Ten bridges today. Ten. That means that I went from Drรดme (to the east of the Rhรดne) to the Ardรจche (to the west of the Rhรดne) five times in each direction. In the new reality of Brexit, that probably invalidates my stay in the Schengen zone. There were plenty of other bridges that I didnโt cross. If you have a thing for bridges, come to the Rhรดne Valley!
Today has seen some of the best cycling of the trip so far. I had, in my mind, relegated the Via Rhรดna to a fill-the-gap route that I would have to endure in order to get me from the Mediterranean to the Alps. If todayโs cycling is anything to go by, itโs no fill-the-gap route. Far from itโฆ There is real geographical drama in the Rhรดne valley and I can only see that increasing. I (almost) feel sorry for the hoards of touring cyclists passing me heading south to that roundabout in Sรจte which has about as much geographical drama as your grannyโs pond. Iโm heading to the Alps and the drama can only intensify the further north and east I travel. After the relative disappointment of the Canal du Midi, I have embraced – and am loving – the Via Rhรดna after just two days. Montรฉlimar? Mmmโฆ Keep reading.
Day 39 existed. I didnโt just time-warp myself from day 38 to day 40 but having met up with friends Basil and Liz in Pรฉzenas yesterday lunchtime after having done my pit-stop tasks (washing, post office, podcast editingโฆ) we had a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening of drinking, eating, wandering, drinking, eating and drinking. I took one pictureโฆ
Iโโm glad to have finished the Canal du Midi section of the Canal des Deux Mers cycle route. Now in Pรฉzenas – Iโll explain in a moment – the highlight of yesterday was cycling along the excellent voies vertes that brought me inland from Sรจte yesterday evening. Cycling at the end of the day is something that doesnโt often happen (the way I tend to organise my days) but the advantages of cycling at that end of the day are similar to those of early morning cycling; quieter roads, cooler temperatures and the โgolden hourโ sunlight that washes a beautiful soft tint over the landscape. Itโs also worth noting (and remembering) that the winds tend to die down in the evening. Mmmโฆ Perhaps I should do night shifts on the bike.
Iโm on one bar of 3G tonight so getting anything uploaded aside from some good old text is very doubtful. No, more than doubtful; it wonโt happen as Iโm not even going to try. Iโll update this post tomorrow morning with the pictures and the video (which is ready to go!) and for anyone thinking of cycling the Canal du Midi, it really is a video you need to watchโฆ
Iโve seen the Pyrenees for the first time this evening. After so much relatively flat or tame topography over the past five weeks, itโs good to finally have a little drama added to the landscape. They are only in silhouette, shrouded in haze and only just perceptible from the sky but they are definitely there. (Or my glasses need cleaning.) Iโm in a place called Alzonne by the way, about 90km along the canal from Toulouse. Carcassonne is a further 20km to the south east.
Iโm still suffering g from the mosquito bites inflicted upon me in Marickโs basement on Thursday night. I really wish I had got out of the bed and killed each one of the little f*****s. Not only would I have gained great pleasure from doing so, I would not now be scratching my way through the day. Last night on the campsite near Grisolles was particularly uncomfortable. On the positive side of things, the bites are receding, slowlyโฆ I need to buy some Autan. Iโm already taking antihistamine tablets but the former was recommended way back in 2010 when I was the victim of a mosquito attack in Italy. I wrote a whole section in โCrossing Europeโฆโ about mosquitoes and their bites; I should go back and re-read it. I seem to remember there being three factors that increased your susceptibility; being pregnant, having blood group O and beer. I need to drink more wineโฆ
I judge my WarmShowers hosts on how I provide for WarmShowers guests when I host back at home. Alas in recent years this has been less frequent. When I lived in that beautiful tourist hotspot that is, errโฆ Reading, I hosted quite regularly in the summer. Since moving back to rural Yorkshire Iโve hosted just three times. In Reading I was half-way between London and Oxford or en route to the West Country. In Yorkshire, despite it being far nicer, Iโm not really on anyoneโs cycle route (although not very far from the Pennine Cycleway – take note!). Anyway, aside from a warm shower, I provide food, drink, Wi-Fi, clothes washing, advice, deep-tissue massageโฆ Well, most of those.
