Cycling The Hebridean Way: Teaser Video

Cycling The Hebridean Way: The Kit

I have to admit that these kinds of photographic displays of kit have, in recent, years become very much of a cliché, but they are fun to make and someone out there in the ether may find them of use. For most people they provide amusement and, perhaps more often, bemusement (“why the hell is he taking that with him???!!”). Below, in excessive detail (it wasn’t a busy day…), you’ll find set out most of what I will be taking with me when I travel to the Outer Hebrides early next week to ride the length of the Hebridean Way.

The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 038 – Cycling The Hebridean Way

Britain offers some amazing places to explore on a bicycle, but there can be few locations within the UK that offer the remoteness, drama and sheer spectacle of the islands of The Outer Hebrides. The Hebridean Way guides cyclists  from Vatersay in the south to the Butt of Lewis in the north: “10 islands, 6 causeways, 2 ferries and 1 unforgettable adventure”. In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, writers, travellers and cyclists reflect upon their experiences of cycling The Hebridean Way. The chief executive of the local tourist board is also on hand to offer his advice.

Cycling The Outer Hebrides: The ‘Ready-To-Pounce’ Plan

So… the Outer Hebrides. I have posted two articles recently about my proposed cycle along the Hebridean Way and, after a nice ride over the Pennine moors this afternoon, I am in the mood for adding a little flesh to the bones of my plan. It’s all weather-dependant of course. I have no wish to travel to the north-western corner of the British Isles if the outlook is not looking that great (I learnt my lesson the hard way back in the ‘summer’ of 2014…) but, whenever I do decide to go, I need to be able to pounce with a plan!

Question: The Outer Hebrides? Answer…

A few days ago, I posted an article to CyclingEurope.org about the possibility of visiting The Outer Hebrides this coming summer and cycling the Hebridean Way. The response was one of the best that any article on CyclingEurope.org has ever received. On the website itself and on social media, the comments came in thick and fast and such were their quality that they merit a post of their own. They are collated below but before you read them, I suggest you first of all read the original post that was published on May 23rd.

Summer 2021: The Outer Hebrides?

A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned that I had been sent a copy of The Great British Adventure Map. It’s now on my wall in such a position where, every morning, I spend a few minutes staring at it as I shave. Such is the level of detail that it’s the kind of map that will see me shave my chin many hundreds of times before I have exhausted its facts and figures. In recent days, however, my eyes have been drawn north. North west to be precise to a corner of the map that has had me examining the Outer Hebrides…

Cycling From Dumbarton To Strathisla Distillery For MND Scotland

My name is Jon Hunter and in 2010 I bought an Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op Revolution Pathfinder over the internet after wanting to get back into cycling. The last time I rode a bicycle, I used it for delivering newspapers as a child! I rode the bike for quite a while until the pressures of family, young children and work reluctantly saw me put the bike in the shed to be ridden at a later date. I didn’t realise how later that date would be.