Tag Archives: St Gotthard Pass

Canterbury To Venice: Alpine Advice

If you wake up at 3am and can’t get back to sleep, what do you do? Check your emails! And here is one from Hannah;

Dear Andrew,

Firstly, thankyou for your website it has come in extremely useful helping me plan a similar route! Thanks. It’s a pleasure.

My friend and I are planning to cycle from Canterbury to Venice in a week’s time. I am having difficulty in planning a route over the Alps. So did I; too many hills to choose from. I know that we want to stop in Luzern and Milano and go via the St Gotthard pass, (ah! you have made the big decision then)however I have a few questions regarding the pass as I’m relatively new to long distance cycling! Me too, compared to most. Best tactic: make it up as you go along.

Does this route avoid tunnels? I was told cyclist weren’t allowed through tunnels in the Alps. Good question! It depends what you mean by a ‘tunnel’. If you mean the very long ones that whisk you under the Alps, you still have the option of taking the train before you get to Andermatt, but I’m going to assume that you don’t want to go through a very long tunnel and that you mean short tunnels instead, the ones that any road in any mountainous area is bound to go through. The road from Lucern to Altdorf skirts around Lake Lucern and once you have crossed the lake at Beckenried, there are a few gallery type tunnels that are cut into the rock. Once you start to climb up towards th St. Gotthard Pass, the route is more or less tunnel free, especially if you choose to take the old cobbled route (recommended) on the way up. It’s a similar story on the way back down and again, I would imagine that you would choose to take the old cobbled switchback road rather than the main road that speeds you down to Airolo. In essence, don’t worry about tunnels. There will be a few short ones but I never saw any signs banning cyclists from them. It would be difficult to do so as the higher you get, the fewer road options there are. After Lucern it’s either the road to the pass or… the road to the pass.

Also we are planning to average 50 miles a day for our trip with a few rest days in between. I noticed that for this part of your trip you covered a lot of ground between Lucern and Como. Was this due to necessity or would it be possible to stop more frequently during this leg? We are planning on taking a tent to enable us more freedom. Good idea to take a tent. There is a campsite in Lucern - a couple of kilometres south of the town on the eastern side of the lake. The next place I stayed was in Andermatt but that was a long day in the saddle. There is a campsite in Altdorf (although I didn’t of course stay there) but not one that I know of between Altdorf and Andermatt. Andermatt has one – next to the entrance to the cable car on the far side of the town – but after that the next place to camp is Bellinzona unless you choose to ‘wild camp’ on the mountain (probably not recommended). If you can afford to stay in hotels or hostels, that may increase your options – you could stay in the hotel at the pass itself(expensive?) and there are plenty of hotels in Airolo.

Also I have not yet bought any detailed maps for the route yet. I wanted to wait until I had a rough idea of where we were going until I invested. Do you have any recommendations for good cycling maps? I used the Michelin 1:200,000 maps. See this post on the website and you will be able to read my logic for choosing them. Another good resource for cycling across Switzerland is the excellent website you’ll find here. It has very detailed maps and also suggestions for accommodation – you’ll be able to check on campsites and hotels – but also a very handy profile of the route as it crosses the country. You’ll be surprised just how flat it is before you arrive in Altdorf.

Any advice you could offer would be much appreciated! I hope what I have written above helps you. I’ll also email you the section of my book (as yet unpublished and which doesn’t appear here on the website) where I talk about cycling from Lucern to Bellinzona. Any feedback on what I have written would be useful and if you happen to know anyone who is a publisher of travel literature, let them read it too!! Good luck with your trip and if you have any further questions, just get in touch. Bon voyage!

Through Or Over The Alps?

Atoosa writes;

I’m really interested in this route and want to start cycling from Milan to
North. I’d like to know how did you pass The Alps? did you go with [the] train?

No I didn’t – I went over the top! You would be doing it in the opposite direction of course but if you followed the same route as me you would cycle from Milan to Como to Bellinzona in Switzerland then up the valley to Airolo, over the Gotthard Pass and down to Andermatt and onwards along Lake Lucerne and northward. I recommend the route; much better than a tunnel! You won’t regret it. Good luck!

Cobbles: Hovis v St Gotthard

Seems such a pity to shunt the picture in the previous post off the top of the blog; I may well fiddle with the dates so that it stays there for a few more days yet. :) Not everything is always as it seems on the blogosphere…

Anyway, a couple of contacts this week; one about the Eurovelo 5, one about the 8. Mary-Anne Coupland commented somewhere below the following;

Hi Andrew,  My friend Sally and I have been planning our trip from Calais to Taranto for about a year and although you weren’t our original inspiration your web page/blog has been our ‘bible’ for many months and you along with Anne Mustoe (also in her 50′s when she cycled round the world) have become our inspiration ! What is the cobbled road bit leading UP to St Gotthard  Pass really like? We are fairly fit, with good bikes and no luggage  but a bit daunted by the busy tunnel we keep hearing about. We don’t want to catch the train if we can avoid it and would rather walk than do that. 7 weeks to go !!

Thanks for that Mary-Anne. The cobbled road up to the top of the Gotthard Pass is really not bad at all. I think in Britain we have an image of a cobbled road being something like the hill from the Hovis advert (I think the bread delivery boy was actually pushing his bike up, no? Update: Yes he was! Here is the picture of him doing so!!) with each individual cobble being a mountain poking up from a sea of little valleys that your wheel has to mount and then descend from many hundred of times a minute. Well it’s not like that at all. The first part of the ride from Andermatt is on the main road along with the cars, caravans, motorbikes etc… You will however, eventually reach a point where the old road is sign-posted and you see the cobbled path leading up the valley in front of you; I took this picture just a few metres into the cobbles themselves. You can see the new road on the left. You can also see how the incline compared to the new road is very different. And if you look very carefully, you will see how the cobbles are actually quite flat (the French word to describe a cobbled road is “pavé” which is actually translated better as “paved” rather than “cobbled”). The relief of getting away from the cars on the road will far outweigh any discomfort riding along the cobbles. In fact, the biggest issue you will have with getting to the top of the St Gotthard Pass will be the bit immediately before arriving in Andermatt. I stayed in Andermatt overnight (there is a make-shift campsite just at the bottom of the ski lift on the far end of the town) and did the climb on the previous day to the cobbles; I would recommend doing the same as if there is going to be any point where your body will be aching it will be when you stop for a well-earned rest in Andermatt. The switch-back road is long, steep & tortuous… And finally, the other thing you may well have to contend with is, of course, the snow. I was travelling in August so there wasn’t really any (just a few clumps of very icy stuff nearer the top), but if you are travelling in May, it may well be a lot more abundant. Good luck and let me know how you get on. Will you be blogging as you cycle?

And the Eurovelo 8? Charles Hedden writes;

I saw from your site that you are planning to do the EV8 path in 2013. I am planning on doing a good part of this path this summer… My plan is to begin in Lisbon and pick up the path at Cadiz following it all the way to Split Croatia. I’d love to share thoughts with you, and if you know anyplace where I can get waypoints or a GPX file, I’d be heavily in your debt.

Sounds like you are at a far more advanced stage in your planning that me Charles! I can’t really help you out any more than point you in the direction of the ECF document that exists (and which I have still to read in any kind of detail!). You may also find something useful on the CTC (Cyclists Touring Club) website. Again, I have yet to look but there is an extensive section devoted to directions, GPX files etc… Let me know how you get on with your planning and good luck on the ride. Same question as above: will you be blogging as you cycle?

East, West & South From Andermatt

Iain Harper has just commented on the previous post and reminded me of his experience in Switzerland in September. I went to look at his pictures of Facebook again and found this one taken at the Oberalppass. Brrrr…. Where is your tent Iain? Ah yes, you stayed in a hotel that night! :) Don’t blame him. The Oberalppass is east of Andermatt - Iain was doing a circular tour in Switzerland and not heading south towards Italy so he didn’t use the Gotthard Pass like me. It does make me wonder what the Gotthard pass would have looked like on the day he took the picture however; it is slightly higher than the Oberalppass and by the looks of it, probably more exposed. So who went west? James Bond of course! I watched Goldfinger when it was on the TV last weekend and looked up the filming locations on IMDB afterwards as I wondered if they had filmed anywhere near where I had cycled in the summer. They had, in Andermatt (the garage where James Bond fills up with petrol and exchanges a few words with Tilly Masterson before road rage kicks in and he cuts up her car, literally). But then they headed west and used the Furka Pass in the Aston Martin DB5 that went at auction for £2.6 million this week.

Peaking

WordPress have revamped the way in which they show the statistics of people visiting the blogs they host, such as www.apsykes.com ! Here is the bar chart that shows the number of visitors per week since March 2010. I love how the chart peaks on week 31; that was the week when I cycled to the top of the St. Gotthard Pass. A few re-Tweets by @mrmarkbeaumont helped as well!

I now need to write something interesting to get my statistics going back uphill again. Or do something interesting and write abou it. Today I will struggle as I am 1. doing some paperwork for school, 2. meeting some friends for coffee at lunchtime, 3. doing more paperwork for school, 4. watching Strictly Come Dancing & the X Factor with a friend. 2 & 4 are nice but probably not worth blogging about! If 1 & 2 are productive, perhaps Sunday may be a promising blogging-firendly day. :)

Map Art Installation

Removing the excess parts of the eleven 1:200,000 maps that cover the entire length of the Eurovelo 5 route allows me to create a (temporary) addition to the living room…. There is a gap between the Saint Gotthard Pass and the Swiss-Italian border; not the place to get to the bottom of a hill and then realise you’ve gone the wrong way!

Cycling from Ireland to Puglia: Update

Remember Rachel McCormack & partner Giovanni who are cycling from Ireland to Puglia for the Irish Cancer Society? They are following a sightly more easterly route than me but it is interesting to see that they used the Saint Gotthard pass to cross the Alps – see the picture (more of them on Facebook). Rachel has sent an update;
Here are some quick facts about how our fund raising mountain bike adventure is going:
- 26 days since we left Dublin
- 8 countries we’ve cycled in: Ireland, Wales, England, The Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland and Italy
- 2143.35km covered so far
- 8hrs 19mins 27sec: longest time spent cycling in one day
- 134hrs 02mins 26sec spent in the saddle over last 26 days
- 6360ft/2090m above sea level: highest level we’ve had to overcome literally which involved
- 3.5hrs of continuous uphill cycling over St Gotthard Pass in the Alps
- countless lattes, cups of tea, bratwursts, doner kebabs and chocolate consumed over last 25 days
- 14 stages left until we reach our destination of Maglie in the very south of Italy
-approx 1,400km still to cycle
but most importantly
- €2310 raised for Cancer Research so a big thank you to all of you who have sponsored us and if you would like to help us reach our target of €3500 for this fantastic cause
you can donate quickly and safely online
Thanks for reading this message and wish us luck!
Rachel and Giovanni
I’m very jealous!

Eurovelo 5 in Italy; La Via dei Pellegrini

Now that my detailed itinerary has hit the Italian border, my efforts need to turn to La Via dei Pellegrini in Italy itself. Regular readers of this blog will know that the Eurovelo 5 cycle route, although often associated with the Via Francigena pilgrim route does not really follow the same path. The Via Francigena is a more-or-less straight line route between Canterbury and Rome; this is logical as when Sigeric and his mates back in the 10th century first walked the route, they were doing it to see the boss in Rome and just like modern-day commuters don’t drive around the countryside en route to work because it is nice and pretty, Sigeric presumably didn’t want to hang around admiring the view. The Via Francigena crosses the Alps at the St. Bernard Pass, the Eurovelo 5 at the Gotthard Pass some 125 kilometres to the east. 

However, in northern Italy, the two paths to Rome do coalesce, or at least they could do. The vague description of the Eurovelo 5 route as written down in the ancient and sacred manuscripts of the European Cyclists’ Federarion become even more vague when they come to Italy (do they think most people will have given up after the strenuous efforts required to pass over the Alps?). I quote; Italy is reached through the Sankt Gotthard Pass. Continue to Chiasso and Como to Lombardy. Northern Italy have several initiatives to build cyclists facilities. Last stage to Rome you follow the national cycle route of “Ciclopista del Sole”. It is not signed yet, but maps and guidebooks are available. It’s nice of them to assume that, despite their own map showing the Eurovelo 5 route continues to Brindisi, they only describe it as far as Rome! In addition, if you compare the Eurovelo map with the map of the Italian Cycle Network, the Eurovelo 5 doesn’t follow the Ciclopista del Sole but the Via dei Pellegrini. So to go back on the previous comment about the two routes – the Via Francigena and Eurovelo 5 joining up – you can see that it is more a case of having the option to join them up. My current thinking is not to follow the Ciclopista del Sole but to follow the Via dei Pellegrini; both pass through Rome but the Pellegrini route takes a more inland path, away from the hoards of tourists on the coast and south of the capital avoids Naples. It also passes through Tuscany and Umbria; regions not to miss. 

So, what do I know about the Via dei Pellegrini? Not much! The following is from the Italian National Cycling Network website; 

 This route is along the old Via Francigena as far as Rome (thus forming part of Eurovelo Route 5). It begins on the Swiss border at Chiasso/Como, then heads for Rome passing through Milan, Parma, Lucca, Siena. From Rome we propose to reach Brindisi (using long stretches of the Via Appia), which for centuries was the port of departure for pilgrims, crusaders and knights leaving for Jerusalem. 

Not too much detail there, but there is also this, in Italian; 

N° 3 – Ciclovia dei Pellegrini (km 2300) Questo itinerario fa riferimento alla via Francigena sia pure nella versione “Eurovelo” fino a Roma. Da Roma si propone il raggiungimento di Brindisi (recuperando lunghi tratti di via Appia) che ha rappresentato per secoli il porto per pellegrini, crociati e cavalieri del tempio diretti a Gerusalemme.
Itinerario: Chiasso, Como, Milano, Lodi, Corte S. Andrea, Piacenza, Parma, Passo della Cisa, Lucca, Siena, Roma, Fiuggi, Frosinone, Cassino, Benevento, Melfi, Gravina, Matera, Taranto, Brindisi.
Risorse: ciclabili dei parchi a nord di Milano e ciclabile dell’Adda fino al Po, viabilità minore in provincia di Parma e in Lunigiana fino ad Aulla. Progetto finanziato Siena-Buonconvento, ciclabile del Tevere a Roma, Appia antica.
Sedimi ferroviari: Carrara-Avenza, Lucca-Bientina-Pontedera, Roma-Fiuggi.
Su questa direttrice si innestano altri tracciati in qualche modo legati a percorsi “Romei” da nord-ovest: in particolare le direttrice cosiddetta di Sigerico ovvero Aosta, Vercelli, Corte Sant’Andrea, ma importante è una via che dal Moncenisio attraversa Piemonte e Liguria per unirsi all’itinerario principale a Sarzana-Luni.
 

 A little bit  more detail there; a few more towns mentioned – I’ll update my Google Map accordingly – and a little bit of advice as to which bits are more cyclable than others…. More research needed.

The Short and (Extremely) Winding Road

I think this is the southern side of the Gotthard Pass so I will be cycling down it rather than up!

Cobble(r)s!

In a comment to the previous post about the St. Gotthard Pass, William, chair of the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Rome points out diplomatically “You know that is a picture of the Great St Bernard Pass of course”. Well, in all honesty, I think I got distracted by the bike and thought I was posting a picture of the St. Gotthard Pass. The sign is a bit of a giveaway however…. I hopefully redeem myself with this striking picture of the cobbles near the top of the St. Gotthard Pass and just part of a wheel!