La Vélo Francette – The Film Première
YouTube, Saturday 21st February 2026, 12:00 GMT
Coming Soon: La Vélo Francette – The Film
It’s taken a while but I’m hoping to have the complete film edited before the end of February. Watch this space!
SailLink: Update For 2026
Last year I was contacted by cycle tourist Helen Rivers. She was keen to tell me about a new ‘ferry’ service that had been set up for pedestrians and cyclists travelling across the English Channel. Helen and her husband Ben subsequently appeared on The Cycling Europe Podcast to talk about their extensive experiences of cycling in Europe over many years. It is the episode that was published twoards the end of January 2026, episode 98. However, as a result of Helen’s initial contact with me, I contacted SailLink and I included an interview with Andrew Simons, the skipper of the SailLink boat, in episode 91 of The Cycling Europe Podcast.
Europe’s Best Cycling Routes For 2026 – Selected By Cycling Thread
There are hundreds of long-distance cycle routes in Europe, but not all offer the same level of experience, comfort and consistency. This selection was prepared by Cycling Thread – a platform focused on cycling tourism across Europe and based on first-hand riding experience. Instead of rankings or trends, we chose routes that feel rewarding to ride over longer distances. Some are well-known classics, others remain surprisingly uncrowded despite excellent quality. Together, they show different faces of European cycling – from alpine crossings to river valleys and coastal landscapes.
Five Reasons To Experience Provence In A Mobile Home
When it comes to the romance traditionally associated with Southern France, Provence is by far one of the most sought-after destinations. Let’s take a look at five reasons why visiting this region with a mobile home will provide you with memories to last a lifetime.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 095 – Claire Davies – Braver Than You Think
In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, we talk to Claire Davies, former diplomat, cyclist and writer. She chats about her journey along LEJOG and her ‘end-to-end’ cycles around Europe.
“Are you braver than you think? That’s the question Claire Davies began asking herself as she cycled from Land’s End to John O’Groats, ill-prepared, unsupported and alone. At a mid-life low point, craving space and time to think, or not to think, Claire decided that a long bicycle ride was what she needed. Setting off for Scotland just a few weeks later, on a bike named Trixie, guided by a gadget called Guillaume, she had little idea what she was letting herself in for. It turned out to be a journey not only to better physical fitness and mental health, but also to empowerment and self-discovery, partly through the eyes of the people she met along the way.”
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 22 – Perros-Guirec, France
Adopting the roads as it did, the route was set back slightly from the sea, often through wooded areas or gently undulating suburbia where it was difficult to judge where I was or how far I had travelled. But then I would descend slightly and find myself confronted with a picture-postcard view of a coastal village or an otherworldly beach. This was especially the case as I approached Tourony, but before I could explore, I noticed some familiar faces.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 20 – Bordeaux, France
Nearly twenty years later I was back. Arriving beside the River Garonne the previous evening it had been immediately obvious that the frenzy of work in the first few years of the 21st century had not been in vain. A wide esplanade which had previously been the fiefdom of the car had been transformed into gardens, fountains, walkways and, much to my delight, a long, wide cycleway. It guided me beside the river and into the imposing expanse of the Place de la Bourse. When I was here in 2003 I was not even allowed to step foot in the square as it had been entirely fenced off and gaping holes had been dug deep into the ground. On this occasion, once I had negotiated the relatively narrow width of the road and tramway I was able to cycle freely, taking in the magnificence of the 18th-century architecture surrounding me. I circumnavigated the flamboyant fountain with its revealing Three Graces extolling mirth, elegance and beauty with not a hint of modesty. With a smile on my face, the virtues of the three young women seemed an apt metaphor for what I was experiencing.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 19 – L’Avenue Verte, France
More farmland came and went and although I was rarely afforded the opportunity to cycle through it, there was clearly a lot of forest, especially to the south between the Avenue Verte and the Seine. The increasingly predominant crop was sunflowers, their heads drooping slightly under the weight of their seeds. They were now at the point where the sun had done its work and they seemed desperate for the bees to take their pollen, the birds to eat their seeds or a farmer to decapitate them and turn them into a tub of Flora. But as of yet, no semi-detached houses, tree-lined cul-de-sacs, excruciatingly polite dinner parties or seething resentment of the people next door. Suburbia had yet to be reached.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 18 – Alzonne, France
I found Camping l’Escale Occitane around 3km north of the canal on the far side of Alzonne. It was, perhaps, France’s only airline-themed campsite. Rémy and Nadia had both worked in the airline industry before deciding to leave the jet set to run the campsite and restaurant. Air France memorabilia was strategically placed in the bar, including a row of seats from an Airbus. I could not spot the Airbus itself but would not have been at all surprised if it was on Rémy’s list of future purchases. It would make an interesting addition to the range of accommodation options that the campsite offered. This included an area set aside for cyclists and I pitched the tent as the sky was just beginning to take on a pinkish hue generated by the slowly setting sun. As I glanced towards the horizon I could see the hazy silhouettes of the foothills of the Pyrenees. They would always remain distant on this trip but, as I neared the southernmost point of my Grand Tour of Europe, it was a reminder that the greatest physical challenges of the journey were still ahead of me in the Alps. It was Sunday 7th August. I had now completed just over five weeks in the saddle and there remained only four weeks to complete the cycle. Had I bitten off far more than I was capable of chewing? On which thought I went to order some airline-style food in the restaurant.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 16 – Sault-Brénaz, France
All that remained was to cycle the final few kilometres of the day to the campsite on an island to the south of Sault-Brénaz. It was somewhat busier than the Lidl. The enterprising owners of the campsite had cut a meandering narrow channel across the island through which the fast-flowing waters of the Rhône were able to flow. The result was a very popular wild-water canoe and kayaking course, the Espace Eau-Vive. After such a quiet, sedate day on the bike it was very much a shock to the system to be confronted with people and noise, but welcome nevertheless. There was ample space for camping at a suitable distance away from the hullabaloo and after a beer in the bar, I set about making camp for the night.
It would be the usual fare of spaghetti and pesto (with the added delight of Lidl Parmesan cheese) but what was not so usual was the cool evening. The sunset came and went at around 9 pm and thereafter the temperature dropped rapidly. After so many nights spent simmering in the tent, as I headed further and further into the mountains, things were gradually changing and it was not just the colour of the water.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 15 – Dangu, France
The coastline was more built up than it had been after crossing over the border from the Netherlands. Not that this made for unpleasant cycling; far from it. In most seaside towns the motorised traffic had been shunted inland by at least one block of flats worth of land. What I assumed to have once been the coastal road had been transformed into a wide active travel paradise with plenty of space for pedestrians, cyclists, café terraces and the forecourts of shops that hired out vibrantly painted four-wheeled pedal-powered karts. These contraptions could seat an entire family and there seemed to be an unwritten rule that the member of the family who possessed the lowest level of driving skill should be in charge of the steering wheel. For anyone on a cycling mission to get to the French border in one piece – that would be me – they made for potentially treacherous adversaries but, mercifully, I survived.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 14 – La Réole, France
The coastline was more built up than it had been after crossing over the border from the Netherlands. Not that this made for unpleasant cycling; far from it. In most seaside towns the motorised traffic had been shunted inland by at least one block of flats worth of land. What I assumed to have once been the coastal road had been transformed into a wide active travel paradise with plenty of space for pedestrians, cyclists, café terraces and the forecourts of shops that hired out vibrantly painted four-wheeled pedal-powered karts. These contraptions could seat an entire family and there seemed to be an unwritten rule that the member of the family who possessed the lowest level of driving skill should be in charge of the steering wheel. For anyone on a cycling mission to get to the French border in one piece – that would be me – they made for potentially treacherous adversaries but, mercifully, I survived.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 12 – Pouzols-Minervois, France
It would be an early start for me, one of the earliest of the trip. A symptom, perhaps, of my enthusiasm to move on to pastures new or at least to be cycling somewhere other than beside the Canal du Midi. Shortly after 7 am, I was standing at the gate of the campsite looking directly towards the rising sun. It was a moment of quiet contemplation. The previous two days had been hard work and, with Sète still 100km away, it seemed likely that today would be no different. My willingness – eagerness even – to give the towpath yet another opportunity to redeem itself was as annoying as it was bewildering. Before setting off from the UK, the Canal du Midi was firmly lodged in my mind as a highlight of the entire journey around Europe. Yet here I was just wishing for this section of the ride to be over and done with. I was annoyed with myself for having had such high expectations. I was annoyed with the authorities for not making any effort to accommodate cyclists. I was annoyed with the canal for having been built in an age when towpaths needed to be nothing more than rough paths for towing.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 10 – Canal De La Garonne, France
After my experiences along the Canal de Nantes à Brest, the Canal de la Garonne felt familiar. It made for easy, comfortable cycling; the towpath was well maintained and mature trees provided ample, almost continuous, shade from sun. It was also very straight. I could see on my map the River Garonne wriggling erratically along a seemingly endless number of meanders while the canal continued a sensible path heading south-east. The canal presented as a parent on a mission to get to the shops, the river as a young child who simply wanted to have a bit of fun running up and down the pavement despite being firmly attached to its mother.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 9 – Brittany, France
It was almost inevitable that I would encounter more disused railway lines in Brittany and that was the case as I cycled towards Yffiniac. Although the Vélomaritime vaguely followed the route of the old railway from Matignon to Yffiniac – it was only in operation for a short period between 1924 and 1948 – visual evidence of it doing so was thin on the ground. Perhaps a piece of civil engineering that had been abandoned before it could celebrate its 25th birthday was easy to erase. Or rather most of it. As it passed along the coast, long passerelles were required to lift the line above the soggy landscape and two of these structures were still in use ensuring that I too was able to keep my feet dry. They were not inconsequential structures. The Passerelle de la Côtière extended over 150 metres. It was built from reinforced concrete, manufactured offsite and “assembled in the manner of Meccano”. Yet as with most baguette-straight constructions of this type, travelling over them is rarely the best place to appreciate their architectural glory. Not so, the Viaduc des Pont-Neufs further along the line near Coëtmieux. Here, the engineers had foreseen my inquisitive arrival a century in advance and had kindly built their stunningly elegant bridge along a curve 30 metres above the ground allowing me to pause and admire it even from the cycle track. After a long day in the saddle, it was much appreciated, even if it too resembled something that might have been inspired by a box of Meccano.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 8 – Saint-Fort-Sur-Gironde, France
The final few kilometres of the ride were somewhat less spectacular but pretty nevertheless through parched fields of sunflowers and past occasional clusters of brown cattle. I arrived at Port Maubert near Saint-Fort-sur-Gironde in the mid-afternoon, exhausted, not by the cycle from Royan but from the cycle to Royan on the previous day. It was time for a late afternoon off the bike and, after erecting the tent under some handily located trees at the local campsite I lay back on the grass and snoozed. It was a world away from the people, fireworks and rampant sex of the previous night. But the night was yet young.
Cycling Holiday In France: A Journey Through History And Nature
France provides cycling enthusiasts with a unique blend of historical and natural experiences. These routes allow cyclists to explore ancient landmarks while enjoying breathtaking landscapes. Discover the rich cultural heritage and natural beauty of France on two wheels.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 5 – Mont-Saint-Michel, France
The sun was now at its highest and strongest. Not the best time to be moving away from the shady protection of the trees but I had little choice. For the next few kilometres, I followed the meandering path of the ever-widening river as it made its way towards oceanic freedom. However, it was not until the river had melted imperceptibly into the sea and I had turned to head west along the coast that I found what I was looking for. It had been in the back of my mind since leaving Paris: the Mont-Saint-Michel.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 4 – Toulouse, France
I had wanted to start my day by returning to the Place du Capitole to fly the drone so as to capture the glory of the town hall – le Capitole – in the golden-hour light of the morning sunrise. Alas my plans were scuppered by the constant stream of revellers who, at 8 am, were making their semi-drunken way back home. One young guy seemed particularly keen to ride Wanda around the square but I managed to persuade him otherwise. I could only imagine that his enthusiasm for flying – and no doubt crashing – the drone would be even greater. He stayed off the bike and the drone stayed stowed away in my front-right pannier bag.
Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 3 – L’Avenue Verte, France
It was with a certain sense of reserved contentment – that feeling you get after having finished your first beer – that I climbed the hill away from the Avenue Verte in the direction of the centre of Forges-les-Eaux and Camping de la Minière. It was still only 3 pm and the distance cycled had been a modest 57km but to continue would risk not finding a suitable place to stay as well as potentially tainting the experience of the day’s cycle. I suspected that from here to Paris, however wonderful sections of the route might be, it was unlikely that the Avenue Verte would be so enduringly glorious as it had been today. Quit while you are ahead, happy and famous.
Cyclo Camp: “Welcoming Spaces For Cyclists”
I don’t often use LinkedIn (mainly because I don’t really understand it, which is a lame excuse but there you go…), however I do receieve notifications via email from time to time and one arrived a couple of days ago that caught my eye. Why? Well, something in the pictures seemed familiar… The notification came in the form of an invite to follow an organisations called Cyclo Camp. A French outfit based in La Rochelle. Initially I thought they were a campsite themselves but no, they weren’t. I clicked through to their website and started reading…
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 094 – From Ibiza To The Norfolk Broads (Revisited)
In 2020, episode 23 of The Cycling Europe Podcast featured a chat with cyclist and David Bowie fan James Briggs. Inspired by the lyric of his musical hero, David Bowie, James set off on a cycling odyssey from Ibiza… to the Norfolk Broads. At the time he was writing a book about his music-inspired journey and now, five years later, it has just been published. According to the blurb, “Criss-crossing Europe, he visited French chateaux where Bowie recorded, Spanish Olympic stadiums he played, former communist states where his music was banned, and the Berlin Wall he helped topple – all while navigating angry Soviet ballerinas, suspicious village mayors, and an irate Cliff Richard fan.” In this episode of the podcast we listen to what James had to say back in 2020 and catch up with him again about what happened next. We also hear from Rob Ainsley who in episode 23 provided his own suggestions for lyric-themed cycling adventures. Will James find inspiration in any of Rob’s ideas for his next long-distance cycle?
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 092 – Cycling La Vélo Francette
In this episode of the podcast, Andrew Sykes sets off with Tim Sanders to cycle the length of La Vélo Francette in northern France. After taking a ferry to Cherbourg, the dynamic duo headed east by train to Bayeux before mounting their bikes and continuing on two wheels. At Ouistreham on the Normandy coast they started their journey south along La Vélo Francette, a 600 km route that travels inland to La Rochelle on the French Atlantic coast. Would they arrive in time to catch their trains and ferries home? It’s over two hours of cycle-camping adventure (with two hotels thrown in for good measure) interspersed with the music of the incomparable Rob Ainsley. Put your earphones in, sit back and let Andrew and Tim take the cycling strain…
Cycling La Vélo Francette, France, August 2025
Before setting off to France to cycle the length of La Vélo Francette from Ouistreham to La Rochelle, I posted a few pieces to the website about my plans. In two key ways this cycle was going to be a little different. Firstly, I was cycling with someone else. All of my previous tours have been done solo with just the occasional day or few hours spent cycling with another cyclist. The other aspect of this tour that was different was that I didn’t post updates to CyclingEurope.org as I have done in the past. Cycling with someone else made this difficult; I simply didn’t seem to have the time to do so. I did post a few pictures to Instagram (@CyclingEurope) which in turn were posted to the Facebook pages but there was no detailed description of what had happened each day.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 091 – Cycling Solo… Or With A Friend? / Saillink
In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, Andrew Sykes and Tim Sanders – both experienced solo cycle tourers – contemplate their upcoming joint cycle tour along La Vélo Francette in France. Does artifical intelligence have all the answers? What advice can Rob Ainsley offer? Plus, Andrew Simons discusses being the skipper of a new Dover-Boulogne ferry service aimed at pedestrians and cyclists.
Efficient Travel Options For Cyclists Heading To The Alps
Embarking on an adventure where efficiency meets breathtaking scenery, cyclists can find direct bus services from Geneva to the Alps, ensuring a seamless journey. This guide provides practical tips and insights for optimising your trip as you prepare for the ride of a lifetime.
Summer 2025: La Vélo Francette
I’ve mentioned in recent posts that I have a cycle trip planned for the summer of 2025. On August 11th I drive down to Somerset with Wanda (my Koga WorldTraveller bike) to meet up with Tim Sanders, friend from the Cycle Touring Festival, and the following day we take the ferry from Poole to Cherbourg. After a couple of days cycling along the Normandy coast we will arrive at Ouistreham and set off cycling south along La Vélo Francette in the direction of La Rochelle, camping as we go.
Cycle Touring With Friends: Essential Tips For Success
I do like the spring and early summer. Springwatch on the TV, then Wimbledon and shortly thereafter the end of the academic year beckons. It’s the season-stradelling period when life gets exciting once again, mainly because you can start looking forward to things that will be happenning over […]
Bordeaux Wine Tours – The Best Ways To Explore The Region’s Vineyards
Pedaling through Bordeaux’s vineyard-draped hills can make you so free. That’s because the region’s quiet, especially when you’re cycling trails wind past rows of Cabernet and Merlot. You’ll certainly sense the air humming with earth and grape. For bike travelers and wine-curious adventurers, though, a wine-tasting getaway in Bordeaux is quite thrilling. It gives you a chance to experience the rich culture. From Saint-Émilion’s cobbled charm to the Médoc’s coastal routes, you’ll get to see it all. So, there’s a lot to explore and mind you; you’ll get to unlock the soul of this wine-soaked landscape during your exploration.
Cycling Mont-Saint Michel To Nantes Along La Régalante
When I cycled my ‘Grand Tour’ around Europe back in 2022, I made use of several of the French named routes that have been developped by France Vélo Toursime in recent years; La Velomaritime, L’Avenue Verte, La Vélodyssée, La Via Rhôna plus a couple of others. They are generally excellent and a real effort has been made by the authorities across France to put infrastructure in place to make for easy route finding on predominantly off-road paths. Each of the routes has a dedicayed website with GPS tracks, tourist information and accommodation options etc…
The Cyclist Film Festival: Coming To A City Near You In 2025
A few years ago, Ian Street, Leeds’ leading welshman, organised what he called the Leeds Bicycle Film Club. I used to travel over once a month to watch the films that he curated and which were shown in the projection room of a pub just outside the city centre. Cycling films form a rich genre of celluloid splendour, although what quite contitues a ‘cycling film’ is a grey area. Ultimately, who cares? The events were good fun and usually involved beer so what’s not to like?
Le Canal Des 2 Mers À Vélo: Carte Touristique
Should you ever choose to send me an email, try to send it later in the week – Thursday or Friday is highly recommended – as I tend to reply to emails on a Saturday morning. If you send an email later today or tomorrow, you’ll have to wait a few more days for a reply. Anyway, replying to emails is what I’ve just been doing; I have made a few more arrangements to give a talk in Nottinghamshire in March 2025 (more of that soon), I have offered my humble words of wisdom to a cycling-writer in Cyprus and responded to some kind feedback on the books and the podcasts from a Scottish chap who now lives in New Zealand. I’ve also replied to a woman – who I suspect lives in North America – regarding official information about the Canal des 2 Mers à Vélo cycle route in France. She appeared to have made the rather dangerous assumption that this website was in some way ‘official’ as opposed to the random ramblings of a middle-aged British cycle tourist.
A Guide To Finding The Best Cycling Route In Île de Ré
To find the best cycling routes in Île de Ré, you must consider the difficulty level and the opportunities for sightseeing offered by each option. Continue reading this post for further details.
Guide To Cycling Tours In The Wine Regions of Europe
Renowned for an extensive portfolio of diverse historic and wine regions, the European continent is synonymous with winery culture and expertise. For a winery adventure that’s also active, consider combining the beloved European tradition of wine-sipping, with an active cycling retreat. Cascading greenery to roll down on two wheels, whilst learning the significance of wine production and culture. Blend the fun of culinary delights and movement magic, with a cycling tour amidst a wine region in Europe. Here is a guide to everything you need to know about this vacation, pre-departure.
Best Cycling Places In Europe
There are many great places to cycle in Europe. It depends on what you prefer, but it varies depending on the landscape and route. Whether you are an experienced cyclist or simply enjoy cycling as a recreational activity, there are many great places in Europe. In this article, you will find the best cycling routes in Europe that will surely give you the most unforgettable memories.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 078 – Le Grand Tour On A Bike Called Wanda / Andrew P. Sykes
In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, guest presenter Andrew Edwards chats to Andrew P. Sykes about his 2022 cycle around Europe and his new book – Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda – that is published on May 1st 2024.
“Secondary school teacher and inveterate would-be adventurer Andrew P. Sykes is back in the saddle. This time, however, it doesn’t belong to his long-term sidekick Reggie. There’s a fresh-faced kid on the block and she’s a bike called Wanda. (Nothing fishy about that!) The new double act set off on a grand tour of Europe to explore some of the continent’s most iconic cycling routes and locations: the Vélomaritime, the Avenue Verte to Paris, the Véloscénie to Mont-Saint-Michel, the Vélodyssée, the Canal de la Garonne, the Canal du Midi, the ViaRhôna, the Furka Pass and the Rhine are all on the itinerary of this light-hearted loop from the Hook of Holland… to the Hook of Holland. Join Andrew and Wanda as they put their best foot and only front wheel forward in a hot, dusty but at times very damp quest to delve into the lives, landscapes, history and culture of some of our nearest continental cousins and the countries they call home.”
The 90-Year-Old Cyclist | A Short Documentary
Another post of the francophones, although there are subtitles. A beautiful documentary about a very spritely chap. Originally from Italy, he has a wonderful accent which reflects the fact that he now lives in the south-west of France. I’m sure that even if you don’t understand his words, you’ll be able to appreciate the beauty of what he is saying. Very touching when he talks about his siblings, all of whom are still living. We can only hope that the rest of us are still on the bike when we are in our 90s…
The Final Map Of The Grand Tour: The Rhine / EuroVelo 15
I’m about to set off writing along the Rhine, the final part of 2022’s Grand Tour. And here is the map to guide me.
La France À Vélo – À La Rencontre De Ses Habitants
Time to dig out your French dictionary and start regretting not having done your French homework all those years ago. Here’s a fun – and very well made – film about cycling across France during the COVID 19 epidemic. His route is not dissimilar to that of my own journey south across France in 2022. Other films about cycling across France are available, notable my own… Thanks to the ever-supportive Simon Johnson for pointing me in the direction of Tortuga’s film. One for all lovers of France (and those in training to become one…)
Le Grand Tour: Day 47 – The Aftermath Of The Storm (Draft)
Progress is being made on the book about 2022’s Grand Tour. The drat should be finished by the end of the year and then I can think about getting this fourth travelogue published for all the world to read. In advance, however, here’s another extract – in draft – that I have just completed. It recounts the day after the night before! There had been a storm at the end of day 46 and here I am picking up the pieces and getting my journey back on track as I cross the border from France and enter Switzerland…
…And I’m Back!
I last wrote something for the website about a month ago, way back on the 23rd September in the run-up to the Cycle Touring Festival. Since then, I’ve been a little busy with cycling and non-cycling matters. Hopefully this post brings everything up-to-date as autumn gradually edges towards […]
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 075 – Craig Fee – Cycling Into The Unknown
In 2017, novice long-distance cyclist Craig Fee set off on a continental odyssey to cycle from London to his friend’s wedding in Florence, Italy. But had he bitten off more than he could chew? In his new book, Cycling Into The Unknown, he tells the story of the journey and in this episode of the podcast, he reflects upon the experience of setting off on a make-it-up-as-you-go cycle across Europe…
EXCLUSIVE BOOK EXTRACT: Le Grand Tour – Cycling The Canal De La Garonne
I continue to spend much of my time writing book four, my account of cycling around Europe in the summer of 2022. I have passed the half-way point in terms of time although not distance and am currently working on day 34 of the cycle. Below is what I have written for day 33. It was a day not without its self-inflicted challenges, mainly to do with my inability (on that day at least) to read my map… The completed book should be available in some way, shape or form towards the end of 2023 or early 2024. Look our for ‘Le Grand Tour’.
Paris: À Vélo (Vélib’)
Following my arrival in the Alps (see previous posts) I embarked upon a two-week trek along (most of) the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB), one of the world’s classic hikes. Keep scrolling for a selection of photos but before you do, I did manage to squeeze in some cycling whilst passing through Paris on my way home. Yesterday evening, with a hiking colleague from the TMB group who had also made the correct decision to take the train home rather than fly, I cycled from my hotel down to the Eiffel Tower. This morning I set off again on a short Parisian odyssey on one of the Vélib’ eBikes taking in the Louvre, Champs Élysées, Arc de Triomphe, Seine (a bit bumpy of the cobbles!) and back to the Gare du Nord.
Crossing Europe… By Train – Part 4
Destination reached. Now for two weeks hiking around Mont Blanc.
Crossing Europe… By Train – Part 3
I was a little concerned by the accommodation situation this morning. But in the end it turned out OK. A cheap room – by Annecy standards – turned up on Booking.com and I snapped it up. It’s a ground floor room built for those with access needs. It would have been perfect if I’d had the bike with me. But I don’t…
Crossing Europe… By Train – Part 2
And today, a bus. If I’d set off at the crack of dawn I could have caught a direct regional TER to Dijon. There are a couple every day from Paris Bercy station but I didn’t and neither did I fancy a long wait until the later train. So, I caught a TER to Laroche Migennes (no, I’d never heard of it either until this morning) where I could catch a ‘TER Bus’.
Crossing Europe… By Train – Part 1
I’m off on my summer travels… but without the bike and initially on the train. Or, rather, quite a few trains. My plan is to get as far as Chamonix by Saturday afternoon where I will meet up with a group of people for a guided hiking holiday – the Tour de Mont Blanc – and I am current awaiting the departure of my next train from one of Paris’ lesser-known stations, Bercy.
Cycle Magazine: Le Grand Tour – Now Available Online
If you are a member of Cycling UK and pay your £4 every month, you will hopefully have had the opportunity to read my account of last year’s Grand Tour that appeared in the June / July 2023 issue of Cycle Magazine. (If you are not a member, why not?? It’s a bargain and the magazine is one of the best cycling reads that you can get your hands on; real people, real cycling, real stories…)
Camping Along The Avenue Verte In France
One part of last year’s Grand Tour around Europe that I was particularly impressed by was the French section of the Avenue Verte that links London with Paris. I didn’t, of course, start in London; I joined the route in Dieppe and then headed south towards the French capital. It had everything that you might want when it comes to cycle touring; off-road cycling along disused railway lines, interesting places to visit, beautiful countryside and even for me in the summer of 2022, amazing weather.
“How Did You Remember That?”
It’s a question I am occasionally asked. My quest to re-cycle the route of last year’s Grand Tour around Europe in written form continues… Today I will hopefully ‘arrive’ in La Rochelle. It was one of the longest days of cycling from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie to La Rochelle on the west coast of France. 140km in total. At least the landscape was flat and it was a beautifully sunny day. This is the fourth book that I will have written about my travels on a bike. When I think back to writing that first book, it was very much a detective job as I didn’t record much information about the cycle from southern England to southern Italy in 2010; a few short web posts, a few photos, no video to speak of and not even a GPS track. Why would I bother? It wasn’t as if I was ever going to need all that detail again…
EXCLUSIVE: Le Grand Tour – Day 26
In the writing of the book about last year’s Grand Tour of Europe, I’ve arrived in the west of France, at a small family-run campsite near the coastal town of La Bernerie-en-Retz. I occasionally post what I’ve written to the website and below you can read my account of day 26 of the journey that took place in late July 2022. I have to say that this fourth book is taking me far longer to write than the previous books, but that’s for good reasons rather than bad. I have no pressure with this one. I ticked the box of having a book published through official channels with ‘Spain to Norway…’ and have as yet made no effort whatsoever to find a publisher for this fourth instalment of my travels. As a result, I have no deadline to finish the first draft. It will happen later in the year, perhaps even in early 2024 but I do feel that the quality of what I am writing is benefiting from the lack of external pressure. You may ultimately agree or disagree… but you might have to wait until the spring of 2024 to find out. If you are a publisher, feel free to get in touch.
France’s Beer Trail: Exploring the Brews Along the Tour de France Route
The Tour de France, one of the world’s most prestigious cycling events, is not only a thrilling race but also an opportunity to discover the diverse cultures and flavours of France. While the country is renowned for its wine, it is also home to a burgeoning beer scene that is worth exploring.
Cycle Magazine June / July 2023… And Le Grand Tour
Welcome to June… and to the summer of 2023. Well, if the first is your definition of summer. There are several from which to choose. My focus over the next few months will be continue to write the first draft of my new book about last year’s ‘Grand Tour’ of Europe. I’m now heading south along the Vélodyssée in the west of France (day 25 of around 60) so I should have that draft ready by the end of the summer. However, earlier this year I was approached by Dan Joyce, the editor of Cycling UK’s Cycle magazine, asking if would be able to contribute an article about last year’s cycle. That article has now been published and if you are a member of Cycling UK, you should have received your copy of the magazine in the last few days. It’s the June / July issue.
And Here’s A Round Up Of The Cycling Europe News…
The holidays are here! Well, half term. Just a week but the sun is shining and my bicycle – the one I use when I’m pottering around and about the area where I live – will be back from its impromptu service tomorrow morning. On my commute to work earlier in the week I got a puncture. Not in itself a reason for giving the bike a service but since I purchased the Ribble hybrid bike about 18 months ago, I’ve been keen to replace the Schwalbe G-One tyres with Schwalbe Marathon Plus, and here was my opportunity. It made sense to give the bike a service at the same time and the mobile mechanic that I use will be delivering the bike back to me in the morning. I hope the weather continues to be nice for the rest of the week and, indeed for the rest of the summer (that’s perhaps hoping for too much) as I continue my daily commutes to and from work.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 070 – Crossing Europe On A Bike Called Reggie – Part 1
“The academic year must have been a difficult one as when the summer holidays arrived, secondary school teacher Andrew Sykes was happy to do as little as possible. But while sitting on his sofa watching the exploits of the cyclists at the Great Wall of China at the Beijing Olympics, he realised the error of his ways and resolved to put a bit more adventure into his life. Two years later, accompanied by his faithful companion Reggie (his bike) but only a rudimentary plan, Andrew set off for a trans-continental cycling adventure that would take him along the route of the Via Francigena and the Eurovelo 5 all the way from his home in southern England to Brindisi in the south of Italy. There were highs and lows, rain and shine, joy and despair and they are all recounted here in a light-hearted, brisk style.”
“One Of My All-Time Favourite YouTube Videos… Epic Stuff!”
On July 3rd 2022 I set off from The Hook of Holland in The Netherlands, turned right and pedalled off in the direction of France. It was an anti-clockwise tour of the continent; the EuroVelo 12 along the Belgian coast, the EuroVelo 4 to Dieppe, L’Avenue Verte to Paris, La Véloscénie to Mont St Michel before rejoining the EuroVelo 4 to Morlaix, the EuroVelo 1 / Vélodyssée to Royan, the Canal de la Garonne to Toulouse, the Canal du Midi to Sète, the EuroVelo 17 beside the Rhône to Andermatt in Switzerland and finally the EuroVelo 15 / Rhine Cycle Route back to The Hook of Holland and the return ferry to Hull on September 3rd.
The Sherborne Travel Writing Festival 2023
Travel writing is very much on my mind at the moment as I continue to work on the first draft of my 4th book, provisionally titled ‘Le Grand Tour’ which willl recount the story of the cycle around France, Switzerland and down the Rhine that I completed last summer. A few years ago, around the time of the publication of the 3rd book, ‘Spain to Norway…’ I had the great pleasure in being invited to deliver a talk at the Lismore Festival of Travel Writing that takes place every year in County Waterford, Ireland. It’s a unique event within the British Isles as no other book festival specialises in travel writing. Or rather, it was until now…
Cycling Mont Ventoux: Everything You Need To Know
Cycling Mont Ventoux should be on the bucket list of every avid cyclist. It’s the highest mountain in Provence, and because it’s isolated from other mountains of the same size, it’s one of the most prominent geographical features in northern Provence. You can access the top of Mont Ventoux by road, from where you can enjoy the spectacular views of Provence and Rhône valley, the southern Alps, and even the Pyrenees when the air is clear.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 067 – Cycling In Brittany – Tim Boden / Geoff Husband
In June 2022, Tim Boden – an experienced group cyclist – set off on his first solo cycle tour, to Brittany in north-west France. His route took him from the port of Roscoff along the Vélodyssée / EuroVelo 1 to Redon. He then joined French regional route number 42 to follow the coast to Saint-Nazaire before returning to the Vélodyssée for a cycle beside the Loire to Nantes and back to Redon. Here he rejoined the eastern portion of route 42 to cycle north to Saint-Malo. Tim talks about the routes but also the history and culture of this distinctive French region. We also revisit two encounters from episodes 55 & 56 with three French cyclists – Fabian, Julian and Guillaume – and, from Breton Bikes and Camping de Gouarec, Geoff Husband.
YOUTUBE EXCLUSIVE: Episode 067 Of The Cycling Europe Podcast
In June 2022, Tim Boden – an experienced group cyclist – set off on his first solo cycle tour, to Brittany in north-west France. His route took him from the port of Roscoff along the Vélodyssée / EuroVelo 1 to Redon. He then joined French regional route number 42 to follow the coast to Saint-Nazaire before returning to the Vélodyssée for a cycle beside the Loire to Nantes and back to Redon. Here he rejoined the eastern portion of route 42 to cycle north to Saint-Malo. Tim talks about the routes but also the history and culture of this distinctive French region. We also revisit two encounters from episodes 55 & 56 with three French cyclists – Fabian, Julian and Guillaume – and, from Breton Bikes and Camping de Gouarec, Geoff Husband.
EuroVelo 8 – Mediterranean Route: (My) Once-In-A-lifetime Experience
It will soon be 10 years that I set off to cycle along the Mediterranean coast from Cape Sounio in southern Greece to Cape St. Vincent in southern Portugal. My route was inspired by the EuroVelo 8, although it was much less developed back then than it is today. I saw some EuroVelo 8 signs in Catalonia but aside from that, I’m not quite sure I saw any elsewhere. And after Valencia, when I was beginning to run short of time – I needed to be back at work at the beginning of September – I headed inland, away from the coast in order to complete the journey without resorting to jumping on the train.
Le Grand Tour: Part 3 – La Véloscénie (Paris To Mont-Saint-Michel)
Later this year I will be releasing a film about my 5,500km journey by bicycle and train from the Hook of Holland, along the Dutch and Belgian coasts, anticlockwise around France, into Switzerland beside the Rhone and finally along the Rhine to Rotterdam. Editing takes time but, in anticipation of the full film being finished by the end of 2022, here’s a 10-minute segment of the film that tells the story of my cycle along La Véloscénie from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel via Chartres, Nogent-le-Rotrou and Domfront. Wacth out for the Musée du Vélo! The music is from the skilled fingers of Rob Ainsley and the audio commentary is taken from episode 054 of The Cycling Europe Podcast.
The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 061 – The 1903 Tour De France… On A Brompton
Gareth Dent has a long-term relationship with small-wheeled bicycles. Growing up in Stevenage in the late 1960s he made the most of the town’s futuristic network of cycle routes on his 14” Moulton Mini. 40 years later he rekindled his love for small wheels during an organised folding bike challenge from London to Paris, in the process meeting a group of like-minded enthusiasts. It was with these new friends that , several years later, he started to cycle the route of the 1903 Tour de France, in stages, over 4 years. The interview was recorded in Halifax’s covered market where we also bumped into Tony, the West Yorkshire town’s own proponent of small-wheeled cycling. He had much to say…
Le Grand Tour: The Film – Coming Soon…
Although during the trip I posted short daily videos recounting the tale of my cycle around Europe this summer, the main reason for filming what I did was to make a film about the cycle from the Hook of Holland to the Hook of Holland. It’s quite a daunting task editing 2,500 videos into one film of about an hour but over the next few weeks that’s the plan. To whet your appetite, I have started by creating an into. You can watch it below.
Le Grand Tour: The View From On High
It’s now two weeks since I arrived back in the UK after the summer’s jaunt around Europe with Wanda (the bike…). It’s been an interesting couple of weeks to say the least. On a personal level, I finally feel as though I’ve caught up with things. It was a rather sudden turnaround from being long-distance cyclist to secondary school teacher – about 18 hours to be precise – but after two weekends I’m finally in a position to say everything is ‘sorted’. Well, apart from that cupboard crammed full of my camping equipment but at least I can’t see it unless I make the effort to open the door.
Le Grand Tour: Day 63 – Rotterdam To The Hook Of Holland (39km)
So there it is. Finished. After 63 days, 55 cycling days, around 4,700km, 7 countries, 10 train journeys, lots of ferries (small and large), 45 nights in the tent, 11 nights in hotels, 4 with WarmShowers hosts, 1 with a friend and a night with a Vriendren op de Fiets host, 8 episodes of The Cycling Europe Podcast (the final part 8 episode should be published tomorrow morning upon arrival back in the UK), over 60 (almost) daily videos… and zero punctures, I arrived back at The Hook of Holland earlier today after the relatively short cycle from central Rotterdam and in doing so completed the ‘Grand Tour’ loop. It’s been fun.
Le Grand Tour: Day 62 – Arnhem To Rotterdam (161km)
The longest day of the trip but it needed to be.it’s now Saturday morning and I still have around 60km of cycling today: 30km from central Rotterdam to the Hook of Holland and then, back up and down the Rhine to the end of one of the other fingers of land to the ferry. Check-in closes at 7pm tonight so I have plenty of time to complete those 60km but if I had stopped yesterday east of Rotterdam that might not have been the case.
Le Grand Tour: Day 61 – Hürth/Cologne To Arnhem (16km + Train + 70km)
Today has been a real joy. Everything came together in a celestial meeting of cycle touring, travelling, people, places, weather… I loved it. Even the trains joined the party after an initial reluctance to play ball at Cologne station this morning. With only 48 hours of this continental odyssey remaining, I couldn’t wish to have spent a more enjoyable day in the saddle. Even that pesky wind which, for much of the past week, has been annoying me in a manner that usually only a tiresome Year 9 student can achieve came to the party and blew me along the banks of the Rhine willing me to get to Rotterdam on time. Fabulous. I only wish you could have been here.
Le Grand Tour: Day 60 – Braubach To Hürth / Cologne (121km)
It’s now day 61 and it’s turning out to be a ‘fun’ morning. I’m booked onto a train to Xanten from Cologne but in chaotic scenes very reminiscent of taking a train in the UK, there is some confusion regarding the train that arrived on platform 4 a few minutes ago, wouldn’t let passengers on and then scarpered. I need to change at Duisburg… I’m forcing myself into ‘zen’ mode. It might have been easier to keep cycling and take the train from a quieter station. The plan was to arrive in Xanten – famed for its Roman ruins I Iearnt last night – then cycle over the border into The Netherlands. Come back later today to find out if that ever happens or whether I’m still here in Germany. Or indeed Cologne…
Le Grand Tour: Day 59 – Gernsheim To Braubach (135km)
Such a contrast after three tedious days of cycling. The Rhine has come back to me! It was an epic day in terms of length – 130km – but also in terms of the environment. Finally the steep-sided Rhine valley has materialised and those cliff-top castles have appeared. Today was up there with some of the best cycles of the entire summer 2022 ‘Grand Tour’ journey. Enjoy the pictures and the videos as I have little energy to add much to what you can see…
Le Grand Tour: Day 58 – Philippsburg To Gernsheim (110km)
In the context of a two-month cycle around Europe I can put up with a few days here and there of uninspiring or troublesome cycling but I do feel for all those people who set their heart of cycling the Canal du Midi or, more pertinently to this week, from Basel to where I am now (about 20km south-west of Frankfurt). It really is keep-your-receipt stuff but unlike a pair of jeans from Marks & Spencers, you can’t take a cycling holiday back to the shop and ask for a refund.
Le Grand Tour: Day 57 – Kehl To Phlippsburg (123km)
The best thing about day 57 is that it wasn’t day 56. That’s not to say that day 57 will go down in history as being a great day of cycling but it wasn’t anywhere near as monotonous as yesterday’s cycle. And in contrast (because it’s not all about the cycling…), yesterday evening was fun chatting with Dave from Seattle, the German chap and the French family with their very funny two boys. Tonight here in Phillipsburg it’s just me and the chap in the next tent who I saw for the first time about 30 seconds ago. He’s wearing a dressing gown and a head torch. It’s not a look that I have ever coveted on a campsite but who knows? It’s only 9pm. The evening could yet turn out to be an entertaining one…
Le Grand Tour: Day 56 – Kembs To Kehl (120km)
About 80% of today was deathly dull. Why did I end up cycling the Rhine-Rhône Canal again after having cycled it north to south in 2010 and been bored just as rigid back then? I suppose it was because I ended up on the French side of the Rhine last night. Tonight’s short video is a boring one reflecting the day quite well…
Le Grand Tour: Day 55 – Konstanz To Kembs (59km + Train + 19km)
Basel… You almost ruined my day. More later on that score. Basel aside, today was up there with one of the best days of cycling and I’m so delighted that I’ve been able to sample at least some of the delights of the shore of the Bodensee. It was the stuff of cycling dreams; beautiful scenery, nice weather, great cycle paths, fascinating places to visit and a satisfying distance covered. It’s one of those days when you are better off not reading this drivel and just watching the video.
Le Grand Tour: Day 54 – Buchs To Konstanz (64km + Ferry)
The first part of Plan B has been enacted… Quite an achievement when you bear in mind that there wasn’t ever a detailed Plan A and when Plan B is about as vague as a Brexitier when you try pin them down on the benefits of the UK leaving the EU. I am currently en route to Konstanz in Germany. More of that in a moment.
Le Grand Tour: Day 53 – Valendas To Buchs (83km)
Life is getting complicated, for good reasons. I’m now in the Swiss town of Buchs and trying to plan tomorrow which will hopefully see me meet two people at either ends of the day; Ken, who is cycling 12 countries in 12 days (see his Twitter feed @highfielder80 for updates and the details of his trip) and my friend Claus (remember him from ‘Crossing Europe…’?) who I haven’t seen for many years, in Breganz, Austria in the late afternoon. I need a social secretary! I’m also hatching an interesting plan for Friday but more of that in due course…
Le Grand Tour: Day 52 – Andermatt To Valendas (62km)
And so this pan-European odyssey enters its final phase: the Rhine Cycle Route or EuroVelo 15. But before I could crack on with that this morning, I had some sorting out of loose ends from the penultimate phase: the Rhône Cycle Route or EuroVelo 17. I completed that route yesterday upon arrival in Andermatt but this morning finished putting together the podcast about cycling the Rhône. This included inserting a chat that I had with my neighbours on the campsite at Andermatt; a couple – Rich and Becca – from West Yorkshire of all places (my neck of the woods) who had cycled some of the route as well. The podcast was published this morning from café at the train station in Andermatt but you don’t have to go that far to find it: all the links are at CyclingEurope.org/Podcast.
Le Grand Tour: Day 51 – Ritzingen To Andermatt Via The Furka Pass (54km)
I did it! I arrived in my spiritual cycling home, Andermatt, a little earlier this afternoon after a lengthy, strenuous, exhilarating and ultimately beautifully satisfying climb to the Furka Pass. I’m now celebrating with the best CHF5 bottle of wine that the local Coop could sell me accompanied with some good old bread and cheese. This is what cycle-camping is all about!
Le Grand Tour: Day 50 – Sierre To Ritzingen (74km)
I’m running out of energy today. Not me personally but my electrical gear. In sorting out my gear last week at the €35 campsite when the heavens opened and the tent ended up hosting the 2022 Lac Léman swimming championships at the end where my feet are currently positioned, my battery pack stopped working and I inadvertently left the two cables I need to attach my phone to the front wheel dynamo hub somewhere. Although I replaced the battery pack in Aigle, I won’t be able to replace the cables. Added to this, my WarmShowers host Jean-Daniel has some very curious Swiss sockets in his house and I wasn’t able to charge anything overnight. I have 30% of charge left on this phone and my battery pack is currently being charged in the reception. That should see me through tomorrow to Andermatt. I have made today’s video but a combination of this lack of power and the Swiss love of 3G as opposed to 4G you are going to have to wait to see it until at least Monday.
Le Grand Tour: Day 49 – Aigle To Sierre (81km)
On one level – the cycling level – it has been a pretty standard day. Dare I say boring? A flat ride, 90% off road on a good quality path beside the Rhône following the route of the EuroVelo 17 or, as it is known locally, national route 1. Sticking to just the cycling for a moment, I say ‘flat ride’… I knew I was heading uphill but couldn’t help feel that I was heading downhill. After the turn to cycle east following my brief pause in Martigny, the wind was behind me so this may have added to the sensation of cycling down a very gentle gradient but I think of more significance is the valley itself. I’ve experienced this before (although not that dubious ‘Electric Bray’ place on the west coast of Scotland where I was singularly unimpressed…) in northern Spain in 2019. There too I was cycling through a valley, knew I was cycling uphill beside a river heading in the opposite direction, but had a distinct feeling of going downhill all day. It’s the brain seeing something – the narrow valley with steep slopes on either side – and convincing the body that it is indeed what the brain sees, despite conclusive evidence to the contrary.
Le Grand Tour: Day 48 – Aigle
As I thought I would, I have spent the day in Aigle. It rained heavily overnight, continued raining this morning and this afternoon and only decided to stop at around 3pm. It remains very overcast with the clouds hanging around the mountains that surround the town on three sides and it wouldn’t surprise me in the least if we are in for more rain later today. Tomorrow morning there is a chance of rain but things are looking much brighter for the afternoon and continuing into the weekend and next week. Back to you Huw…
Le Grand Tour: Day 47 – Excenevex, Lac Léman To Aigle, Switzerland (67km)
The difference between the situation I am tonight in Aigle, Switzerland compared to the situation I was in in Excenevex near Lac Léman just 24 hours ago is a stark one to say the least. But before I get into that, I have some catching up to do…
Le Grand Tour: Day 46 – Seyssel To Excenevex, Lac Léman (97km)
Very wet evening. I am reminded of cycling across Europe in 2010. Arrived in Switzerland… then left Switzerland. Full details tomorrow…
Le Grand Tour: Day 45 – Sault-Brénaz To Seyssel (112km)
Running a bit late tonight. It was a long day of cycling (although not the longest) but thoroughly enjoyable. I hesitate before I say this (as I would need to think more carefully about all the others) but today was up there with one of the best days so far; not just on the Via Rhôna but on the entire cycle so far. Another celebration of bridges as you will discover if you choose to watch the video. I hold back on the Hans Zimmer score but today’s video merited it…
Le Grand Tour: Day 44 – Lyon To Sault-Brénaz (81km)
I don’t like Mondays… Someone has beaten me to the song. I really don’t like Mondays in France as most places are closed. There is a special corner in hell for bank holidays that happen to be on a Monday in France. Today was one of the latter. Nothing open whatsoever this morning. We are celebrating the ‘Assumption of Mary’. Not being a man of religion I don’t know what Mary was assuming but perhaps it was that there might be something, somewhere that was open to buy lunch on a Monday bank holiday in France. There isn’t. Even the French are exasperated; one couple who were cycling in the opposite direction stopped me in desperation at around midday asking if I’d passed an épicerie that was open. I hadn’t. They broke down and sobbed beside the cycle path in desperation. I told them my plan was to survive on my box of peanuts until I could cook something in the evening. I scarpered as quickly as I could lest they use force in getting hold of the cacahuètes. When I did I turn to look, I could see them chasing after me using surprisingly fluent Chaucerian language vowing to prise the peanuts from my hands. The entente cordiale only goes so far… They were my peanuts. I digress.
Le Grand Tour: Day 43 – Tain L’Hermitage To Lyon (By Train)
Caught the train to Lyon this morning. After all the heat it’s perhaps not surprising that when the rain decided to fall it put on quite an impressive thunder and lightening show. The downpour was, at times, torrential but as I stand here looking over the Rhône in the centre of Lyon, the rain has stopped, the clouds are breaking and perhaps we are in for a better afternoon.
Le Grand Tour: Day 42 – Montélimar To Tain L’Hermitage (96km)
Ten bridges today. Ten. That means that I went from Drôme (to the east of the Rhône) to the Ardèche (to the west of the Rhône) five times in each direction. In the new reality of Brexit, that probably invalidates my stay in the Schengen zone. There were plenty of other bridges that I didn’t cross. If you have a thing for bridges, come to the Rhône Valley!
Le Grand Tour: Day 41 – Chateauneuf-Du-Pape To Montélimar (93km)
Today has seen some of the best cycling of the trip so far. I had, in my mind, relegated the Via Rhôna to a fill-the-gap route that I would have to endure in order to get me from the Mediterranean to the Alps. If today’s cycling is anything to go by, it’s no fill-the-gap route. Far from it… There is real geographical drama in the Rhône valley and I can only see that increasing. I (almost) feel sorry for the hoards of touring cyclists passing me heading south to that roundabout in Sète which has about as much geographical drama as your granny’s pond. I’m heading to the Alps and the drama can only intensify the further north and east I travel. After the relative disappointment of the Canal du Midi, I have embraced – and am loving – the Via Rhôna after just two days. Montélimar? Mmm… Keep reading.
Le Grand Tour: Day 40 – Montagnac To Chateauneuf-du-Pape Via Sète (77km + Train + 24km)
Day 39 existed. I didn’t just time-warp myself from day 38 to day 40 but having met up with friends Basil and Liz in Pézenas yesterday lunchtime after having done my pit-stop tasks (washing, post office, podcast editing…) we had a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening of drinking, eating, wandering, drinking, eating and drinking. I took one picture…
Le Grand Tour: Day 38 – Pouzols Minervois To Montagnac Via Sète (134km)
I’’m glad to have finished the Canal du Midi section of the Canal des Deux Mers cycle route. Now in Pézenas – I’ll explain in a moment – the highlight of yesterday was cycling along the excellent voies vertes that brought me inland from Sète yesterday evening. Cycling at the end of the day is something that doesn’t often happen (the way I tend to organise my days) but the advantages of cycling at that end of the day are similar to those of early morning cycling; quieter roads, cooler temperatures and the ‘golden hour’ sunlight that washes a beautiful soft tint over the landscape. It’s also worth noting (and remembering) that the winds tend to die down in the evening. Mmm… Perhaps I should do night shifts on the bike.
Le Grand Tour: Day 37 – Alzonne To Pouzols-Minervois (71km)
I’m on one bar of 3G tonight so getting anything uploaded aside from some good old text is very doubtful. No, more than doubtful; it won’t happen as I’m not even going to try. I’ll update this post tomorrow morning with the pictures and the video (which is ready to go!) and for anyone thinking of cycling the Canal du Midi, it really is a video you need to watch…
Le Grand Tour: Day 36 – Toulouse To Alzonne (92km)
I’ve seen the Pyrenees for the first time this evening. After so much relatively flat or tame topography over the past five weeks, it’s good to finally have a little drama added to the landscape. They are only in silhouette, shrouded in haze and only just perceptible from the sky but they are definitely there. (Or my glasses need cleaning.) I’m in a place called Alzonne by the way, about 90km along the canal from Toulouse. Carcassonne is a further 20km to the south east.
Le Grand Tour: Day 35 – Grisolles To Toulouse (31km)
I’m still suffering g from the mosquito bites inflicted upon me in Marick’s basement on Thursday night. I really wish I had got out of the bed and killed each one of the little f*****s. Not only would I have gained great pleasure from doing so, I would not now be scratching my way through the day. Last night on the campsite near Grisolles was particularly uncomfortable. On the positive side of things, the bites are receding, slowly… I need to buy some Autan. I’m already taking antihistamine tablets but the former was recommended way back in 2010 when I was the victim of a mosquito attack in Italy. I wrote a whole section in ‘Crossing Europe…’ about mosquitoes and their bites; I should go back and re-read it. I seem to remember there being three factors that increased your susceptibility; being pregnant, having blood group O and beer. I need to drink more wine…
Le Grand Tour: Day 34 – Agen To Grisolles (94km)
I judge my WarmShowers hosts on how I provide for WarmShowers guests when I host back at home. Alas in recent years this has been less frequent. When I lived in that beautiful tourist hotspot that is, err… Reading, I hosted quite regularly in the summer. Since moving back to rural Yorkshire I’ve hosted just three times. In Reading I was half-way between London and Oxford or en route to the West Country. In Yorkshire, despite it being far nicer, I’m not really on anyone’s cycle route (although not very far from the Pennine Cycleway – take note!). Anyway, aside from a warm shower, I provide food, drink, Wi-Fi, clothes washing, advice, deep-tissue massage… Well, most of those.
Le Grand Tour: Day 33 – La Réole To Agen (89km)
There were times this morning when I thought this particular day – the whole trip perhaps – were being derailed… It all started by me heading over the bridge back in the direction of La Réole. Oops! Wrong direction. No big problem; I’d only cycled perhaps 50 metres across the bridge and by doing so made a nice video clip (yep, you guessed it – watch the video…).
Le Grand Tour: Day 32 – Bordeaux To La Réole (80km)
There’s no mistaking that I have now arrived in the south of France. Not only has it been hot (in fairness, it’s not been in the least but cold since Brittany) but there have been a long list of things that tick the Southern Europe boxes; lavender, a lizard, terracotta roofs, parched fields of crops, hilltop villages, towns that shut down in the heat of the day… No cicadas yet but they will come in the next week I imagine.
Le Grand Tour: Day 31 – Bordeaux
A short one today… and no video. It’s often tempting on a non-cycling day to plunge into full tourist mode and spend an exhausting day visiting the sites. Today I haven’t done that. I’ve spent much of the day wandering aimlessly around – flâner in French – and sorted out a few bits and pieces along the way. I’ve had the most expensive haircut of my life (I daren’t admit how much but next time I will check the prices before I sit down…) with my developing beard shaved off (which perhaps doubled the cost), bought some replacement sandals, done my washing, sorted out my car tax and the customs issues with the GoPro (ongoing saga…) and even checked on my plants back home (via a phone call with my mother). But no video. One thing I haven’t yet done is edit the podcast and that is my job for the next couple of hours. It should be available by the end of the day. Still a while for you to catch up on the previous four ‘Grand Tour’ episodes (numbers 052 to 055). Tomorrow: the Canal de la Garonne…
Le Grand Tour: Day 30 – Saint-Fort-Sur-Gironde To Bordeaux (44km + Ferry + 42km)
Today was a good day. A very good day. Well, apart from the first 10km, but that aside, I loved today’s cycling. It had everything that you might want from a good cycle touring day; beautiful scenery, variety, a favourable wind, vineyards, good signage, a few nice encounters along the way, quality surfaces, an exciting destination, a laundrette and beer at the end of the day and a day off in your favourite French city to look forward to. My day could only improve if Yorkshire Television* decide to revive 3-2-1 with Ted Rogers* and Dusty Bin. On the subject of which, happy Yorkshire Day!
