Yesterday was a blissful day on the bike. The new Ribble performed to perfection, the ride was challenging, the scenery was stunning, the weather played ball, I loved the National Trust pod where I was staying and I finished the day with a couple of beers and my favourite ‘on tour’ meal.
A memorable summer solstice. I was up early. (I always am.) Beautiful morning. Coffee brewed, I drove into Ambleside for the ParkRun. A friendly affair with far more ‘tourists’ than your average ParkRun. I chatted to a few others and then we were off! A creditable 25:42, only […]
It’s been a funny old year. A year of changes in my life. I have – in mid-life (if I survive to 112 that is…) – become a lot fitter. I have become a ParkRun regular. I ran the Leeds 10k in 53 minutes, 39 seconds last Sunday. […]
It’s nearly two weeks since I took delivery of my n+1, the Ribble CGR Ti Enthusiast and last Sunday I headed out for my first ride.It is an impressive bike and the 30km jaunt up and around the local hills was a perfect shakedown for a bicycle that I have christened Rita. The suggestion came from my sister-in-law and I don’t know why I didn’t think of it myself. The bike is a Ribble Titanium so it is an obvious choice. Although the gearing ratio is not quite as forgiving as my other Ribble, Ronnie, such is the lightness of the CGR Ti, I was speeding up the hills at a pace that I have rarely if ever achieved before. The Strava segments where I achieved a PR are multiple (see below).
Cycling contact Simon Johnson sent through a link to this video a few days ago. We tend to think we innovate in cycling but much of what we do is simply reinventing the past. Off-road adventure cycling is nothing new… “Join Big Jim Collie – a Scottish crofter who lives alone in a bothy in the foothills of the Cairngorms – as he embarks on one of his epic cross-highland trips. Jim is on his way to Braemar, which is 60 miles away – if you plan on sticking to the roads. Luckily, Big Jim knows a shortcut through the Lairig Ghru – the highest mountain pass in the highest mountain range in Britain – that brings the journey down to a more manageable 22 miles, albeit over some of the harshest terrain in Scotland. Fortunately, Big Jim has a secret weapon; the Lairig Flyer, a rickety old bicycle. Furthermore, he has a wealth of experience – this is his 105th crossing of the Lairig Ghru. Perhaps most importantly of all, he has strategically stashed an armful of whisky bottles along the route – just the thing to keep his spirits up.”
One of the most frequent questions I’m asked about cycle touring is ‘how do you keep your bike safe from being stolen?’. Ultimately, you can’t. However there are some sensible things that you can do to make it more difficult for someone to whip off with your bike. Towards the end of last year, Roger Adams emailed me asking the question. He is preparing to head off to Normandy and Brittany to do some cycle-camping and had discovered my online content about the 2022 cycle around France. He’s just ome back to me with a reply to what I sent him and I went back to read my own email from January (as I had forgotten what I’d written). It makes sense to share my thoughts here. How do I keep my bike safe?
I mentioned last weekend that I would be featured in the June/July edition of Cycling UK’s Cycle Magazine. The editor, Dan Joyce, asked me to contribute to a piece he was putting together about the different syles of cycle tourer. He has described me as a ‘European-style tourer’ which seems fair enough. If you are a member of Cycling UK, hopefully you will enjoy the read. I encouraged you in that initial post to look out for the kit lists. Dan Joyce has just sent through a copy of the full article and it is indeed interesting comparing the four kit lists.
I’m not sure how these lists are put together but it’s nice to be included in them. This one – compiled by ‘Million Podcasts’ – puts The Cycling Europe Podcast at number 8 in a list of 15 (or is that 13?). Not bad for someone working from his spare bedroom… The other podcasts listed may be of more interest. It’s always surprised me that, bearing in mind the number of people out there who are cycling long distances, how few have whipped out their smart phones and recorded a podcast. It’s not that difficult folks!
I inevitable get to a point with the bicycles that I have bought that I need to know exactly what bits of equipment they have been built with. However, when I do, the bike manufacturers have moved on, upgraded, or perhaps even abandoned the model I have purchased and I struggle to easily identify the exact part description. In light of this, what follows is more for my benefit than yours.
At some point in the not-too-distant future, CyclingEurope.org will publish its 4,000th post. That’s since August 2008. The website has published at least one post in every single month since April 2009 but in recent times, they have been thin on the ground. There’s a drop-down menu over there on the right and you’ll see that in the first five months of 2025 there have been just 15 published articles, and a few of those come under the ‘sponsored’ banner (that keeps CyclingEurope.org afloat financially, along with the admittedly annoying adverts…). But summer is approaching fast and, following on from the previous post, I can reveal that I have indeed ordered ny n+1, a Ribble CGR Ti Enthusiast bike. Hopefully this injection of new kit into my small collection of bicycles will inspire me to start posting more regularly on the site.
When I was in the Yorkshire Dales with Wanda, my touring bike, a few weeks ago, I reflected on my ‘need’ (‘desire’ would perhaps be a better word) for a bicycle that would serve a different purpose other than long-distance touring or commuting and relatively short rides in my local area. I have three bikes at the moment, only two of which are rideable.
Last week, as the weather forecast was looking so promising, I decided to head to the nearby Yorkshire Dales for a couple of nights of early-season cycle touring. Camping in April in the UK is not for the fainthearted (although I’m sure many people reading this will have camped multiple times in the depths of winter) but the daytime temperatures of around 20 degrees made up for the chilly mornings and evenings.
Cycling is a dynamic form of cardio that many actively enjoy. However, if you’ve been cycling for a long time, you’ve probably dealt with knee pain in varying degrees. Cycling can be mild on the joints, but frequent trips might lead to some discomfort. Thankfully, there are ways to ensure your knees stay healthy and ready to carry you along your next cycle. Here are some ways you can avoid knee pain as an active cyclist.
Andrew Sykes heads into the Yorkshire Dales for a few days and this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast sees him travel from Bradford to Skipton, Appletreewick, Grassington and Buckden, via a canal and a couple of steep hills. Much of this episode, however, is given over to other cyclists who have recently contributed to the podcast in the form of a monologue. We hear from Justin Shiels about Welcome To My Garden, Neal Porter about his cycle around the coast of Britain in aid of MND and from Richard and Cath Jeffries about their winter LEJOG…
Andrew Sykes heads into the Yorkshire Dales for a few days and this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast sees him travel from Bradford to Skipton, Appletreewick, Grassington and Buckden, via a canal and a couple of steep hills. Much of this episode, however, is given over to other cyclists who have recently contributed to the podcast in the form of a monologue. We hear from Justin Shiels about Welcome To My Garden, Neal Porter about his cycle around the coast of Britain in aid of MND and from Richard and Cath Jeffries about their winter LEJOG…
Over the years, many people have asked why there isn’t an audio book version of any of the books I have written. Well, I’d love to say that I had the time, resources and technical know-how required to embark upon such a feat. I can cope with making podcasts which don’t require stringent adherence to technical standards and in which my ropey diction can be forgiven (hopefully) by the listeners. But an audio book? I have tried on occasions to record something but I’m no Stephen Fry. The attempts have been quickly abandoned. However, I have news…
February and March have been a quiet couple of months here on CyclingEurope.org. Indeed in March there was just the one update to the website and even then it was all about, err… hiring cars at Tirana airport in Albania. (I have to pay the website fees somehow…) But it’s now April and things are beginning to warm up, metaphorically and literally.
Upon arrival in Tirana, the capital of Albania, the question arises: “How to get to the hotel and quickly move around the city?”. Renting a car at Tirana Airport on the website roscar.al will help with this. What is the advantage of such a rental? The advantages of online ordering are impressive and wide-ranging.
Jacob Lemanski tells the story of his epic ride around the world, twice, and how it has inspired him to retell the tale in his own series of podcasts as well as in ‘ant art’. Keep listening and all will be explained…
Jacob Lemanski tells the story of his epic ride around the world, twice, and how it has inspired him to retell the tale in his own series of podcasts as well as in ‘ant art’. Keep listening and all will be explained…
Europe offers a diverse range of landscapes, from rolling hills and coastal paths to mountainous terrain and urban settings, which makes it the ideal choice for a holiday on two wheels. With its well-developed cycling infrastructure and rich cultural heritage to explore on-route, Europe is a dream destination for cyclists of all abilities.
It’s January. It’s cold. I spent much of yesterday evening watching Alan Carr and Amanda Holden renovating a house in Andalucia in southern Spain under the cloudless blue skies of summer. Do we have to wait for another six months before venturing south on our bikes? Well, no… and an email from Jannifer Margison provides some evidence that we should consider Spain in the winter too. Along with her husband, she is currently cycling in southern Spain for the second winter on the trot. Her website is worth visiting. If it weren’t for the fact that I have to work five days a week, I might be jumping on the next ferry and joining her…
Regular listeners to The Cycling Europe Podcast will once again see some familiar names on the list of participants in this year’s virtual Cycle Touring Festival. From Markus Stitz to Sophie Gordon, from Joanna Chmara to Rob Ainsley. Just four of the many speakers at the event which takes place from Monday 3rd to Sunday 9th February. Along with Tim sanders, I’ll be giving a talk about my experience cycling in Shetland and Orkney in the summer of 2024. Here’s some more information from Laura Moss, one of the organisers:
Blue Monday? Not Here… All Books Now Just £2.99 (eBook) Or £11.99 (Paperback)
Happy New Year 2025!
Joel Stokoe discusses his experiences of cycling on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus and Steve Cuthbertson recounts the story of his journey from Romania back to his home in southern England in aid of charity.
Joel Stokoe discusses his experiences of cycling on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus and Steve Cuthbertson recounts the story of his journey from Romania back to his home in southern England in aid of charity.
A couple of weeks ago I published a post to the website about a route in France called La Régalante that linked Mont-Saint Michel with Nantes on a cross country route that was a more direct alternative to cycling along the Vélomaritime and then the Vélodyssée as I had done on my ‘Grand Tour’ back in 2022. It was promted by an email from Nick Gilford and indeed much of the article was written by him. I have linked to the orginal article at the foot of this post.
It is only now a matter of days until three become four and the new book – Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda – is published. The date is May 1st although you can already pre-order the eBook from Amazon if you want to start reading at midnight on the 1st! The paperback isn’t available to pre-order but rest assured that will also be available from May 1st. Initially you’ll have to go via Amazon to get hold of the book but Apple Books will also have the book available on iTunes, hopefully from May 1st. And if you’d like a signed copy, keep reading as these should be dispatched this very weekend, several days before the official publication!
A few years ago I gave a talk near Sheffield about cycling from Spain to Norway. In 2025 I’ve been invited back, this time to talk about Le Grand Tour. Thanks to Paddy Ducey for organising the event that will take place on the evening of Saturday March 1st. Pie and peas included! Tickets available from Paddy: email paddyducey@hotmail.com
Planning your next cycling adventure? Discover iconic routes that promise unforgettable experiences in 2025. From Alpine passes in Europe to South American wilderness trails, these carefully selected journeys offer everything from beginner-friendly coastal rides to challenging mountain expeditions. Here’s your comprehensive guide to the year’s most extraordinary cycling destinations.
When I cycled my ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe back in 2022, I made use of several of the French named routes that have been developped by France Vélo Toursime in recent years; La Velomaritime, L’Avenue Verte, La Vélodyssée, La Via Rhôna plus a couple of others. They are generally excellent and a real effort has been made by the authorities across France to put infrastructure in place to make for easy route finding on predominantly off-road paths. Each of the routes has a dedicayed website with GPS tracks, tourist information and accommodation options etc…
Sophie Gordon of Cycling UK discusses the development of the organisation’s off-road routes including the newest of the eight routes, The Marcher Castles Way.
Sophie Gordon of Cycling UK discusses the development of the organisation’s off-road routes including the newest of the eight routes, The Marcher Castles Way.
A few years ago, Ian Street, Leeds’ leading welshman, organised what he called the Leeds Bicycle Film Club. I used to travel over once a month to watch the films that he curated and which were shown in the projection room of a pub just outside the city centre. Cycling films form a rich genre of celluloid splendour, although what quite contitues a ‘cycling film’ is a grey area. Ultimately, who cares? The events were good fun and usually involved beer so what’s not to like?
Should you ever choose to send me an email, try to send it later in the week – Thursday or Friday is highly recommended – as I tend to reply to emails on a Saturday morning. If you send an email later today or tomorrow, you’ll have to wait a few more days for a reply. Anyway, replying to emails is what I’ve just been doing; I have made a few more arrangements to give a talk in Nottinghamshire in March 2025 (more of that soon), I have offered my humble words of wisdom to a cycling-writer in Cyprus and responded to some kind feedback on the books and the podcasts from a Scottish chap who now lives in New Zealand. I’ve also replied to a woman – who I suspect lives in North America – regarding official information about the Canal des 2 Mers à Vélo cycle route in France. She appeared to have made the rather dangerous assumption that this website was in some way ‘official’ as opposed to the random ramblings of a middle-aged British cycle tourist.
If you are seeking an active holiday, Austria is the perfect destination. Austria has a huge range of fun activities for all interests and fitness levels, as well as stunning natural beauty, rich culture, friendly locals, and much more. Keep reading for advice on planning an active holiday here to make the most of your trip and have an authentic Austrian experience.
As I sit here at home on a Sunday evening contemplating the return to work in the morning (albeit with a potential ‘snow day’ to look forward to on Tuesday…) waiting for the gas engineer to arrive to service the boiler (yes, he works on Sundays!), this film from Markus Stitz has, for ten minutes, transported me to summer on the opposite side of the Atlantic; Canada to be precise. Quebec to be even more precise and a 1,350 km cycle from Matane to Gaspé… Perfect Sunday evening watching. More details from Markus below the film.
The 41st Vuelta al Ecuador will delight cycling enthusiasts from November 11th to November 17th, 2024. It will have stages representing the different features of Ecuador’s topography and a strong immersion in rich culture through its challenging course. The Vuelta al Ecuador gives the dedicated fan an avenue for making bets. Team strategies, individual performances, and the profile of stages offer useful insights that could make informed wagers.
The perfect Christmas gift for any enthusiastic cyclist, lover of travel or ‘Labour leftie”… More details at CyclingEurope.org/Books
Whether you’re a leisurely rider or a serious cyclist, exploring a city by bike provides a uniquely immersive way to connect with local life and culture. Many European cities offer extensive paths, bike-friendly infrastructure and even guided routes to showcase their highlights. If you’re intending to explore Europe on two wheels, the four cities we’ve shared below should be on your shortlist.
In the early autumn of 2023, at the start of a year-long sabbatical from work, Johnny Murtagh cycled from his home in southern England to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. “But the real story isn’t just the journey itself – it’s the incredible group of people I met along the way. A motley crew from all corners of the world, each with their own unique reasons for being there, and together we shared unforgettable moments.” He spoke to The Cycling Europe Podcast about his memorable experiences as a cycling peregrino and his new group of fellow-minded friends.
In the early autumn of 2023, at the start of a year-long sabbatical from work, Johnny Murtagh cycled from his home in southern England to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. “But the real story isn’t just the journey itself – it’s the incredible group of people I met along the way. A motley crew from all corners of the world, each with their own unique reasons for being there, and together we shared unforgettable moments.” He spoke to The Cycling Europe Podcast about his memorable experiences as a cycling peregrino and his new group of fellow-minded friends.
Since this website was created back in 2008 – over 16 years ago (scary!) – I’ve been contacted by hundreds of people asking questions, offering advice and giving their opinions. One of the first people to contact me was Chris Hammersley. In 2009 he was planning to travel along a similar route to my own in 2010 from the UK to the south of Italy. From memory, I think he ended up travelling a few weeks behind me. In fact he did! I’ve just been trawling through the CyclingEurope.org archive and he set off on August 9th 2010. And I’m delighted to see that the website that he set up 15 years ago is still going strong!
The original plan was to cycle the length of Japan in the summer of 2020. It never happened. It didn’t hapen in 2021 and by the time summer of 2022 had arrived I had made other plans: Le Grand Tour was the result. 2023 and 2024 were dedicated to writing the book and it’s only now, in the autumn of 2024, that my mind occasionally wanders back to thoughts of cycling in the land of the rising sun. My large paper map of Japan was probably relegated to the ‘Japan’ section of my bookshelf at some point in late 2021 when it became increasingly apparent that COVID-induced travel restrictions were still lingering in the Far East. A few minutes ago, I took down the map of Europe and reinstated the map of Japan. A small, but significant step towards reviving my plans to cycle the length of Japan. Kind of… There’s a problem.
“A cycling book with great insight, humor and self-irony! In conclusion, it must be pointed out that the book naturally requires a certain amount of English skills to get the full benefit, not least on the humorous level… Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda is a classy exponent of a cycling story that can get other than just hardcore adventure cyclists on the steel horse!”
Europe offers a diverse range of landscapes, from rolling hills and coastal paths to mountainous terrain and urban settings, which makes it the ideal choice for a holiday on two wheels. With its well-developed cycling infrastructure and rich cultural heritage to explore on-route, Europe is a dream destination for cyclists of all abilities.
I see that Cycling UK have just launched another of their routes. This one straddles the English-Welsh border and has been named the Marcher Castles Way. The route – there are now eight of them in total – appear to be aimed more at the bikepacker than the traditional cycle tourist. I wonder how feasible it is to ride them with a pannier set-up on a touring bike rather than a mountain bike and ‘packs’. Looking carefully at the videos and the photos, the surfaces seem to be OK. They remind me of cycling along the Yorkshire coast a few years back from Scarborough to Whitby. Any thoughts?
With his partner, Maudi, Dutch cyclist Eric has cycled the World. He was initially inspired to set off on two wheels by Peter Gostelow and his ‘Big Africa Cycle’. Via their popular Wheels to Wander YouTube Channel, Eric and Maudi now inspire others with their engaging filmed travelogues and practical advice videos. Eric joined the podcast to reflect on his years in the saddle…
With his partner, Maudi, Dutch cyclist Eric has cycled the World. He was initially inspired to set off on two wheels by Peter Gostelow and his ‘Big Africa Cycle’. Via their popular Wheels to Wander YouTube Channel, Eric and Maudi now inspire others with their engaging filmed travelogues and practical advice videos. Eric joined the podcast to reflect on his years in the saddle…
Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda – Amazon.co.uk
“This is a very enjoyable record of Andrew Sykes’s latest adventure, and it presented me with opportunity to meet his new bike, Wanda – the successor to Reggie. I found Andrew’s everyday accounts of interactions with people the most compelling elements of the book, as I do with any good piece of travel writing.”
Cycling has been a highly popular sport in Europe for many decades; the sport is followed by several millions of fans, especially huge events such as the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Vuelta a España. Nowadays, the enthusiasm goes beyond observing races to placing bets on cycling. Online sportsbooks- similar to those utilized in the online casino world new ways of betting on cycling have made the sport a growing part of the sports betting world in Europe.
After a week on Shetland (listen to part 1 of this two-part podcast), The Cycling Europe Podcast takes the late-night ferry south to Kirkwall on the islands of Orkney. Following a day spent exploring the capital, Andrew Sykes cycles west for three nights of camping in the historic town of Stromness. From here he heads first to Hoy, home to the spectacular beach and cliffs at Rackwick and the Scapa Flow Museum where he discovers more about the wartime importance of the deep water harbour. After spending a day off the bike investigating the delights of Stromness itself, Andrew cycles off on a journey around the mainland taking in prehistoric Skara Brae and the bucolic Brough of Birsay before a return to Kirkwall and his ferry home via Aberdeen.
After a week on Shetland (listen to part 1 of this two-part podcast), The Cycling Europe Podcast takes the late-night ferry south to Kirkwall on the islands of Orkney. Following a day spent exploring the capital, Andrew Sykes cycles west for three nights of camping in the historic town of Stromness. From here he heads first to Hoy, home to the spectacular beach and cliffs at Rackwick and the Scapa Flow Museum where he discovers more about the wartime importance of the deep water harbour. After spending a day off the bike investigating the delights of Stromness itself, Andrew cycles off on a journey around the mainland taking in prehistoric Skara Brae and the bucolic Brough of Birsay before a return to Kirkwall and his ferry home via Aberdeen.
Depressingly good video. Ian Walker – alumni of The Cycling Europe Podcast – is the principle contributor. Essential watching. But probably not for you…
To find the best cycling routes in Île de Ré, you must consider the difficulty level and the opportunities for sightseeing offered by each option. Continue reading this post for further details.
It’s September 1st, 2024, marking the start of autumn and “la rentrée” in France. I reflect on upcoming challenges at work and school, along with cycling plans, potentially riding the length of the Japanese archipelago in 2025. Contemplating alternatives closer to home, a European cycling route, EuroVelo 10 and EuroVelo 7, emerges as a potential rival.
The Cycling Europe Podcast travels to the most northerly islands of Britain for a week of camping, hostelling and cycling. Renowned for its wild beauty, but also its capricious weather, Andrew Sykes sets off on a ride that will stretch the entire length of the archipelago from Unst in the north to Sumburgh in the south taking time to explore the attractions, meet the locals and compare notes with fellow travellers as he cycles.
The Cycling Europe Podcast travels to the most northerly islands of Britain for a week of camping, hostelling and cycling. Renowned for its wild beauty, but also its capricious weather, Andrew Sykes sets off on a ride that will stretch the entire length of the archipelago from Unst in the north to Sumburgh in the south taking time to explore the attractions, meet the locals and compare notes with fellow travellers as he cycles.
The final day on Orkney and a journey around the west, north and east coast of the western wing of the mainland. Skara Brae was impressive – very well presented – but the Brough of Birsay was the highlight. A great place to sit and watch the world go by in front of a magnificent backdrop. Once back in Kirkwall, I bumped into other cycle tourists I had come to know a little in recent weeks for a drink and then meal. As I stand here in Aberdeen station, we have all gone our separate ways, homeward bound. Where next?
No cycling today. Just a slow wander along the flagged Main Street of Stromness and back again, via the Khyber Pass… Tomorrow is my final day, but it will be a long one as the ferry taking back to Aberdeen doesn’t leave Kirkwall until 23:45. I’m booked in to visit Skara Brae (11 km) at 11:30 and the Orkney Brewery is close by (4 km) leaving either a direct return to Kirkwall (30 km) or a cycle around the northern side of the mainland (50 km). I have plenty of time and will decide once I see how I feel leaving the brewery and / or the weather.
A bit windy tonight…
There was a strange – but welcome – calm outside the hostel this morning. Barely a whisper of wind. Alas this encouraged the midges to start hovering around me as I was preparing to leave. Then the wind picked up. The wind does have advantages… The plan was to cycle straight to Stromness. As ever, the plan changed as I took a quieter road from the southern coastline of the ‘mainland’ to cut across in the direction of the Ring of Brodgar. It was a lucky decision as it happened to be open to the public. It’s often closed to limit numbers but they decide on conditions on the day itself. Weather is a factor. So is the presence of a cruise ship that might bring too many people on the grass paths. Impressive stone circle. From memory, far more impressive than Stonehenge or Callanish on the Outer Hebrides. Then onwards to Stromness, over a low hill and with the lump that is Hoy now dominating the view, a trundle through Stromness. What’s not to like? Beautiful little coastal town that – minus the cars on the narrow flagged street that runs almost as far as the campsite – could host a period film crew within minutes. Look forward to exploring more over the weekend. Is the museum worth £7.50? I’d be interested to know. Campsite location is fabulous, but exposed. It’s a busy place so choice of pitches was limited. I’m bang in the middle with limited (well, no…) shelter. If the wind picks up I could be in trouble. At least the view’s nice. As for the sign about the ‘walking and cycling friendly road’, surely it would be a lot more friendly if they changed the 40 for a 30 or even a 20… Tomorrow I might venture up the Khyber Pass (watch the video).
I had low expectations for Kirkwall but actually it’s an interesting place. Certainly enough to keep me busy for a day. The cathedral was particularly impressive, as were the views looking down from the crumbling Bishop’s Palace. Tomorrow: cycle to Stromness.
Glorious start to day 7, my final morning on Shetland and the weather held to take in a visit to St Ninian’s Isle on the west coast of the Sumburgh peninsula. (Slightly marred by the collection of junk – including caravans and campervans – on the mainland side of the tombolo…) A relatively short (28 km) wind-assisted ride north brought me back to my starting point, Lerwick. A ‘small’ cruise ship (just 1,000 people rather than the 6,000 people that some ships can bring) was in town and Wanda’s belt drive provoked the usual spike of interest from passing ship-bound tourists. I met for coffee with Cycling UK’s newly appointed project coordinator on Shetland. An interesting chat! Then the very bumpy ferry to Kirkwall on Orkney. A late-night 4 km dash in the rain brought me (and several others) to the SYHA hostel. A former military base no less. My main preoccupation today is to find the local laundrette. I need some clean clothes… Tomorrow I will cycle west to Stromness for a final three nights of camping.
A very different day from the previous two. Although quite misty and damp when leaving Scalloway, the rain all but held off. Just a few short showers in the morning and gradually the sun started shining. Never quite wall-to-wall blue sky but on occasions you could actually believe it was August. The road south in the direction of Sumburgh was another busy A road and there was a very close pass but that aside the traffic didn’t detract too much from the increasingly interesting scenery. Much nicer down here than up on bleak Yell. I paused at the campsite to erect the tent and continued sans panniers to the head. Crossing an airport runway was a novelty (although I have done this before when entering Gibraltar) and the road to the head itself – and the lighthouse – were delightful. Spectacular even once the lighthouse had been reached. A fabulous room framed the views perfectly. Superfluous on a day like today but often, no doubt, essential. Tomorrow I return to Lerwick and the ferry to Orkney. Before I leave Shetland, I’m hoping to visit nearby St Ninian’s ‘Isle’.
It rained. The wind blew. I got very wet.
Definitely type 2 fun today. Glad the cycling is over. The island of Yell is a bleak, unforgiving place. Very few traditional ‘attractions’ other than the vast expanse of remote moor. I spent much of the day cycling across it. Perhaps in normal times, an enjoyable slog. Today was not normal although probably more normal than I give it credit for. A relentless headwind. I’ve been anticipating it for days but when confronted, it’s only ‘fun’ when reflecting upon the experience in the local fish and chip shop – Frankie’s no less (it is, apparently, famous) – replenishing the body with calories. It has given returning to the mainland of Shetland extra meaning. I feel as though I have found civilisation again… There is, however, more wind to come tomorrow as I make my way south to Levenwick in the south where I will stay for two nights on the campsite.
I cycled to the northerly point on the National Cycle Network today. It’s beside a beautiful beach called Wick of Saw (see map below). It’s actually no longer on the National Cycle Network as Sustrans removed the designation of route 1 from the cycle route than runs up the spine of Shetland (as it’s an A road) but there you go… The sign marking the point is still there. Weather better today: just a few short heavy rain sheets encouraged by the wind. Talking of which, it was a battle after turning around and heading south back to the hostel…
A long – at times very wet – day in the saddle. The original plan was only to cycle to the southern side of Yell but I arrived at the ferry to Yell by late morning so it made sense to continue. More rain fell as I cycled towards the second ferry to Unst… but what a place to stay!
An early arrival in Lerwick after an on-off night of ‘sleep’ on the ferry. Four seasons (well, at least three) in one day but predominantly dry. Visited the main attractions of Lerwick which included a large short ride around the impressive headland at Knab Point. The museum was interesting; the deep fried halloumi in the café upstairs delicious. Now back at the ‘best hostel in the world’ (2011/12) to plan tomorrow’s ride north.
Arrived in Lerwick this morning after a night on the ferry. Day 1 is half-way over but here’s a look back at Day 0: the journey from Yorkshire to Aberdeen and the ferry to Shetland…
Earlier this morning it was nice to see that Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda was topping the Amazon ‘cycling books’ chart, for a few hours at least. Readers continue to get in touch to pass on positive comments about what they have read, often via social media and often with a picture of the book (often, curiously, beside an alcoholic drink but I’ll try not to read too much into that). Miha Pavšič is in Slovenia and he chose to email me with some feedback and it was a delight to start the day by reading what he had to say:
Then I’ll begin… Doing a bit of Internet wandering, I stumble upon the YouTube channel of the Dutch cycling phenomenon that is Wheels to Wander, a young couple who are widely travelled across the globe. Indeed they have been recommended by many people as potential guests for The Cycling Europe Podcast. (Watch this space…) Unlike this website – which rarely recommends anything to anyone – the Wheels to Wander couple do write reviews and produce videos extolling the virtues (or lack thereof) of various bits of kit.
Scrolling through social media last night – currently a very sobering activity – I noticed a tweet from the environmental journalist and activist George Monbiot. It made reference to the weather here in the UK at the start of next week and included a picture (from the excellent Windy app). You can see the tweet below. George is ‘astonished’ and ‘concerned’. The screenshot shows a weather system over the sea to the west of Wales. I’m travelling to Shetland at the other end of the UK the following day. Should I be concerned myself?
“The Trans Dinarica is the first and only cycle route to connect all eight countries of the Western Balkans. The route — which links Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Serbia — makes a priority of visiting national parks, UNESCO sites, often-overlooked villages, and diverse points of interest. In other words, the Trans Dinarica takes travelers deep into one of the most interesting and under-valued European regions, where adventure and culture are always connected.”
Joanna Chmara is a cycle tourist from Poland. She runs the popular cycling website WobblyRide.com and has wide experience of travelling with her bike in the Balkans, Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, usually as a solo cyclist. In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, she explains what first motivated her to set off on two wheels and why the hardest part of many cycling journeys is not the mountains nor the seemingly endless hours in the saddle, but the simple act of pushing your bike over the threshold of your front door. She also offers invaluable advice to those who are feeling apprehensive about their first long ride as well as revealing her top three European destinations (as well as one that you need to avoid, at least on a bicycle…)
Joanna Chmara is a cycle tourist from Poland. She runs the popular cycling website WobblyRide.com and has wide experience of travelling with her bike in the Balkans, Eastern Europe and Scandinavia, usually as a solo cyclist. In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, she explains what first motivated her to set off on two wheels and why the hardest part of many cycling journeys is not the mountains nor the seemingly endless hours in the saddle, but the simple act of pushing your bike over the threshold of your front door. She also offers invaluable advice to those who are feeling apprehensive about their first long ride as well as revealing her top three European destinations (as well as one that you need to avoid, at least on a bicycle…)
Those of you who are members of Cycling UK will soon be receiving your copy of the bi-monthly magazine Cycle. It’s a cracking read and it comes as no surprise to discover that it is Britain’s most widely read cycling magazine. (If you don’t receive a copy, sign up to Cycling UK – it will cost you just £4 a month – and six times a year you’ll get your own copy delivered for free!) Back to the new edition of the magazine – August / September 2024 – that I have just been browsing online. It contains the usual eclectic mix of cycling-themed news, rides… and reviews.
Shetland and Orkney it is… Earlier this week I carefully pieced together five train journeys and three ferry journeys, the combination of which will see me travel to Aberdeen, then Lerwick on Shetland, then Kirkwall on Orkney and back to Aberdeen nearly two week later. Whilst on Shetland – 6 nights – and on Orkney – 5 nights – I will head out across the small Scottish archipelagos, camping when I can, to seek out the wild attractions of Britain’s most northerly outposts. Including the two nights on the overnight ferries to and from Aberdeen, it will 13 nights – 14 days – of adventure.
Renowned for an extensive portfolio of diverse historic and wine regions, the European continent is synonymous with winery culture and expertise. For a winery adventure that’s also active, consider combining the beloved European tradition of wine-sipping, with an active cycling retreat. Cascading greenery to roll down on two wheels, whilst learning the significance of wine production and culture. Blend the fun of culinary delights and movement magic, with a cycling tour amidst a wine region in Europe. Here is a guide to everything you need to know about this vacation, pre-departure.
Ahmedabad, the largest city in the Indian state of Gujarat, is a vibrant and dynamic metropolis that seamlessly blends the old with the new. Ahmedabad, the largest city in the Indian state of Gujarat, is a vibrant and dynamic metropolis that seamlessly blends the old with the new. As one traverses through its bustling streets, it becomes apparent that Ahmedabad is a city where history and modernity coexist in a harmonious dance. This historic city, with its rich cultural heritage and architectural marvels, awaits to be explored by travelers seeking a unique experience. For those planning their visit, finding convenient flights to Ahmedabad is the first step to embarking on this enriching journey.
Not having renewed my passport since it ran out in May, the answer will have to be ‘somewhere in the UK’. I return to work (school) six weeks tomorrow so I have a good amount of time to make any decision and execute a plan. I’m still toying with the idea of a trip to Shetland / Orkney but with the weather gods yet to make their minds up as to whether summer has indeed arrived, I’m reluctant to commit to a trip to the far north. The weather on the Outer Hebrides in August 2021 was reasonable to good. The weather along the north and west coast of Scotland in August 2014 was biblically dreadful. It’s always a lottery north of the border.
There are many great places to cycle in Europe. It depends on what you prefer, but it varies depending on the landscape and route. Whether you are an experienced cyclist or simply enjoy cycling as a recreational activity, there are many great places in Europe. In this article, you will find the best cycling routes in Europe that will surely give you the most unforgettable memories.
I woke up at the ridiculously early hour of 5am this morning (it’s the time I generally wake up during the week…), switched on the radio but rapidly switched it off again after listening to the news bulletin. Instead, I came to sit at the computer and typed ‘cycling’ into the seach function on BBC Sounds. Of the many suggestions in the list (some of which had nothing to do with cycling – recycling etc…), one stuck out. It was also the first one on the list as it had only been published on June 20th:
Where the familiarity of cycling’s past meets the innovation of the present, REDTED sets itself apart by introducing a unique collection of cycling jerseys that not only captures the essence of quality, but also tells a deep and moving story. This exclusive line of retro cycling jerseys pays homage to the cycling heroes of the past, bringing the spirit of historic cycling triumphs to today’s cyclists.
Scrolling through the archive of CyclingEurope.org (no mean feat as there are now getting on for 4,000 posts on here), I discover that I first attended Bespoked: The Handmade Bicycle Show back in 2013 when it was taking place in Bristol. Over a decade later, the show continues to take place but has been on its travels: to London and Germany and in 2024 to the Victoria Baths in Manchester. This morning, along with a cycling friend, I headed over the Pennines (in my friend’s Volvo rather than on our bikes…) to visit the show. Here are a few notes.
Shetland is the northernmost part of the United Kingdom, 170 km from mainland Scotland and only 220 km from the Norwegian coast. Of its 100 islands, only 15 are inhabited (by a population of just over 20,000) but according to the local tourist board, the remote archipelago “…has everything a cyclist could hope for”. Tim Sanders, Anne Lawther and Jayne Moore have all visited Shetland in recent months and the writer Martyn Howe has been a regular visitor over the years both on foot and by bike. The Cycling Europe Podcast asked all four travellers to recount their cycling experiences. Does Shetland really live up to the tourist hype? Anne, Jayne and Martyn also reflect upon their visits to nearby Orkney. How does it compare to its near-Nordic northern neighbour?
Shetland is the northernmost part of the United Kingdom, 170 km from mainland Scotland and only 220 km from the Norwegian coast. Of its 100 islands, only 15 are inhabited (by a population of just over 20,000) but according to the local tourist board, the remote archipelago “…has everything a cyclist could hope for”. Tim Sanders, Anne Lawther and Jayne Moore have all visited Shetland in recent months and the writer Martyn Howe has been a regular visitor over the years both on foot and by bike. The Cycling Europe Podcast asked all four travellers to recount their cycling experiences. Does Shetland really live up to the tourist hype? Anne, Jayne and Martyn also reflect upon their visits to nearby Orkney. How does it compare to its near-Nordic northern neighbour?
There is good news as well as bad. The bad news is that the word ‘cycling’ does not appear in either the Labour Party manifesto for the 2024 General Election nor the Conservative Party manifesto. It does appear twice in the Liberal Democrat manifesto and three times in the Green Party manifesto. Unsurprisingly, it doesn’t appear at all in the Reform Party manifesto. The SNP have yet to publish their manifesto. So compared to the last election in 2019, the two main parties – the ones that have a realistic prospect of forming the next government – have, it would seem, abandoned us altogether!
Writer Rob Ainsley has cycled from Barmouth to Yarmouth because they rhyme. He’s cycled from Britain’s smallest church in Rhos to its largest church in Liverpool. He’s cycled the London Monopoly board. And he continues to amass a long list of ‘end-to-end’ country cycles. So for Rob, cycling from Morecambe to Bridlington along the Way of the Roses cycle route may at first glance appear to be a little, err… pedestrian. But think again. He decided to cycle the route 1970s style. In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast we chat to Rob Ainsley in York where he reveals all. Was the naffest decade of the 20th century as good a time as any to be on two wheels? Or better forgotten…
Writer Rob Ainsley has cycled from Barmouth to Yarmouth because they rhyme. He’s cycled from Britain’s smallest church in Rhos to its largest church in Liverpool. He’s cycled the London Monopoly board. And he continues to amass a long list of ‘end-to-end’ country cycles. So for Rob, cycling from Morecambe to Bridlington along the Way of the Roses cycle route may at first glance appear to be a little, err… pedestrian. But think again. He decided to cycle the route 1970s style. In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast we chat to Rob Ainsley in York where he reveals all. Was the naffest decade of the 20th century as good a time as any to be on two wheels? Or better forgotten…
It was with a certain amount of trepidation that I started reading ‘Will Cycle’s’ review of Le Grand on a Bike Called Wanda. He had written kind words about my previous books. He might even be in the category of a ‘fan’. Yet his tweeted link to the review that he had written suggested that he had fallen out of favour with my take on cycle touring. Somewhat hesitantly, I followed the link…
Cycling during the summer months is a beloved activity for many, offering the perfect combination of enjoyable weather and extended daylight hours. However, it’s essential to be aware of the potential dangers that come with summer cycling to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.
You may have noticed…. it’s election time here in the UK. For the previous two elections, I examined the manifestos of the main parties to discover how many times they mentioned the word ‘cycling’. I have posted the results of my research at the foot of this email but to summarise, in 2017, the Green Party made mention of cycling twice, Labour and the Liberal Democrats once and the others not at all. In 2019, things had improved, a little. The Greens were still top of the list with 6 mentions of ‘cycling’ with the Liberal Democrats and the Conservatives equal second with 4. Labour mentioned the word twice and the other parties not at all.
The 2024 Critérium du Dauphiné is shaping up to be a formidable challenge, attracting some of the strongest climbers in the cycling world. Notably, top contenders like Primož Roglič, Remco Evenepoel, and Sepp Kuss are expected to dominate the event.
Most episodes of The Cycling Europe Podcast know where they are going from the outset. This episode is slightly different. We start in the English Lake District to take in the sounds of the recent Cycle Touring Festival in its new home of Coniston. We then head to India to hear from long-distance cyclist James Thomas. He lives in a coastal town in Goa on the shore of the Arabian Sea but often ventures into the mountains on foot and on his bike. He reflects upon his current experiences in India as well as past experiences cycling through Europe, especially Albania. We stay in Albania for an extract from Along The Med on a Bike Called Reggie, Andrew P. Sykes’ travelogue about cycling the EuroVelo 8 from Greece to Portugal in 2013. To explain if things have changed in the past decade, the podcast speaks to Dritan Kolgjini, a tour guide for Explore Travel’s Albanian cycling trips. Does the country really live up to its reputation of being the ‘new Croatia’?
Most episodes of The Cycling Europe Podcast know where they are going from the outset. This episode is slightly different. We start in the English Lake District to take in the sounds of the recent Cycle Touring Festival in its new home of Coniston. We then head to India to hear from long-distance cyclist James Thomas. He lives in a coastal town in Goa on the shore of the Arabian Sea but often ventures into the mountains on foot and on his bike. He reflects upon his current experiences in India as well as past experiences cycling through Europe, especially Albania. We stay in Albania for an extract from Along The Med on a Bike Called Reggie, Andrew P. Sykes’ travelogue about cycling the EuroVelo 8 from Greece to Portugal in 2013. To explain if things have changed in the past decade, the podcast speaks to Dritan Kolgjini, a tour guide for Explore Travel’s Albanian cycling trips. Does the country really live up to its reputation of being the ‘new Croatia’?
In publishing Le Grand Tour at the start of the month, I was required to get to grips with producing a properly formatted ePUB document. Nothing to do with drinking in your local; everything to do with eBooks. It’s the format that is required by the online distributors. Earlier today I spent a bit of time going back over my first book – Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie – and reformatting it as an ePUB document. It means that it is easier to navigate. I took the opportunity of re-reading the prologue to that book. It was interesting reading what I wrote at the time, especially my comments regarding the development of the Italian section of the EuroVelo 5 back in 2008 (when I was beginning to plan the trip).
