The difference between the situation I am tonight in Aigle, Switzerland compared to the situation I was in in Excenevex near Lac Lรฉman just 24 hours ago is a stark one to say the least. But before I get into that, I have some catching up to doโฆ
Very wet evening. I am reminded of cycling across Europe in 2010. Arrived in Switzerlandโฆ then left Switzerland. Full details tomorrowโฆ
Running a bit late tonight. It was a long day of cycling (although not the longest) but thoroughly enjoyable. I hesitate before I say this (as I would need to think more carefully about all the others) but today was up there with one of the best days so far; not just on the Via Rhรดna but on the entire cycle so far. Another celebration of bridges as you will discover if you choose to watch the video. I hold back on the Hans Zimmer score but todayโs video merited itโฆ
I donโt like Mondaysโฆ Someone has beaten me to the song. I really donโt like Mondays in France as most places are closed. There is a special corner in hell for bank holidays that happen to be on a Monday in France. Today was one of the latter. Nothing open whatsoever this morning. We are celebrating the โAssumption of Maryโ. Not being a man of religion I donโt know what Mary was assuming but perhaps it was that there might be something, somewhere that was open to buy lunch on a Monday bank holiday in France. There isnโt. Even the French are exasperated; one couple who were cycling in the opposite direction stopped me in desperation at around midday asking if Iโd passed an รฉpicerie that was open. I hadnโt. They broke down and sobbed beside the cycle path in desperation. I told them my plan was to survive on my box of peanuts until I could cook something in the evening. I scarpered as quickly as I could lest they use force in getting hold of the cacahuรจtes. When I did I turn to look, I could see them chasing after me using surprisingly fluent Chaucerian language vowing to prise the peanuts from my hands. The entente cordiale only goes so farโฆ They were my peanuts. I digress.
Caught the train to Lyon this morning. After all the heat itโs perhaps not surprising that when the rain decided to fall it put on quite an impressive thunder and lightening show. The downpour was, at times, torrential but as I stand here looking over the Rhรดne in the centre of Lyon, the rain has stopped, the clouds are breaking and perhaps we are in for a better afternoon.
Ten bridges today. Ten. That means that I went from Drรดme (to the east of the Rhรดne) to the Ardรจche (to the west of the Rhรดne) five times in each direction. In the new reality of Brexit, that probably invalidates my stay in the Schengen zone. There were plenty of other bridges that I didnโt cross. If you have a thing for bridges, come to the Rhรดne Valley!
Today has seen some of the best cycling of the trip so far. I had, in my mind, relegated the Via Rhรดna to a fill-the-gap route that I would have to endure in order to get me from the Mediterranean to the Alps. If todayโs cycling is anything to go by, itโs no fill-the-gap route. Far from itโฆ There is real geographical drama in the Rhรดne valley and I can only see that increasing. I (almost) feel sorry for the hoards of touring cyclists passing me heading south to that roundabout in Sรจte which has about as much geographical drama as your grannyโs pond. Iโm heading to the Alps and the drama can only intensify the further north and east I travel. After the relative disappointment of the Canal du Midi, I have embraced – and am loving – the Via Rhรดna after just two days. Montรฉlimar? Mmmโฆ Keep reading.
Day 39 existed. I didnโt just time-warp myself from day 38 to day 40 but having met up with friends Basil and Liz in Pรฉzenas yesterday lunchtime after having done my pit-stop tasks (washing, post office, podcast editingโฆ) we had a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening of drinking, eating, wandering, drinking, eating and drinking. I took one pictureโฆ
