Month: August 2022

Le Grand Tour: Day 59 – Gernsheim To Braubach (135km)

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Such a contrast after three tedious days of cycling. The Rhine has come back to me! It was an epic day in terms of length – 130km – but also in terms of the environment. Finally the steep-sided Rhine valley has materialised and those cliff-top castles have appeared. Today was up there with some of the best cycles of the entire summer 2022 โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ journey. Enjoy the pictures and the videos as I have little energy to add much to what you can seeโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 58 – Philippsburg To Gernsheim (110km)

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In the context of a two-month cycle around Europe I can put up with a few days here and there of uninspiring or troublesome cycling but I do feel for all those people who set their heart of cycling the Canal du Midi or, more pertinently to this week, from Basel to where I am now (about 20km south-west of Frankfurt). It really is keep-your-receipt stuff but unlike a pair of jeans from Marks & Spencers, you canโ€™t take a cycling holiday back to the shop and ask for a refund.

Le Grand Tour: Day 57 – Kehl To Phlippsburg (123km)

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The best thing about day 57 is that it wasnโ€™t day 56. Thatโ€™s not to say that day 57 will go down in history as being a great day of cycling but it wasnโ€™t anywhere near as monotonous as yesterdayโ€™s cycle. And in contrast (because itโ€™s not all about the cyclingโ€ฆ), yesterday evening was fun chatting with Dave from Seattle, the German chap and the French family with their very funny two boys. Tonight here in Phillipsburg itโ€™s just me and the chap in the next tent who I saw for the first time about 30 seconds ago. Heโ€™s wearing a dressing gown and a head torch. Itโ€™s not a look that I have ever coveted on a campsite but who knows? Itโ€™s only 9pm. The evening could yet turn out to be an entertaining oneโ€ฆ

silhouette photography of biker on top of hill

How To Choose The Best Online Bikeshop

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There are a lot of online bikeshops out there these days. How do you choose the best one for your needs? It can be tricky, but it’s definitely not impossible. In this blog post, we will discuss some factors to consider when making your decision. We’ll also provide a few tips to help make the process a little bit easier for you. So, whether you’re looking for your first bike or just need to replace an old one, read on!

Le Grand Tour: Day 56 – Kembs To Kehl (120km)

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About 80% of today was deathly dull. Why did I end up cycling the Rhine-Rhรดne Canal again after having cycled it north to south in 2010 and been bored just as rigid back then? I suppose it was because I ended up on the French side of the Rhine last night. Tonightโ€™s short video is a boring one reflecting the day quite wellโ€ฆย 

Le Grand Tour: Day 55 – Konstanz To Kembs (59km + Train + 19km)

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Baselโ€ฆ You almost ruined my day. More later on that score. Basel aside, today was up there with one of the best days of cycling and Iโ€™m so delighted that Iโ€™ve been able to sample at least some of the delights of the shore of the Bodensee. It was the stuff of cycling dreams; beautiful scenery, nice weather, great cycle paths, fascinating places to visit and a satisfying distance covered. Itโ€™s one of those days when you are better off not reading this drivel and just watching the video.

Le Grand Tour: Day 53 – Valendas To Buchs (83km)

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Life is getting complicated, for good reasons. Iโ€™m now in the Swiss town of Buchs and trying to plan tomorrow which will hopefully see me meet two people at either ends of the day; Ken, who is cycling 12 countries in 12 days (see his Twitter feed @highfielder80 for updates and the details of his trip) and my friend Claus (remember him from โ€˜Crossing Europeโ€ฆโ€™?) who I havenโ€™t seen for many years, in Breganz, Austria in the late afternoon. I need a social secretary! Iโ€™m also hatching an interesting plan for Friday but more of that in due courseโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 52 – Andermatt To Valendas (62km)

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And so this pan-European odyssey enters its final phase: the Rhine Cycle Route or EuroVelo 15. But before I could crack on with that this morning, I had some sorting out of loose ends from the penultimate phase: the Rhรดne Cycle Route or EuroVelo 17. I completed that route yesterday upon arrival in Andermatt but this morning finished putting together the podcast about cycling the Rhรดne. This included inserting a chat that I had with my neighbours on the campsite at Andermatt; a couple – Rich and Becca – from West Yorkshire of all places (my neck of the woods) who had cycled some of the route as well. The podcast was published this morning from cafรฉ at the train station in Andermatt but you donโ€™t have to go that far to find it: all the links are at CyclingEurope.org/Podcast.

Episode 058: Le Grand Tour, Part 7 – La Via Rhรดna / EuroVelo 17

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The Cycling Europe Podcast continues to follow Andrew Sykes as he cycles on his โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ of Europe. In this episode of the podcast he sets off from the Mediterranean resort of Sรจte and follows the EuroVelo 17 – the Rhรดne Cycle Route (known as the Via Rhรดna in France) – to Andermatt, high in the Swiss Alps. Over 12 days he travels more than 1,000km from sea to source exploring the places and meeting the people as he cycles. The weather doesnโ€™t always make life easy and there will be some challenging cycling along the way. Itโ€™s an epic podcast for an epic journey along one of Europeโ€™s most iconic rivers but will he have the energy to climb to the Furka Pass on the final day of his cycle? The music is by Rob Ainsley.

Le Grand Tour: Day 51 – Ritzingen To Andermatt Via The Furka Pass (54km)

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I did it! I arrived in my spiritual cycling home, Andermatt, a little earlier this afternoon after a lengthy, strenuous, exhilarating and ultimately beautifully satisfying climb to the Furka Pass. Iโ€™m now celebrating with the best CHF5 bottle of wine that the local Coop could sell me accompanied with some good old bread and cheese. This is what cycle-camping is all about!

Le Grand Tour: Day 50 – Sierre To Ritzingen (74km)

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Iโ€™m running out of energy today. Not me personally but my electrical gear. In sorting out my gear last week at the โ‚ฌ35 campsite when the heavens opened and the tent ended up hosting the 2022 Lac Lรฉman swimming championships at the end where my feet are currently positioned, my battery pack stopped working and I inadvertently left the two cables I need to attach my phone to the front wheel dynamo hub somewhere. Although I replaced the battery pack in Aigle, I wonโ€™t be able to replace the cables. Added to this, my WarmShowers host Jean-Daniel has some very curious Swiss sockets in his house and I wasnโ€™t able to charge anything overnight. I have 30% of charge left on this phone and my battery pack is currently being charged in the reception. That should see me through tomorrow to Andermatt. I have made todayโ€™s video but a combination of this lack of power and the Swiss love of 3G as opposed to 4G you are going to have to wait to see it until at least Monday.

Le Grand Tour: Day 49 – Aigle To Sierre (81km)

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On one level – the cycling level – it has been a pretty standard day. Dare I say boring? A flat ride, 90% off road on a good quality path beside the Rhรดne following the route of the EuroVelo 17 or, as it is known locally, national route 1. Sticking to just the cycling for a moment, I say โ€˜flat rideโ€™โ€ฆ I knew I was heading uphill but couldnโ€™t help feel that I was heading downhill. After the turn to cycle east following my brief pause in Martigny, the wind was behind me so this may have added to the sensation of cycling down a very gentle gradient but I think of more significance is the valley itself. Iโ€™ve experienced this before (although not that dubious โ€˜Electric Brayโ€™ place on the west coast of Scotland where I was singularly unimpressedโ€ฆ) in northern Spain in 2019. There too I was cycling through a valley, knew I was cycling uphill beside a river heading in the opposite direction, but had a distinct feeling of going downhill all day. Itโ€™s the brain seeing something – the narrow valley with steep slopes on either side – and convincing the body that it is indeed what the brain sees, despite conclusive evidence to the contrary.

Le Grand Tour: Day 48 – Aigle

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As I thought I would, I have spent the day in Aigle. It rained heavily overnight, continued raining this morning and this afternoon and only decided to stop at around 3pm. It remains very overcast with the clouds hanging around the mountains that surround the town on three sides and it wouldnโ€™t surprise me in the least if we are in for more rain later today. Tomorrow morning there is a chance of rain but things are looking much brighter for the afternoon and continuing into the weekend and next week. Back to you Huwโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 45 – Sault-Brรฉnaz To Seyssel (112km)

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Running a bit late tonight. It was a long day of cycling (although not the longest) but thoroughly enjoyable. I hesitate before I say this (as I would need to think more carefully about all the others) but today was up there with one of the best days so far; not just on the Via Rhรดna but on the entire cycle so far. Another celebration of bridges as you will discover if you choose to watch the video. I hold back on the Hans Zimmer score but todayโ€™s video merited itโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 44 – Lyon To Sault-Brรฉnaz (81km)

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I donโ€™t like Mondaysโ€ฆ Someone has beaten me to the song. I really donโ€™t like Mondays in France as most places are closed. There is a special corner in hell for bank holidays that happen to be on a Monday in France. Today was one of the latter. Nothing open whatsoever this morning. We are celebrating the โ€˜Assumption of Maryโ€™. Not being a man of religion I donโ€™t know what Mary was assuming but perhaps it was that there might be something, somewhere that was open to buy lunch on a Monday bank holiday in France. There isnโ€™t. Even the French are exasperated; one couple who were cycling in the opposite direction stopped me in desperation at around midday asking if Iโ€™d passed an รฉpicerie that was open. I hadnโ€™t. They broke down and sobbed beside the cycle path in desperation. I told them my plan was to survive on my box of peanuts until I could cook something in the evening. I scarpered as quickly as I could lest they use force in getting hold of the cacahuรจtes. When I did I turn to look, I could see them chasing after me using surprisingly fluent Chaucerian language vowing to prise the peanuts from my hands. The entente cordiale only goes so farโ€ฆ They were my peanuts. I digress.

Le Grand Tour: Day 43 – Tain Lโ€™Hermitage To Lyon (By Train)

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Caught the train to Lyon this morning. After all the heat itโ€™s perhaps not surprising that when the rain decided to fall it put on quite an impressive thunder and lightening show. The downpour was, at times, torrential but as I stand here looking over the Rhรดne in the centre of Lyon, the rain has stopped, the clouds are breaking and perhaps we are in for a better afternoon.

Le Grand Tour: Day 42 – Montรฉlimar To Tain Lโ€™Hermitage (96km)

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Ten bridges today. Ten. That means that I went from Drรดme (to the east of the Rhรดne) to the Ardรจche (to the west of the Rhรดne) five times in each direction. In the new reality of Brexit, that probably invalidates my stay in the Schengen zone. There were plenty of other bridges that I didnโ€™t cross. If you have a thing for bridges, come to the Rhรดne Valley!

Le Grand Tour: Day 41 – Chateauneuf-Du-Pape To Montรฉlimar (93km)

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Today has seen some of the best cycling of the trip so far. I had, in my mind, relegated the Via Rhรดna to a fill-the-gap route that I would have to endure in order to get me from the Mediterranean to the Alps. If todayโ€™s cycling is anything to go by, itโ€™s no fill-the-gap route. Far from itโ€ฆ There is real geographical drama in the Rhรดne valley and I can only see that increasing. I (almost) feel sorry for the hoards of touring cyclists passing me heading south to that roundabout in Sรจte which has about as much geographical drama as your grannyโ€™s pond. Iโ€™m heading to the Alps and the drama can only intensify the further north and east I travel. After the relative disappointment of the Canal du Midi, I have embraced – and am loving – the Via Rhรดna after just two days. Montรฉlimar? Mmmโ€ฆ Keep reading.

Le Grand Tour: Day 40 – Montagnac To Chateauneuf-du-Pape Via Sรจte (77km + Train + 24km)

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Day 39 existed. I didnโ€™t just time-warp myself from day 38 to day 40 but having met up with friends Basil and Liz in Pรฉzenas yesterday lunchtime after having done my pit-stop tasks (washing, post office, podcast editingโ€ฆ) we had a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening of drinking, eating, wandering, drinking, eating and drinking. I took one pictureโ€ฆ

Episode 057: Le Grand Tour, Part 6 – La Vรฉloroute Des Deux Mers From Bordeaux To Sรจte / Canal De La Garonne & Canal Du Midi

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The Cycling Europe Podcast continues to follow Andrew Sykes as he cycles on his โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ of Europe. He has now arrived in Bordeaux at the start of the โ€˜Two Seasโ€™ cycle route – La Vรฉloroute Des Deux Mers – that will take him along the Canal de la Garonne to Toulouse and then the famous Canal du Midi to Sรจte on the Mediterranean coast. As he cycles he takes time to speak to the people he meets and explore the places he visits. And what will he make of the notorious Canal du Midi towpath that he encounters?

Le Grand Tour: Day 38 – Pouzols Minervois To Montagnac Via Sรจte (134km)

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Iโ€™โ€™m glad to have finished the Canal du Midi section of the Canal des Deux Mers cycle route. Now in Pรฉzenas – Iโ€™ll explain in a moment – the highlight of yesterday was cycling along the excellent voies vertes that brought me inland from Sรจte yesterday evening. Cycling at the end of the day is something that doesnโ€™t often happen (the way I tend to organise my days) but the advantages of cycling at that end of the day are similar to those of early morning cycling; quieter roads, cooler temperatures and the โ€˜golden hourโ€™ sunlight that washes a beautiful soft tint over the landscape. Itโ€™s also worth noting (and remembering) that the winds tend to die down in the evening. Mmmโ€ฆ Perhaps I should do night shifts on the bike.

Le Grand Tour: Day 37 – Alzonne To Pouzols-Minervois (71km)

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Iโ€™m on one bar of 3G tonight so getting anything uploaded aside from some good old text is very doubtful. No, more than doubtful; it wonโ€™t happen as Iโ€™m not even going to try. Iโ€™ll update this post tomorrow morning with the pictures and the video (which is ready to go!) and for anyone thinking of cycling the Canal du Midi, it really is a video you need to watchโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 36 – Toulouse To Alzonne (92km)

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Iโ€™ve seen the Pyrenees for the first time this evening. After so much relatively flat or tame topography over the past five weeks, itโ€™s good to finally have a little drama added to the landscape. They are only in silhouette, shrouded in haze and only just perceptible from the sky but they are definitely there. (Or my glasses need cleaning.) Iโ€™m in a place called Alzonne by the way, about 90km along the canal from Toulouse. Carcassonne is a further 20km to the south east.

Le Grand Tour: Day 35 – Grisolles To Toulouse (31km)

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Iโ€™m still suffering g from the mosquito bites inflicted upon me in Marickโ€™s basement on Thursday night. I really wish I had got out of the bed and killed each one of the little f*****s. Not only would I have gained great pleasure from doing so, I would not now be scratching my way through the day. Last night on the campsite near Grisolles was particularly uncomfortable. On the positive side of things, the bites are receding, slowlyโ€ฆ I need to buy some Autan. Iโ€™m already taking antihistamine tablets but the former was recommended way back in 2010 when I was the victim of a mosquito attack in Italy. I wrote a whole section in โ€˜Crossing Europeโ€ฆโ€™ about mosquitoes and their bites; I should go back and re-read it. I seem to remember there being three factors that increased your susceptibility; being pregnant, having blood group O and beer. I need to drink more wineโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 34 – Agen To Grisolles (94km)

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I judge my WarmShowers hosts on how I provide for WarmShowers guests when I host back at home. Alas in recent years this has been less frequent. When I lived in that beautiful tourist hotspot that is, errโ€ฆ Reading, I hosted quite regularly in the summer. Since moving back to rural Yorkshire Iโ€™ve hosted just three times. In Reading I was half-way between London and Oxford or en route to the West Country. In Yorkshire, despite it being far nicer, Iโ€™m not really on anyoneโ€™s cycle route (although not very far from the Pennine Cycleway – take note!). Anyway, aside from a warm shower, I provide food, drink, Wi-Fi, clothes washing, advice, deep-tissue massageโ€ฆ Well, most of those.

Le Grand Tour: Day 33 – La Rรฉole To Agen (89km)

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There were times this morning when I thought this particular day – the whole trip perhaps – were being derailedโ€ฆ It all started by me heading over the bridge back in the direction of La Rรฉole. Oops! Wrong direction. No big problem; Iโ€™d only cycled perhaps 50 metres across the bridge and by doing so made a nice video clip (yep, you guessed it – watch the videoโ€ฆ).

Le Grand Tour: Day 32 – Bordeaux To La Rรฉole (80km)

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Thereโ€™s no mistaking that I have now arrived in the south of France. Not only has it been hot (in fairness, itโ€™s not been in the least but cold since Brittany) but there have been a long list of things that tick the Southern Europe boxes; lavender, a lizard, terracotta roofs, parched fields of crops, hilltop villages, towns that shut down in the heat of the dayโ€ฆ No cicadas yet but they will come in the next week I imagine.

Episode 056: Le Grand Tour, Part 5 – La Vรฉlodyssรฉe From Morlaix To Royan / EuroVelo 1

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The Cycling Europe Podcast continues to follow Andrew Sykes as he cycles on his โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ of Europe. After a day off in Morlaix, Brittany, Andrew sets off cycling south along the EuroVelo 1 – known locally as the Vรฉlodyssรฉe – following a disused railway track and then the Nantes-Brest Canal before continuing along the west coast of France to La Rochelle. He takes time to explore the attractions along the way including the historic town of Josselin and, with the help of a shuttle bus for bicycles over the bridge, the World War II submarine pens in Saint-Nazaire. The music is by Rob Ainsley.

Le Grand Tour: Day 31 – Bordeaux

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A short one todayโ€ฆ and no video. Itโ€™s often tempting on a non-cycling day to plunge into full tourist mode and spend an exhausting day visiting the sites. Today I havenโ€™t done that. Iโ€™ve spent much of the day wandering aimlessly around – flรขner in French – and sorted out a few bits and pieces along the way. Iโ€™ve had the most expensive haircut of my life (I darenโ€™t admit how much but next time I will check the prices before I sit downโ€ฆ) with my developing beard shaved off (which perhaps doubled the cost), bought some replacement sandals, done my washing, sorted out my car tax and the customs issues with the GoPro (ongoing sagaโ€ฆ) and even checked on my plants back home (via a phone call with my mother). But no video. One thing I havenโ€™t yet done is edit the podcast and that is my job for the next couple of hours. It should be available by the end of the day. Still a while for you to catch up on the previous four โ€˜Grand Tourโ€™ episodes (numbers 052 to 055). Tomorrow: the Canal de la Garonneโ€ฆ

Le Grand Tour: Day 30 – Saint-Fort-Sur-Gironde To Bordeaux (44km + Ferry + 42km)

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Today was a good day. A very good day. Well, apart from the first 10km, but that aside, I loved todayโ€™s cycling. It had everything that you might want from a good cycle touring day; beautiful scenery, variety, a favourable wind, vineyards, good signage, a few nice encounters along the way, quality surfaces, an exciting destination, a laundrette and beer at the end of the day and a day off in your favourite French city to look forward to. My day could only improve if Yorkshire Television* decide to revive 3-2-1 with Ted Rogers* and Dusty Bin. On the subject of which, happy Yorkshire Day!ย