Exploring Emilia-Romagna By Bike: Top Cycling Routes

By Andrew on May 29, 2024 • ( Leave a comment )

In publishing Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda at the start of the month, I was required to get to grips with producing a properly formatted ePUB document. Nothing to do with drinking in your local; everything to do with eBooks. It’s the format that is required by the online distributors. Earlier today I spent a bit of time going back over my first book – Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie – and reformatting it as an ePUB document. It means that it is easier to navigate. I took the opportunity of reviewing the prologue to that book. It was interesting re-reading what I had written at the time, especially my comments regarding the development of the Italian section of the EuroVelo 5 back in 2008 (when I was beginning to plan the trip).

I was quoting the description of the route as produced by the European Cyclists’ Federation:

The final part of the route was described as follows:

“Continue to… Como in Lombardy. Northern Italy has several initiatives to build cyclists facilities. [For the] last stage to Rome you follow the national cycle route of “Ciclopista del Sole”. It is not signed yet, but maps and guidebooks are available.”

There we had it! More or less the entire second half of the route of the EuroVelo 5 summed up in fewer than forty words. What’s more, it didn’t seem to be accurate when compared to the scant amount of information available from FIAB, the Federazione Italiana Amici della Bicicletta. Just as the Swiss had ticked the box marked organised, the Italians appeared to be doing the opposite. I make no comment.

Crossing Europe on a Bike Called Reggie

So back in 2008 things didn’t appear to be very well developed when it came to cycling infrastructure in Italy. In 2010 I cycled the route and didn’t really find much on-the-ground support in terms of dedicated cycle routes, signage etc…

However, perhaps things have improved. An email has just arrived from the tourist board in the region of Emilia Romagna. It’s the region that cuts across northern Italy and includes iconic places such as Parma, Modena, Bologna, Ravenna and Rimini. I cycled through the region back in 2010 during that ‘Crossing Europe...’ trip passing through Piacenza and Parma before heading over the mountains via the Passo della Cisa to Pisa on the west coast. It was a memorable ride but I do have distinct memories of having to contend with heavy traffic at times.

…although no traffic on those photos from 2010.

You may see the region of Emilia-Romagna on your TV screens later in the summer as, for the first time in its history, the Tour de France is setting off from Italy and from the Emilia-Romagna region…

We may not all be up for the strenuous rides that the professionals in the Tour de France will be taking on, but here are some suggestions from the authorities in Emilia-Romagna of a few more manageable cycles:

Ciclovia del Navile (Easy) – Distance: 35 km

The Ciclovia del Navile is a 35-kilometre cycle (and pedestrian) path that starts at the Sostegno della Bova, just outside the centre of Bologna, Emilia Romagna’s capital city. The route is suitable for everyone and combines history, industrial archaeology and nature. The Ciclovia del Navile follows the ancient Navile canal, which was built in 1221 and served as a waterway connecting Bologna to the Po River; ultimately, linking the city to the sea. This is a flat route comprising dirt roads, paths and short asphalt stretches, suitable for less experienced cyclists too.

Food Valley Bike (Easy/Intermediate) – Distance: 70 km

This is an alternative cycling experience that combines the love for bicycles with the passion for food. Food Valley Bike is a journey through the heart of the Parma lowlands, a region famous for its culinary delights (including the famous prosciutto di Parma). The cycle path spans approximately 70 km – divided into three stages – and is guided by two main themes: pasta and cold cuts, the undisputed protagonists of the local cuisine. As well as food, cyclists can enjoy passing through charming villages, castles and museums along the way – a great experience that will delight both cycling enthusiasts and food lovers alike.

Valli di Comacchio Loop (Easy) – Distance: 49 km

This route is a tranquil journey through the stunning Po Delta Park, one of the most beautiful oases in Italy and the second largest wetland in Europe, hosting hundreds of animal and plant species. Cyclists can enjoy the scenic beauty of the wetlands and the chance to spot the vibrant pink flamingos that inhabit this area. A highlight of the loop is the Argine degli Angeli, a spectacular path that gives the feeling of cycling between waters, with the sea on both sides.

Rotta del Sale Bike Trail (Easy/Intermediate) – Distance: 278 km

The Rotta del Sale Bike Trail is a remarkable 278-kilometre off-road cycling route that connects the coastal town of Cervia – known as the ‘salt town’ due to its production of ‘sweet salt’ – to the city of Venice. Actually, the trail recreates an ancient sea route that was crucial for salt trade during the Middle Ages. Along the way, cyclists can expect encounters with protected areas (such as the Po Delta Park), ancient pine forests and enchanting places like the lagoon town of Comacchio, known as the “little Venice” due to its vast network of canals. Despite its length, the Rotta del Sale Bike Trail is completely flat and accessible to all.

Romagna Toscana Cycling Route (Intermediate) – Distance: 126 km

The Romagna Toscana Cycling Route is a 126-km long path that connects the towns of Bagno di Romagna and Castrocaro Terme/Terra del Sole, renowned for their thermal hot springs. The route winds through low traffic asphalt roads and gravel paths, woodlands and hills – and explorers keen to go off-piste should consider tracking down a hot-spring. The Romagna Toscana Cycling Route is also linked to other cycling routes and walking paths that reach different parts of Italy and Europe. The route has been recognised in The Green Travel List 2024 by Wanderlust due to the community efforts to help restore the route after the flooding that affected the region last year.

Monte Cusna Loop (Expert); Distance: 52.3 km

The Monte Cusna Loop is an exhilarating cycling adventure through the wild and little-known Reggio Emilia Apennines. Monte Cusna is the second highest peak in the northern Apennines, but it is much steeper – hence the local nickname of “the Giant.” Only suitable for expert cyclists, the loop stretches 52.3 km with a significant elevation gain of 1,780 m. It offers a mix of high mountain singletrack and narrow ridge trails, requiring excellent riding skills and a good dose of hike-a-bike. The expert-level route promises an exhilarating ascent with rewarding panoramic views.

Things, it seems, have improved somewhat since 2008… Much more information about the EuroVelo 5 – the Via Romea Francigena – on the EuroVelo website.

Header image credit: Terrabici

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Le Grand Tour on a Bike Called Wanda, was published in May 2024 and recounts Andrew P. Sykes’ journey around France, into the Alps and down the Rhine in the summer of 2022. It is available as a paperback and as and eBook from Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.com (and other international Amazon sites). The paperback is also available from Waterstones or Foyles and the eBook from Apple iBooks.

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