Category: Le Grand Tour

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 24 – The Hook Of Holland, The Netherlands

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It was almost precisely midday when I set off along the 5,500km loop that, if all went to plan, would see me return to The Hook of Holland in two months. I was fully expecting to retrace my route back to the small ferry at Maassluis where I planned to cross – again – the waterweg to Rozenburg on the southern side of the estuary. It would be a 15km cycle through familiar territory and, as Wandaโ€™s robust touring tyres rolled over the rough concrete of the wide path beside the water, I began to contemplate what was to come over the next few weeks. The known knowns, the known unknowns and the unknown unknowns.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 23 – Talmont-Saint-Hilaire, France

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When topography does you no favours – there were no mountains to feast upon in this part of France – the other facets of geography need to put in extra effort if they are to impress. On the morning of July 30th, they were sweating their assets hard. Within a matter of minutes of leaving the campsite at 7.30 am, I was on a dusty path, pine trees to my right and a meadow awaiting its grazing horses to my left. In the distance a few trees softened the line between land and sky and beyond them, across the vastness of space (and a just little bit of time), the yellow globe of the sun had started to glide effortlessly across the sky. Its golden influence washed across the field, its countless rays crashing and splintering as they came into contact with the cushion of mist on the ground. Above everything and beyond a transition from orange to yellow to white was a developing blue sky, unblemished by even the bravest of clouds. It was a scene that would have had J.M.W. Turner erecting his easel and mixing his paints without a moment of hesitation. Yellow ochre, raw sienna, burnt sienna, olive green, cobalt blueโ€ฆ This was a scene to exhaust the palette. And aside from an invisible Joseph and me, there was not another soul to witness the early morning spectacle. Beautiful.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 22 – Perros-Guirec, France

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Adopting the roads as it did, the route was set back slightly from the sea, often through wooded areas or gently undulating suburbia where it was difficult to judge where I was or how far I had travelled. But then I would descend slightly and find myself confronted with a picture-postcard view of a coastal village or an otherworldly beach. This was especially the case as I approached Tourony, but before I could explore, I noticed some familiar faces.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 21 – Ritzingen, Switzerland

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The final 10km of the day saw a return to more modest – but no less spectacular – climbing. Along quiet roads and mountain tracks the route linked village to village beside lush late-summer meadows. On the northern side of the valley the red and white trains continued to glide up and down on their spotless tracks. No leaves on the line here in Switzerland. The businessmen in their Ferraris roared up and down the road. On my side of the valley there was just me, a few other cyclists and the cows ringing their bells. This was peak Switzerland. All that was missing was a cuckoo telling me the time.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 20 – Bordeaux, France

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Nearly twenty years later I was back. Arriving beside the River Garonne the previous evening it had been immediately obvious that the frenzy of work in the first few years of the 21st century had not been in vain. A wide esplanade which had previously been the fiefdom of the car had been transformed into gardens, fountains, walkways and, much to my delight, a long, wide cycleway. It guided me beside the river and into the imposing expanse of the Place de la Bourse. When I was here in 2003 I was not even allowed to step foot in the square as it had been entirely fenced off and gaping holes had been dug deep into the ground. On this occasion, once I had negotiated the relatively narrow width of the road and tramway I was able to cycle freely, taking in the magnificence of the 18th-century architecture surrounding me. I circumnavigated the flamboyant fountain with its revealing Three Graces extolling mirth, elegance and beauty with not a hint of modesty. With a smile on my face, the virtues of the three young women seemed an apt metaphor for what I was experiencing.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 19 – L’Avenue Verte, France

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More farmland came and went and although I was rarely afforded the opportunity to cycle through it, there was clearly a lot of forest, especially to the south between the Avenue Verte and the Seine. The increasingly predominant crop was sunflowers, their heads drooping slightly under the weight of their seeds. They were now at the point where the sun had done its work and they seemed desperate for the bees to take their pollen, the birds to eat their seeds or a farmer to decapitate them and turn them into a tub of Flora. But as of yet, no semi-detached houses, tree-lined cul-de-sacs, excruciatingly polite dinner parties or seething resentment of the people next door. Suburbia had yet to be reached.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 18 – Alzonne, France

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I found Camping lโ€™Escale Occitane around 3km north of the canal on the far side of Alzonne. It was, perhaps, Franceโ€™s only airline-themed campsite. Rรฉmy and Nadia had both worked in the airline industry before deciding to leave the jet set to run the campsite and restaurant. Air France memorabilia was strategically placed in the bar, including a row of seats from an Airbus. I could not spot the Airbus itself but would not have been at all surprised if it was on Rรฉmyโ€™s list of future purchases. It would make an interesting addition to the range of accommodation options that the campsite offered. This included an area set aside for cyclists and I pitched the tent as the sky was just beginning to take on a pinkish hue generated by the slowly setting sun. As I glanced towards the horizon I could see the hazy silhouettes of the foothills of the Pyrenees. They would always remain distant on this trip but, as I neared the southernmost point of my Grand Tour of Europe, it was a reminder that the greatest physical challenges of the journey were still ahead of me in the Alps. It was Sunday 7th August. I had now completed just over five weeks in the saddle and there remained only four weeks to complete the cycle. Had I bitten off far more than I was capable of chewing? On which thought I went to order some airline-style food in the restaurant.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 17 – Basel, Switzerland

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I was, for the first time on my Grand Tour, lost. Not in the middle of a forest or on a remote mountain path but in Switzerlandโ€™s third largest city. I turned right for the simple reason that I would be heading north but there were no visual hints that I was making a good choice. Five minutes later I crossed back into Germany. I had envisaged cycling from Basel straight into France. This was not part of the plan but I continued cycling north. Eventually I noticed a sign for the EuroVelo 15 and turned left. This took me to a hydroelectric barrage across the Rhine and back into France.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 16 – Sault-Brรฉnaz, France

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All that remained was to cycle the final few kilometres of the day to the campsite on an island to the south of Sault-Brรฉnaz. It was somewhat busier than the Lidl. The enterprising owners of the campsite had cut a meandering narrow channel across the island through which the fast-flowing waters of the Rhรดne were able to flow. The result was a very popular wild-water canoe and kayaking course, the Espace Eau-Vive. After such a quiet, sedate day on the bike it was very much a shock to the system to be confronted with people and noise, but welcome nevertheless. There was ample space for camping at a suitable distance away from the hullabaloo and after a beer in the bar, I set about making camp for the night.
It would be the usual fare of spaghetti and pesto (with the added delight of Lidl Parmesan cheese) but what was not so usual was the cool evening. The sunset came and went at around 9 pm and thereafter the temperature dropped rapidly. After so many nights spent simmering in the tent, as I headed further and further into the mountains, things were gradually changing and it was not just the colour of the water.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 15 – Dangu, France

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The coastline was more built up than it had been after crossing over the border from the Netherlands. Not that this made for unpleasant cycling; far from it. In most seaside towns the motorised traffic had been shunted inland by at least one block of flats worth of land. What I assumed to have once been the coastal road had been transformed into a wide active travel paradise with plenty of space for pedestrians, cyclists, cafรฉ terraces and the forecourts of shops that hired out vibrantly painted four-wheeled pedal-powered karts. These contraptions could seat an entire family and there seemed to be an unwritten rule that the member of the family who possessed the lowest level of driving skill should be in charge of the steering wheel. For anyone on a cycling mission to get to the French border in one piece – that would be me – they made for potentially treacherous adversaries but, mercifully, I survived.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 14 – La Rรฉole, France

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The coastline was more built up than it had been after crossing over the border from the Netherlands. Not that this made for unpleasant cycling; far from it. In most seaside towns the motorised traffic had been shunted inland by at least one block of flats worth of land. What I assumed to have once been the coastal road had been transformed into a wide active travel paradise with plenty of space for pedestrians, cyclists, cafรฉ terraces and the forecourts of shops that hired out vibrantly painted four-wheeled pedal-powered karts. These contraptions could seat an entire family and there seemed to be an unwritten rule that the member of the family who possessed the lowest level of driving skill should be in charge of the steering wheel. For anyone on a cycling mission to get to the French border in one piece – that would be me – they made for potentially treacherous adversaries but, mercifully, I survived.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 13 – Ostend, Belgium

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The coastline was more built up than it had been after crossing over the border from the Netherlands. Not that this made for unpleasant cycling; far from it. In most seaside towns the motorised traffic had been shunted inland by at least one block of flats worth of land. What I assumed to have once been the coastal road had been transformed into a wide active travel paradise with plenty of space for pedestrians, cyclists, cafรฉ terraces and the forecourts of shops that hired out vibrantly painted four-wheeled pedal-powered karts. These contraptions could seat an entire family and there seemed to be an unwritten rule that the member of the family who possessed the lowest level of driving skill should be in charge of the steering wheel. For anyone on a cycling mission to get to the French border in one piece – that would be me – they made for potentially treacherous adversaries but, mercifully, I survived.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 12 – Pouzols-Minervois, France

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It would be an early start for me, one of the earliest of the trip. A symptom, perhaps, of my enthusiasm to move on to pastures new or at least to be cycling somewhere other than beside the Canal du Midi. Shortly after 7 am, I was standing at the gate of the campsite looking directly towards the rising sun. It was a moment of quiet contemplation. The previous two days had been hard work and, with Sรจte still 100km away, it seemed likely that today would be no different. My willingness – eagerness even – to give the towpath yet another opportunity to redeem itself was as annoying as it was bewildering. Before setting off from the UK, the Canal du Midi was firmly lodged in my mind as a highlight of the entire journey around Europe. Yet here I was just wishing for this section of the ride to be over and done with. I was annoyed with myself for having had such high expectations. I was annoyed with the authorities for not making any effort to accommodate cyclists. I was annoyed with the canal for having been built in an age when towpaths needed to be nothing more than rough paths for towing.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 11 – Goedereede, The Netherlands

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To get to Ouddorp and my campsite, this bit of humanity on a bicycle needed to cross the first of my four dams, the Haringvlietdam. As you might expect, the Dutch had afforded cyclists much more than a painted line on the road. We had our own two-way segregated lane and the only force of nature I had to contend with was that of the wind which was doing its best to toss me over the edge of the dam and into the lake on my left. It was not difficult to see why the concept of the windmill had taken off in such a big way in these parts. There was a particularly stunning example of one such windmill as I passed through the outskirts of the village of Goedereede. It stood, motionless, at the far end of a busy field of allotments which was dominated by a pleasingly chaotic display of red, orange and yellow wildflowers alongside more disciplined rows of vegetables. In a day that had already exposed me to many of the delights of the Dutch nation, this was perhaps the finest and I paused to appreciate it in all its glory.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 10 – Canal De La Garonne, France

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After my experiences along the Canal de Nantes ร  Brest, the Canal de la Garonne felt familiar. It made for easy, comfortable cycling; the towpath was well maintained and mature trees provided ample, almost continuous, shade from sun. It was also very straight. I could see on my map the River Garonne wriggling erratically along a seemingly endless number of meanders while the canal continued a sensible path heading south-east. The canal presented as a parent on a mission to get to the shops, the river as a young child who simply wanted to have a bit of fun running up and down the pavement despite being firmly attached to its mother.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 9 – Brittany, France

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It was almost inevitable that I would encounter more disused railway lines in Brittany and that was the case as I cycled towards Yffiniac. Although the Vรฉlomaritime vaguely followed the route of the old railway from Matignon to Yffiniac – it was only in operation for a short period between 1924 and 1948 – visual evidence of it doing so was thin on the ground. Perhaps a piece of civil engineering that had been abandoned before it could celebrate its 25th birthday was easy to erase. Or rather most of it. As it passed along the coast, long passerelles were required to lift the line above the soggy landscape and two of these structures were still in use ensuring that I too was able to keep my feet dry. They were not inconsequential structures. The Passerelle de la Cรดtiรจre extended over 150 metres. It was built from reinforced concrete, manufactured offsite and โ€œassembled in the manner of Meccanoโ€. Yet as with most baguette-straight constructions of this type, travelling over them is rarely the best place to appreciate their architectural glory. Not so, the Viaduc des Pont-Neufs further along the line near Coรซtmieux. Here, the engineers had foreseen my inquisitive arrival a century in advance and had kindly built their stunningly elegant bridge along a curve 30 metres above the ground allowing me to pause and admire it even from the cycle track. After a long day in the saddle, it was much appreciated, even if it too resembled something that might have been inspired by a box of Meccano.ย 

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 8 – Saint-Fort-Sur-Gironde, France

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The final few kilometres of the ride were somewhat less spectacular but pretty nevertheless through parched fields of sunflowers and past occasional clusters of brown cattle. I arrived at Port Maubert near Saint-Fort-sur-Gironde in the mid-afternoon, exhausted, not by the cycle from Royan but from the cycle to Royan on the previous day. It was time for a late afternoon off the bike and, after erecting the tent under some handily located trees at the local campsite I lay back on the grass and snoozed. It was a world away from the people, fireworks and rampant sex of the previous night. But the night was yet young.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 7 – Arnhem, The Netherlands

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Beyond the western suburbs of Arnhem was an area of dense woodland. That in itself was not surprising. What was surprising was just how hilly it was. After so many days of cycling on the flat, it was a delightful novelty to find myself freewheeling down paths in the forests and trying to use my momentum to carry me part of the way up the next hill. It did not last for long but whilst it did, was good fun. Then, suddenly, I was flung back into suburbia. It was perhaps not quite as well-heeled as its counterpart near Arnhem, but nonetheless pleasant and eminently liveable. The changing environment was being tossed in my direction at an alarming rate and I was loving it.ย 

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 6 – The Furka Pass, Switzerland

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The road to the Furka pass is only open for around five months every year but in late August 2022, there was not a hint of inclement weather. Although the air was cool and the wind had been gradually gaining strength throughout the day, the sky remained predominantly blue and the views that it afforded were, from the perspective of a cyclist with limited experience in the high mountains, unprecedented. After several kilometres of contouring beside the railway line east of Gletsch – its tracks crossed the road before shooting off into the Furka Summit Tunnel – I hit the wall of rock and the final series of switchbacks kicked in. Eight corners in total, each flipping my direction (great for an even tan!) and finally an opportunity to gaze at the view back down the valley. I could trace my route since Gletsch and far below me on the valley floor was the Rhรดne, meandering its way across the plain as a freshly born offspring of the still unseen glacier.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 5 – Mont-Saint-Michel, France

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The sun was now at its highest and strongest. Not the best time to be moving away from the shady protection of the trees but I had little choice. For the next few kilometres, I followed the meandering path of the ever-widening river as it made its way towards oceanic freedom. However, it was not until the river had melted imperceptibly into the sea and I had turned to head west along the coast that I found what I was looking for. It had been in the back of my mind since leaving Paris: the Mont-Saint-Michel.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 4 – Toulouse, France

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I had wanted to start my day by returning to the Place du Capitole to fly the drone so as to capture the glory of the town hall – le Capitole – in the golden-hour light of the morning sunrise. Alas my plans were scuppered by the constant stream of revellers who, at 8 am, were making their semi-drunken way back home. One young guy seemed particularly keen to ride Wanda around the square but I managed to persuade him otherwise. I could only imagine that his enthusiasm for flying – and no doubt crashing – the drone would be even greater. He stayed off the bike and the drone stayed stowed away in my front-right pannier bag.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 3 – L’Avenue Verte, France

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It was with a certain sense of reserved contentment – that feeling you get after having finished your first beer – that I climbed the hill away from the Avenue Verte in the direction of the centre of Forges-les-Eaux and Camping de la Miniรจre. It was still only 3 pm and the distance cycled had been a modest 57km but to continue would risk not finding a suitable place to stay as well as potentially tainting the experience of the dayโ€™s cycle. I suspected that from here to Paris, however wonderful sections of the route might be, it was unlikely that the Avenue Verte would be so enduringly glorious as it had been today. Quit while you are ahead, happy and famous.

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 2 – The Rhine, Germany

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I paused briefly for breakfast at a bakery in Stockstadt am Rhein, a small town which was no longer on the Rhine thanks to canalisation work. I was delighted to discover that the cycle route now seemed to be devoid of the horrible concrete slabs that had blighted much of the previous afternoon. As the path followed the course of the severely emaciated meander of the old Rhine, it did so along wooded paths, quiet roads and at one point over some comically bone-shaking cobblesโ€ฆ but no slabs of concrete. I was not quite ready for that torture again.ย 

Le Grand Tour Advent Calendar: Day 1 – Andermatt, Switzerland

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As I packed up the tent at Gotthard Camping, I had some decisions to make. A helicopter hovered above the campsite picking up metal girders from an adjacent field and flying them off into the mountains to be deposited elsewhere. Every few minutes it would return to repeat the operation. I fell into conversation – when it was possible – with my neighbours, Rich and Becca from Ilkley, the posh bit of my home county of West Yorkshire. They were also travelling by bike and had set off from Nantes earlier in the summer. Their route would eventually take them to Rome but up to this point, it had been almost identical to my own.ย 

‘Le Grand Tour’: The Audiobook

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Over the years, many people have asked why there isn’t an audio book version of any of the books I have written. Well, I’d love to say that I had the time, resources and technical know-how required to embark upon such a feat. I can cope with making podcasts which don’t require stringent adherence to technical standards and in which my ropey diction can be forgiven (hopefully) by the listeners. But an audio book? I have tried on occasions to record something but I’m no Stephen Fry. The attempts have been quickly abandoned. However, I have news…

Signed Copies Of Le Grand Tour On A Bike Called Wanda: Be Quick!

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It is only now a matter of days until three become four and the new book – Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda – is published. The date is May 1st although you can already pre-order the eBook from Amazon if you want to start reading at midnight on the 1st! The paperback isn’t available to pre-order but rest assured that will also be available from May 1st. Initially you’ll have to go via Amazon to get hold of the book but Apple Books will also have the book available on iTunes, hopefully from May 1st. And if you’d like a signed copy, keep reading as these should be dispatched this very weekend, several days before the official publication!

1.3.25: Le Grand Tour Talk, Pie & Peas!

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A few years ago I gave a talk near Sheffield about cycling from Spain to Norway. In 2025 Iโ€™ve been invited back, this time to talk about Le Grand Tour. Thanks to Paddy Ducey for organising the event that will take place on the evening of Saturday March 1st. Pie and peas included! Tickets available from Paddy: email paddyducey@hotmail.com

Le Grand Tour: “Eagerly Anticipated… And It Did Not Disappoint”

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Earlier this morning it was nice to see that Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda was topping the Amazon ‘cycling books’ chart, for a few hours at least. Readers continue to get in touch to pass on positive comments about what they have read, often via social media and often with a picture of the book (often, curiously, beside an alcoholic drink but I’ll try not to read too much into that). Miha Pavลกiฤ is in Slovenia and he chose to email me with some feedback and it was a delight to start the day by reading what he had to say:

Le Grand Tour: “I Felt Uplifted”

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Those of you who are members of Cycling UK will soon be receiving your copy of the bi-monthly magazine Cycle. It’s a cracking read and it comes as no surprise to discover that it is Britain’s most widely read cycling magazine. (If you don’t receive a copy, sign up to Cycling UK – it will cost you just ยฃ4 a month – and six times a year you’ll get your own copy delivered for free!) Back to the new edition of the magazine – August / September 2024 – that I have just been browsing online. It contains the usual eclectic mix of cycling-themed news, rides… and reviews.

Le Grand Tour: Cycle Touring Done Right… Or Wrong?

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It was with a certain amount of trepidation that I started reading ‘Will Cycle’s’ review of Le Grand on a Bike Called Wanda. He had written kind words about my previous books. He might even be in the category of a ‘fan’. Yet his tweeted link to the review that he had written suggested that he had fallen out of favour with my take on cycle touring. Somewhat hesitantly, I followed the link…

Le Grand Tour: The Audio Book Saga | Behind The Scenes

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You might think that once you’ve written a book and it’s been published that you’d be able to sit back and relax. It never seems to be like that, for good reason. Lot’s of people have been getting in touch directly with kind comments about Le Grand Tour – I always take time to respond – and the marketing is an ongoing process. However, there is one thing that I started doing yesterday that I haven’t done before. I spent a serious amount of time thinking about and researching the options available to make an audio book of Le Grand Tour. I even had a go at recording.

Move Over Tim Moore*: “An entertaining travelogue…

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The words of Richard Peploe in his review of Le Grand Tour… which has just been published on the Seven Day Cyclist website. But it gets better. A couple of years ago you may remember that I headed off down to London to meet up with one of the greats of cycle-touring literature, Mr Tim Moore. His publisher is a master of coming up with a catchy title for a book: French Revolutions, Gironimo, Vuelta Skelter to name but three. I wonder if a title such as ‘Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda’ would have ever got further than the trash can; I was once told by an important person in the publishing world that the title ‘Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie’ was one of the worst titles he had every seen! Anyway, I digress…

Le Grand Tour… En Espaรฑa, Part 3

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Does it ever worry you that you forget things that, really, you should remember? I’ve just had one of those moments. I searched CyclingEurope.org to see if I posted anything about an interview that did with Talk Radio Europe shortly before setting off on the 2015 cycle from Tarifa to Nordkapp. I was in southern Spain at the time and I went down to the studios of the radio station in Estepona for a chat about the upcoming trip. It’s not something that I seem to have recorded here on the webiste, not even in passing. Strange but there you go. My search did, however, reveal that back in late September 2011 I appeared on Talk Radio Europe to chat about my 2010 cycle to southern Italy. I have no recollection whatsoever of having done so but the proof is there. I did. You can listen to that interview from 13 years ago at the foot of this post.

Le Grand Tour: Moving On…

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It is fair to say that writing a book takes up a lot of time. It’s also equally fair to say that once the writing has finished, marketing a book also takes up a lot of time. This is my excuse for not having posted to the website or produced many episodes of the podcast in recent weeks and months. However, it’s now over a week since Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda was unleashed from my protective shackles and I’m hoping to begin to return to the life of a blogging, podcasting cyclist. As for the book, it is now at the mercy of those who choose to read it and, perhaps, review it. So far, feedback has been overwhelmingly positive and I am very grateful to everyone who has posted on social media or messaged me or indeed written a formal online review. To all those who have done so, thank-you.

Le Grand Tour: The First Review Has Landed…

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As you may have noticed, Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda will be published on May 1st. It’s always a slightly worrying moment as your baby is let loose into the at-times-unforgiving world of literary criticism. I can only hope there are more reviews similar to the one that has just been published on Brian Palmer’s Washing Machine Post website. Brian’s full review can be read by following link below. Here is an extract.

Le Grand Tour On A Bike Called Wanda: Just Days To Go…

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It is only now a matter of days until three become four and the new book – Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda – is published. The date is May 1st although you can already pre-order the eBook from Amazon if you want to start reading at midnight on the 1st! The paperback isn’t available to pre-order but rest assured that will also be available from May 1st. Initially you’ll have to go via Amazon to get hold of the book but Apple Books will also have the book available on iTunes, hopefully from May 1st. And if you’d like a signed copy, keep reading as these should be dispatched this very weekend, several days before the official publication!

The Cycling Europe Podcast: Episode 078 – Le Grand Tour On A Bike Called Wanda / Andrew P. Sykes

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In this episode of The Cycling Europe Podcast, guest presenter Andrew Edwards chats to Andrew P. Sykes about his 2022 cycle around Europe and his new book โ€“ Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda โ€“ that is published on May 1st 2024.
โ€œSecondary school teacher and inveterate would-be adventurer Andrew P. Sykes is back in the saddle. This time, however, it doesnโ€™t belong to his long-term sidekick Reggie. Thereโ€™s a fresh-faced kid on the block and sheโ€™s a bike called Wanda. (Nothing fishy about that!) The new double act set off on a grand tour of Europe to explore some of the continentโ€™s most iconic cycling routes and locations: the Vรฉlomaritime, the Avenue Verte to Paris, the Vรฉloscรฉnie to Mont-Saint-Michel, the Vรฉlodyssรฉe, the Canal de la Garonne, the Canal du Midi, the ViaRhรดna, the Furka Pass and the Rhine are all on the itinerary of this light-hearted loop from the Hook of Hollandโ€ฆ to the Hook of Holland. Join Andrew and Wanda as they put their best foot and only front wheel forward in a hot, dusty but at times very damp quest to delve into the lives, landscapes, history and culture of some of our nearest continental cousins and the countries they call home.โ€

Covering All Bases: ‘Le Grand Tour … On A Bike Called Wanda’

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Secondary school teacher and inveterate would-be adventurer Andrew P. Sykes is back in the saddle. This time, however, itโ€™s not the one belonging to his long-term sidekick Reggie. Thereโ€™s a fresh-faced kid on the block and sheโ€™s a bike called Wanda. (Nothing fishy about that!) The new double act set off on a grand tour of Europe to explore some of the continentโ€™s most iconic cycling routes and locations: the Vรฉlomaritime, the Avenue Verte to Paris, the Vรฉloscรฉnie to Mont-Saint-Michel, the Vรฉlodyssรฉe, the Canal de la Garonne, the Canal du Midi, the ViaRhรดna, the Furka Pass and the Rhine are all on the itinerary of this light-hearted loop from the Hook of Hollandโ€ฆ to the Hook of Holland. Join Andrew and Wanda as they put their best foot and only front wheel forward in a hot, dusty but at times very damp quest to delve into the lives, landscapes, history and culture of some of our nearest continental cousins and the countries they call home. [Warning: This adventure also contains trains.]

Le Grand Tour: From ‘It Was Breezy…’ To ‘…The T-shirt’

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Last weekend I completed the first draft of my fourth book, provisionally called Le Grand Tour. 159,600 words from the first – ‘It was breezy…’ – to the last – ‘…the T-shirt’. It tells the tale of my 2022 circular cycle from the Hook of Holland to the Hook of Holland. As to when it gets published, I’m not able to say with great accuracy. It will most likely be self-published (as were the first two books) and if that is indeed the case, I suspect that publication around Easter would be a reasonable guess. I have made some efforts to approach publishers and if it does get picked up by a publisher (Summersdale who published book 3 no longer publish many travelogues), the publication date would probably be pushed further into the year.

Le Grand Tour: Day 47 – The Aftermath Of The Storm (Draft)

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Progress is being made on the book about 2022’s Grand Tour. The drat should be finished by the end of the year and then I can think about getting this fourth travelogue published for all the world to read. In advance, however, here’s another extract – in draft – that I have just completed. It recounts the day after the night before! There had been a storm at the end of day 46 and here I am picking up the pieces and getting my journey back on track as I cross the border from France and enter Switzerland…

…And I’m Back!

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I last wrote something for the website about a month ago, way back on the 23rd September in the run-up to the Cycle Touring Festival. Since then, I’ve been a little busy with cycling and non-cycling matters. Hopefully this post brings everything up-to-date as autumn gradually edges towards […]

EXCLUSIVE BOOK EXTRACT: Le Grand Tour – Cycling The Canal De La Garonne

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I continue to spend much of my time writing book four, my account of cycling around Europe in the summer of 2022. I have passed the half-way point in terms of time although not distance and am currently working on day 34 of the cycle. Below is what I have written for day 33. It was a day not without its self-inflicted challenges, mainly to do with my inability (on that day at least) to read my map… The completed book should be available in some way, shape or form towards the end of 2023 or early 2024. Look our for ‘Le Grand Tour’.

Cycle Magazine: Le Grand Tour – Now Available Online

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If you are a member of Cycling UK and pay your ยฃ4 every month, you will hopefully have had the opportunity to read my account of last year’s Grand Tour that appeared in the June / July 2023 issue of Cycle Magazine. (If you are not a member, why not?? It’s a bargain and the magazine is one of the best cycling reads that you can get your hands on; real people, real cycling, real stories…)

Camping Along The Avenue Verte In France

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One part of last year’s Grand Tour around Europe that I was particularly impressed by was the French section of the Avenue Verte that links London with Paris. I didn’t, of course, start in London; I joined the route in Dieppe and then headed south towards the French capital. It had everything that you might want when it comes to cycle touring; off-road cycling along disused railway lines, interesting places to visit, beautiful countryside and even for me in the summer of 2022, amazing weather.

“How Did You Remember That?”

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It’s a question I am occasionally asked. My quest to re-cycle the route of last year’s Grand Tour around Europe in written form continues… Today I will hopefully ‘arrive’ in La Rochelle. It was one of the longest days of cycling from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie to La Rochelle on the west coast of France. 140km in total. At least the landscape was flat and it was a beautifully sunny day. This is the fourth book that I will have written about my travels on a bike. When I think back to writing that first book, it was very much a detective job as I didn’t record much information about the cycle from southern England to southern Italy in 2010; a few short web posts, a few photos, no video to speak of and not even a GPS track. Why would I bother? It wasn’t as if I was ever going to need all that detail again…

EXCLUSIVE: Le Grand Tour – Day 26

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In the writing of the book about last year’s Grand Tour of Europe, I’ve arrived in the west of France, at a small family-run campsite near the coastal town of La Bernerie-en-Retz. I occasionally post what I’ve written to the website and below you can read my account of day 26 of the journey that took place in late July 2022. I have to say that this fourth book is taking me far longer to write than the previous books, but that’s for good reasons rather than bad. I have no pressure with this one. I ticked the box of having a book published through official channels with ‘Spain to Norway…’ and have as yet made no effort whatsoever to find a publisher for this fourth instalment of my travels. As a result, I have no deadline to finish the first draft. It will happen later in the year, perhaps even in early 2024 but I do feel that the quality of what I am writing is benefiting from the lack of external pressure. You may ultimately agree or disagree… but you might have to wait until the spring of 2024 to find out. If you are a publisher, feel free to get in touch.

Cycle Magazine June / July 2023… And Le Grand Tour

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Welcome to June… and to the summer of 2023. Well, if the first is your definition of summer. There are several from which to choose. My focus over the next few months will be continue to write the first draft of my new book about last year’s ‘Grand Tour’ of Europe. I’m now heading south along the Vรฉlodyssรฉe in the west of France (day 25 of around 60) so I should have that draft ready by the end of the summer. However, earlier this year I was approached by Dan Joyce, the editor of Cycling UK’s Cycle magazine, asking if would be able to contribute an article about last year’s cycle. That article has now been published and if you are a member of Cycling UK, you should have received your copy of the magazine in the last few days. It’s the June / July issue.

Le Grand Tour… In 57 Varieties

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Well, images… I’ve just written something for the June / July edition of Cycling UK’s Cycle Magazine (the April / May edition landed on my doorstep yesterday morning as I was typing) about last year’s Grand Tour of Europe and I was asked to provide some images. The magazine doesn’t need anywhere near 57 images so I thought I’d share them here. You will, of course, have to wait until June to read the article itself. In the meantime you could catch up on the Grand Tour podcast and films. All the links are below…

The Sherborne Travel Writing Festival 2023

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Travel writing is very much on my mind at the moment as I continue to work on the first draft of my 4th book, provisionally titled ‘Le Grand Tour’ which willl recount the story of the cycle around France, Switzerland and down the Rhine that I completed last summer. A few years ago, around the time of the publication of the 3rd book, ‘Spain to Norway…’ I had the great pleasure in being invited to deliver a talk at the Lismore Festival of Travel Writing that takes place every year in County Waterford, Ireland. It’s a unique event within the British Isles as no other book festival specialises in travel writing. Or rather, it was until now…

Returning To Le Grand Tour… In Sheffield

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In the last week there’s been a lot about Tenerife but now that I’ve returned to the UK from my short break on the Canary Islands, the focus returns to Le Grand Tour, my 5,000km cycle around France, Switzerland and then down the Rhine in the summer of 2022. Hopefully many of you will have been able to watch the series of four films that were published back in December – they are all available on the Cycling Europe YouTube Channel (see links below) – and listened to the series of podcasts that were released during the journey itself. I’ve spoken about my journey at a couple of events since returning from the continent; at the Cycle Touring Festival and then at my local Cycling UK group here in West Yorkshire. Next week, however, I’m heading south! Not too far… Just to Sheffield at the invitation of the Sheffield CTC group:

Le Grand Tour: The Film Premieres

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In recent weeks, indeed since returning from my ‘Grand Tour’ of the continent early in September, I haven’t posted much to CyclingEurope.org. But I have been busy. Busy film editing… It was always my plan to make use of the significant amount of video footage – over 3,000 clips – in a film that retold the story of the epic cycle from The Hook of Holland to The Hook of Holland via much of France, Switzerland and the Rhinelands.

Le Grand Tour: Part 3 – La Vรฉloscรฉnie (Paris To Mont-Saint-Michel)

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Later this year I will be releasing a film about my 5,500km journey by bicycle and train from the Hook of Holland, along the Dutch and Belgian coasts, anticlockwise around France, into Switzerland beside the Rhone and finally along the Rhine to Rotterdam. Editing takes time but, in anticipation of the full film being finished by the end of 2022, here’s a 10-minute segment of the film that tells the story of my cycle along La Vรฉloscรฉnie from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel via Chartres, Nogent-le-Rotrou and Domfront. Wacth out for the Musรฉe du Vรฉlo! The music is from the skilled fingers of Rob Ainsley and the audio commentary is taken from episode 054 of The Cycling Europe Podcast.

Le Grand Tour: The Film – Coming Soon…

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Although during the trip I posted short daily videos recounting the tale of my cycle around Europe this summer, the main reason for filming what I did was to make a film about the cycle from the Hook of Holland to the Hook of Holland. It’s quite a daunting task editing 2,500 videos into one film of about an hour but over the next few weeks that’s the plan. To whet your appetite, I have started by creating an into. You can watch it below.

The Cycle Touring Festival (Lightโ€ฆ) Returns This Weekend!

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After over 3 years of virtual get-togethers, the Cycle Touring Festival returns to its regular home in Clitheroe this weekend for a paired-down gathering. There will be a range of speakers offering their thoughts on the noble art of travelling by bicycle, including a certain Andrew Sykes who will be talking for the first time about his 2022 5,500km quest from The Hook of Holland to The Hook of Holland. It should be a fun weekendโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: The View From On High

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It’s now two weeks since I arrived back in the UK after the summer’s jaunt around Europe with Wanda (the bike…). It’s been an interesting couple of weeks to say the least. On a personal level, I finally feel as though I’ve caught up with things. It was a rather sudden turnaround from being long-distance cyclist to secondary school teacher – about 18 hours to be precise – but after two weekends I’m finally in a position to say everything is ‘sorted’. Well, apart from that cupboard crammed full of my camping equipment but at least I can’t see it unless I make the effort to open the door.

Le Grand Tour: Day 63 – Rotterdam To The Hook Of Holland (39km)

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So there it is. Finished. After 63 days, 55 cycling days, around 4,700km, 7 countries, 10 train journeys, lots of ferries (small and large), 45 nights in the tent, 11 nights in hotels, 4 with WarmShowers hosts, 1 with a friend and a night with a Vriendren op de Fiets host, 8 episodes of The Cycling Europe Podcast (the final part 8 episode should be published tomorrow morning upon arrival back in the UK), over 60 (almost) daily videosโ€ฆ and zero punctures, I arrived back at The Hook of Holland earlier today after the relatively short cycle from central Rotterdam and in doing so completed the โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ loop. Itโ€™s been fun.

Le Grand Tour: Day 62 – Arnhem To Rotterdam (161km)

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The longest day of the trip but it needed to be.itโ€™s now Saturday morning and I still have around 60km of cycling today: 30km from central Rotterdam to the Hook of Holland and then, back up and down the Rhine to the end of one of the other fingers of land to the ferry. Check-in closes at 7pm tonight so I have plenty of time to complete those 60km but if I had stopped yesterday east of Rotterdam that might not have been the case.ย 

Le Grand Tour: Day 61 – Hรผrth/Cologne To Arnhem (16km + Train + 70km)

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Today has been a real joy. Everything came together in a celestial meeting of cycle touring, travelling, people, places, weatherโ€ฆ I loved it. Even the trains joined the party after an initial reluctance to play ball at Cologne station this morning. With only 48 hours of this continental odyssey remaining, I couldnโ€™t wish to have spent a more enjoyable day in the saddle. Even that pesky wind which, for much of the past week, has been annoying me in a manner that usually only a tiresome Year 9 student can achieve came to the party and blew me along the banks of the Rhine willing me to get to Rotterdam on time. Fabulous. I only wish you could have been here.

Le Grand Tour: Day 60 – Braubach To Hรผrth / Cologne (121km)

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Itโ€™s now day 61 and itโ€™s turning out to be a โ€˜funโ€™ morning. Iโ€™m booked onto a train to Xanten from Cologne but in chaotic scenes very reminiscent of taking a train in the UK, there is some confusion regarding the train that arrived on platform 4 a few minutes ago, wouldnโ€™t let passengers on and then scarpered. I need to change at Duisburgโ€ฆ Iโ€™m forcing myself into โ€˜zenโ€™ mode. It might have been easier to keep cycling and take the train from a quieter station. The plan was to arrive in Xanten – famed for its Roman ruins I Iearnt last night – then cycle over the border into The Netherlands. Come back later today to find out if that ever happens or whether Iโ€™m still here in Germany. Or indeed Cologneโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 59 – Gernsheim To Braubach (135km)

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Such a contrast after three tedious days of cycling. The Rhine has come back to me! It was an epic day in terms of length – 130km – but also in terms of the environment. Finally the steep-sided Rhine valley has materialised and those cliff-top castles have appeared. Today was up there with some of the best cycles of the entire summer 2022 โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ journey. Enjoy the pictures and the videos as I have little energy to add much to what you can seeโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 58 – Philippsburg To Gernsheim (110km)

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In the context of a two-month cycle around Europe I can put up with a few days here and there of uninspiring or troublesome cycling but I do feel for all those people who set their heart of cycling the Canal du Midi or, more pertinently to this week, from Basel to where I am now (about 20km south-west of Frankfurt). It really is keep-your-receipt stuff but unlike a pair of jeans from Marks & Spencers, you canโ€™t take a cycling holiday back to the shop and ask for a refund.

Le Grand Tour: Day 57 – Kehl To Phlippsburg (123km)

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The best thing about day 57 is that it wasnโ€™t day 56. Thatโ€™s not to say that day 57 will go down in history as being a great day of cycling but it wasnโ€™t anywhere near as monotonous as yesterdayโ€™s cycle. And in contrast (because itโ€™s not all about the cyclingโ€ฆ), yesterday evening was fun chatting with Dave from Seattle, the German chap and the French family with their very funny two boys. Tonight here in Phillipsburg itโ€™s just me and the chap in the next tent who I saw for the first time about 30 seconds ago. Heโ€™s wearing a dressing gown and a head torch. Itโ€™s not a look that I have ever coveted on a campsite but who knows? Itโ€™s only 9pm. The evening could yet turn out to be an entertaining oneโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 56 – Kembs To Kehl (120km)

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About 80% of today was deathly dull. Why did I end up cycling the Rhine-Rhรดne Canal again after having cycled it north to south in 2010 and been bored just as rigid back then? I suppose it was because I ended up on the French side of the Rhine last night. Tonightโ€™s short video is a boring one reflecting the day quite wellโ€ฆย 

Le Grand Tour: Day 55 – Konstanz To Kembs (59km + Train + 19km)

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Baselโ€ฆ You almost ruined my day. More later on that score. Basel aside, today was up there with one of the best days of cycling and Iโ€™m so delighted that Iโ€™ve been able to sample at least some of the delights of the shore of the Bodensee. It was the stuff of cycling dreams; beautiful scenery, nice weather, great cycle paths, fascinating places to visit and a satisfying distance covered. Itโ€™s one of those days when you are better off not reading this drivel and just watching the video.

Le Grand Tour: Day 53 – Valendas To Buchs (83km)

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Life is getting complicated, for good reasons. Iโ€™m now in the Swiss town of Buchs and trying to plan tomorrow which will hopefully see me meet two people at either ends of the day; Ken, who is cycling 12 countries in 12 days (see his Twitter feed @highfielder80 for updates and the details of his trip) and my friend Claus (remember him from โ€˜Crossing Europeโ€ฆโ€™?) who I havenโ€™t seen for many years, in Breganz, Austria in the late afternoon. I need a social secretary! Iโ€™m also hatching an interesting plan for Friday but more of that in due courseโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 52 – Andermatt To Valendas (62km)

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And so this pan-European odyssey enters its final phase: the Rhine Cycle Route or EuroVelo 15. But before I could crack on with that this morning, I had some sorting out of loose ends from the penultimate phase: the Rhรดne Cycle Route or EuroVelo 17. I completed that route yesterday upon arrival in Andermatt but this morning finished putting together the podcast about cycling the Rhรดne. This included inserting a chat that I had with my neighbours on the campsite at Andermatt; a couple – Rich and Becca – from West Yorkshire of all places (my neck of the woods) who had cycled some of the route as well. The podcast was published this morning from cafรฉ at the train station in Andermatt but you donโ€™t have to go that far to find it: all the links are at CyclingEurope.org/Podcast.

Le Grand Tour: Day 51 – Ritzingen To Andermatt Via The Furka Pass (54km)

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I did it! I arrived in my spiritual cycling home, Andermatt, a little earlier this afternoon after a lengthy, strenuous, exhilarating and ultimately beautifully satisfying climb to the Furka Pass. Iโ€™m now celebrating with the best CHF5 bottle of wine that the local Coop could sell me accompanied with some good old bread and cheese. This is what cycle-camping is all about!

Le Grand Tour: Day 50 – Sierre To Ritzingen (74km)

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Iโ€™m running out of energy today. Not me personally but my electrical gear. In sorting out my gear last week at the โ‚ฌ35 campsite when the heavens opened and the tent ended up hosting the 2022 Lac Lรฉman swimming championships at the end where my feet are currently positioned, my battery pack stopped working and I inadvertently left the two cables I need to attach my phone to the front wheel dynamo hub somewhere. Although I replaced the battery pack in Aigle, I wonโ€™t be able to replace the cables. Added to this, my WarmShowers host Jean-Daniel has some very curious Swiss sockets in his house and I wasnโ€™t able to charge anything overnight. I have 30% of charge left on this phone and my battery pack is currently being charged in the reception. That should see me through tomorrow to Andermatt. I have made todayโ€™s video but a combination of this lack of power and the Swiss love of 3G as opposed to 4G you are going to have to wait to see it until at least Monday.

Le Grand Tour: Day 49 – Aigle To Sierre (81km)

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On one level – the cycling level – it has been a pretty standard day. Dare I say boring? A flat ride, 90% off road on a good quality path beside the Rhรดne following the route of the EuroVelo 17 or, as it is known locally, national route 1. Sticking to just the cycling for a moment, I say โ€˜flat rideโ€™โ€ฆ I knew I was heading uphill but couldnโ€™t help feel that I was heading downhill. After the turn to cycle east following my brief pause in Martigny, the wind was behind me so this may have added to the sensation of cycling down a very gentle gradient but I think of more significance is the valley itself. Iโ€™ve experienced this before (although not that dubious โ€˜Electric Brayโ€™ place on the west coast of Scotland where I was singularly unimpressedโ€ฆ) in northern Spain in 2019. There too I was cycling through a valley, knew I was cycling uphill beside a river heading in the opposite direction, but had a distinct feeling of going downhill all day. Itโ€™s the brain seeing something – the narrow valley with steep slopes on either side – and convincing the body that it is indeed what the brain sees, despite conclusive evidence to the contrary.

Le Grand Tour: Day 48 – Aigle

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As I thought I would, I have spent the day in Aigle. It rained heavily overnight, continued raining this morning and this afternoon and only decided to stop at around 3pm. It remains very overcast with the clouds hanging around the mountains that surround the town on three sides and it wouldnโ€™t surprise me in the least if we are in for more rain later today. Tomorrow morning there is a chance of rain but things are looking much brighter for the afternoon and continuing into the weekend and next week. Back to you Huwโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 45 – Sault-Brรฉnaz To Seyssel (112km)

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Running a bit late tonight. It was a long day of cycling (although not the longest) but thoroughly enjoyable. I hesitate before I say this (as I would need to think more carefully about all the others) but today was up there with one of the best days so far; not just on the Via Rhรดna but on the entire cycle so far. Another celebration of bridges as you will discover if you choose to watch the video. I hold back on the Hans Zimmer score but todayโ€™s video merited itโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 44 – Lyon To Sault-Brรฉnaz (81km)

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I donโ€™t like Mondaysโ€ฆ Someone has beaten me to the song. I really donโ€™t like Mondays in France as most places are closed. There is a special corner in hell for bank holidays that happen to be on a Monday in France. Today was one of the latter. Nothing open whatsoever this morning. We are celebrating the โ€˜Assumption of Maryโ€™. Not being a man of religion I donโ€™t know what Mary was assuming but perhaps it was that there might be something, somewhere that was open to buy lunch on a Monday bank holiday in France. There isnโ€™t. Even the French are exasperated; one couple who were cycling in the opposite direction stopped me in desperation at around midday asking if Iโ€™d passed an รฉpicerie that was open. I hadnโ€™t. They broke down and sobbed beside the cycle path in desperation. I told them my plan was to survive on my box of peanuts until I could cook something in the evening. I scarpered as quickly as I could lest they use force in getting hold of the cacahuรจtes. When I did I turn to look, I could see them chasing after me using surprisingly fluent Chaucerian language vowing to prise the peanuts from my hands. The entente cordiale only goes so farโ€ฆ They were my peanuts. I digress.

Le Grand Tour: Day 43 – Tain Lโ€™Hermitage To Lyon (By Train)

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Caught the train to Lyon this morning. After all the heat itโ€™s perhaps not surprising that when the rain decided to fall it put on quite an impressive thunder and lightening show. The downpour was, at times, torrential but as I stand here looking over the Rhรดne in the centre of Lyon, the rain has stopped, the clouds are breaking and perhaps we are in for a better afternoon.

Le Grand Tour: Day 42 – Montรฉlimar To Tain Lโ€™Hermitage (96km)

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Ten bridges today. Ten. That means that I went from Drรดme (to the east of the Rhรดne) to the Ardรจche (to the west of the Rhรดne) five times in each direction. In the new reality of Brexit, that probably invalidates my stay in the Schengen zone. There were plenty of other bridges that I didnโ€™t cross. If you have a thing for bridges, come to the Rhรดne Valley!

Le Grand Tour: Day 41 – Chateauneuf-Du-Pape To Montรฉlimar (93km)

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Today has seen some of the best cycling of the trip so far. I had, in my mind, relegated the Via Rhรดna to a fill-the-gap route that I would have to endure in order to get me from the Mediterranean to the Alps. If todayโ€™s cycling is anything to go by, itโ€™s no fill-the-gap route. Far from itโ€ฆ There is real geographical drama in the Rhรดne valley and I can only see that increasing. I (almost) feel sorry for the hoards of touring cyclists passing me heading south to that roundabout in Sรจte which has about as much geographical drama as your grannyโ€™s pond. Iโ€™m heading to the Alps and the drama can only intensify the further north and east I travel. After the relative disappointment of the Canal du Midi, I have embraced – and am loving – the Via Rhรดna after just two days. Montรฉlimar? Mmmโ€ฆ Keep reading.

Le Grand Tour: Day 40 – Montagnac To Chateauneuf-du-Pape Via Sรจte (77km + Train + 24km)

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Day 39 existed. I didnโ€™t just time-warp myself from day 38 to day 40 but having met up with friends Basil and Liz in Pรฉzenas yesterday lunchtime after having done my pit-stop tasks (washing, post office, podcast editingโ€ฆ) we had a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening of drinking, eating, wandering, drinking, eating and drinking. I took one pictureโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 38 – Pouzols Minervois To Montagnac Via Sรจte (134km)

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Iโ€™โ€™m glad to have finished the Canal du Midi section of the Canal des Deux Mers cycle route. Now in Pรฉzenas – Iโ€™ll explain in a moment – the highlight of yesterday was cycling along the excellent voies vertes that brought me inland from Sรจte yesterday evening. Cycling at the end of the day is something that doesnโ€™t often happen (the way I tend to organise my days) but the advantages of cycling at that end of the day are similar to those of early morning cycling; quieter roads, cooler temperatures and the โ€˜golden hourโ€™ sunlight that washes a beautiful soft tint over the landscape. Itโ€™s also worth noting (and remembering) that the winds tend to die down in the evening. Mmmโ€ฆ Perhaps I should do night shifts on the bike.

Le Grand Tour: Day 37 – Alzonne To Pouzols-Minervois (71km)

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Iโ€™m on one bar of 3G tonight so getting anything uploaded aside from some good old text is very doubtful. No, more than doubtful; it wonโ€™t happen as Iโ€™m not even going to try. Iโ€™ll update this post tomorrow morning with the pictures and the video (which is ready to go!) and for anyone thinking of cycling the Canal du Midi, it really is a video you need to watchโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 36 – Toulouse To Alzonne (92km)

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Iโ€™ve seen the Pyrenees for the first time this evening. After so much relatively flat or tame topography over the past five weeks, itโ€™s good to finally have a little drama added to the landscape. They are only in silhouette, shrouded in haze and only just perceptible from the sky but they are definitely there. (Or my glasses need cleaning.) Iโ€™m in a place called Alzonne by the way, about 90km along the canal from Toulouse. Carcassonne is a further 20km to the south east.

Le Grand Tour: Day 35 – Grisolles To Toulouse (31km)

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Iโ€™m still suffering g from the mosquito bites inflicted upon me in Marickโ€™s basement on Thursday night. I really wish I had got out of the bed and killed each one of the little f*****s. Not only would I have gained great pleasure from doing so, I would not now be scratching my way through the day. Last night on the campsite near Grisolles was particularly uncomfortable. On the positive side of things, the bites are receding, slowlyโ€ฆ I need to buy some Autan. Iโ€™m already taking antihistamine tablets but the former was recommended way back in 2010 when I was the victim of a mosquito attack in Italy. I wrote a whole section in โ€˜Crossing Europeโ€ฆโ€™ about mosquitoes and their bites; I should go back and re-read it. I seem to remember there being three factors that increased your susceptibility; being pregnant, having blood group O and beer. I need to drink more wineโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 34 – Agen To Grisolles (94km)

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I judge my WarmShowers hosts on how I provide for WarmShowers guests when I host back at home. Alas in recent years this has been less frequent. When I lived in that beautiful tourist hotspot that is, errโ€ฆ Reading, I hosted quite regularly in the summer. Since moving back to rural Yorkshire Iโ€™ve hosted just three times. In Reading I was half-way between London and Oxford or en route to the West Country. In Yorkshire, despite it being far nicer, Iโ€™m not really on anyoneโ€™s cycle route (although not very far from the Pennine Cycleway – take note!). Anyway, aside from a warm shower, I provide food, drink, Wi-Fi, clothes washing, advice, deep-tissue massageโ€ฆ Well, most of those.

Le Grand Tour: Day 33 – La Rรฉole To Agen (89km)

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There were times this morning when I thought this particular day – the whole trip perhaps – were being derailedโ€ฆ It all started by me heading over the bridge back in the direction of La Rรฉole. Oops! Wrong direction. No big problem; Iโ€™d only cycled perhaps 50 metres across the bridge and by doing so made a nice video clip (yep, you guessed it – watch the videoโ€ฆ).

Le Grand Tour: Day 32 – Bordeaux To La Rรฉole (80km)

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Thereโ€™s no mistaking that I have now arrived in the south of France. Not only has it been hot (in fairness, itโ€™s not been in the least but cold since Brittany) but there have been a long list of things that tick the Southern Europe boxes; lavender, a lizard, terracotta roofs, parched fields of crops, hilltop villages, towns that shut down in the heat of the dayโ€ฆ No cicadas yet but they will come in the next week I imagine.

Le Grand Tour: Day 31 – Bordeaux

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A short one todayโ€ฆ and no video. Itโ€™s often tempting on a non-cycling day to plunge into full tourist mode and spend an exhausting day visiting the sites. Today I havenโ€™t done that. Iโ€™ve spent much of the day wandering aimlessly around – flรขner in French – and sorted out a few bits and pieces along the way. Iโ€™ve had the most expensive haircut of my life (I darenโ€™t admit how much but next time I will check the prices before I sit downโ€ฆ) with my developing beard shaved off (which perhaps doubled the cost), bought some replacement sandals, done my washing, sorted out my car tax and the customs issues with the GoPro (ongoing sagaโ€ฆ) and even checked on my plants back home (via a phone call with my mother). But no video. One thing I havenโ€™t yet done is edit the podcast and that is my job for the next couple of hours. It should be available by the end of the day. Still a while for you to catch up on the previous four โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ episodes (numbers 052 to 055). Tomorrow: the Canal de la Garonneโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 30 – Saint-Fort-Sur-Gironde To Bordeaux (44km + Ferry + 42km)

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Today was a good day. A very good day. Well, apart from the first 10km, but that aside, I loved todayโ€™s cycling. It had everything that you might want from a good cycle touring day; beautiful scenery, variety, a favourable wind, vineyards, good signage, a few nice encounters along the way, quality surfaces, an exciting destination, a laundrette and beer at the end of the day and a day off in your favourite French city to look forward to. My day could only improve if Yorkshire Television* decide to revive 3-2-1 with Ted Rogers* and Dusty Bin. On the subject of which, happy Yorkshire Day!ย 

Le Grand Tour: Day 28 – Saint-Gilles-Croix-De-Vie To La Rochelle (140km)

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Google estimated the distance today at 121km. I wouldnโ€™t normally trust Google distances when it comes to cycling but when I compared the Google route on Google Maps and the EuroVelo 1 / Vรฉlodyssรฉe route on Open Street Map they looked the same so I gave the Google distance a bit more credence than I normally would. How naรฏve am I? I tell the story in todayโ€™s video in which Iโ€™ve included some commentary.

Le Grand Tour: Day 26 – Frossay To La Bernerie-En-Retz (93km – 18km)

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Up early again this morning and almost the first off the site. I was beaten to it by a French solo cyclist, about my age who I exchanged a few words with before he set off home at the end of his week long jaunt along the Loire. The Loire ร  Vรฉlo is, I suspect, what the majority of cyclists on last nightโ€™s site are there to ride. Perhaps a few for the Velodyssรฉe but as itโ€™s so close to the mouth of the river – about 25km – itโ€™s a good place to set up camp at the end of day 1 taking into account you will probably have travelled from elsewhere to get to the start of the route. Itโ€™s also, of course, the start of the EuroVelo 6. I suspect (thereโ€™s a lot of suspecting going on tonight – perhaps someone can confirm) that the EuroVelo 6 is one of the most cycled routes, if not the most cycled, vying for position with the Rhine Cycle Route or EuroVelo 15. I digressโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 24 – Gouarec To Rohan (68km)

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I was up early this morning (when am I not up early in a tent? Iโ€™ve said this many times before but for me itโ€™s not a case of โ€˜waking upโ€™ when Iโ€™m camping itโ€™s a case of when to stop trying to make an effort to get back to sleepโ€ฆ) and was packed by 8am. My official campsite advisor Tim Sanders (who until only a few minutes ago was my โ€˜unofficialโ€™ campsite advisor but as nobody else has offered their services, Iโ€™ve upgraded him to the honorary post; itโ€™ll give him something to chat to Ed Pratt about the next time they meet at their local Park Run in Somerset. Anyway, back to the pointโ€ฆ) โ€ฆMy official campsite advisor Tim Sanders messaged at 8:05 asking โ€œHave you met Geoff?โ€

Le Grand Tour: Day 23 – Morlaix To Gouarec (98km)

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Today was planned to be a short cycle of 50km. In ended up being the second longest cycle yet at 98km. If nothing else, it will work wonders on the daily average which had dipped down to 75km. I need to get it back up to 80km+ to be in with a realistic chance of making it back to Rotterdam before the return ferry sets off on September 3rd.

Le Grand Tour: Day 22 – Morlaix – โ€œIf They Bite You, Bite Them Backโ€

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According to the birdโ€™s eye view of Morlaix in the image below, thatโ€™s the motto of the town. Original, no? Itโ€™s been a hot day so far, despite Brittany being the cold corner of the map of France on last nightโ€™s TV forecast. I’ve returned to the hotel for a siestaโ€ฆ Iโ€™ll head back out soon for anothercwander. Thereโ€™s a festival of all things Breton taking place in Place Allende this afternoon so Iโ€™ll perhaps update this later. In the meantime, note that episode 055 of The Cycling Europe Podcast was published this morning – part 4 of my โ€™Grand Tourโ€™ series – so if you have 55 minutes to spaceโ€ฆ All the links can be found by navigating over to the podcast page of the website.